O.R.D. 4" Lift

[WARWAG]

For a temp mount I was going to fab up a carrier just inside the bed behind the driver. But time ran out. So I will be replacing my tailgate with a new gate of my design to carry the tire,two german fuel cans, HiLift and shuvel. That will have to wait until I get back off from work again in another two months.

 

[twomorestrokes]

For a temp mount I was going to fab upm a carrier just inside the bed behind the driver.

That's my plan.

 

[WARWAG]

Today I ordered a sway bar disconnect kit as well as new steering stabilizer from O.R.D. as mine is beyond shot. I cant tell its shot when im driving but took it off and it just slides back and forth with no resistance of ANY kind. I am still amazed at what a diffrence my truck feels with the Off Road Design lift! Its like a factory new truck! I will let you know if the new steering stabilizer makes a diffrence in the feel of the truck.

 

[WARWAG]

That's my plan.

Sent PM for tire info.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Sent PM for tire info.

Got it Mike. Thanks!

 

[WARWAG]

No problem.

 

[WARWAG]

Finally had a bit of time off and back home to get the Swaybar correction and disconnect kit installed (three weeks ago). I also ordered a new steering stabilizer and bump stops to round off the suspension build. Total time to install the sway bar disconnect/correction kit was about 30 minutes from start to finish. Super simple. The results are pretty nice. I replaced all of the bushings as well. After that The steering stabilzer went on. Ten minutes later the new bump stops were ready for some serious hits if needed. Everything I purchased was from Off Road Designs. I am very happy with there products and everything was delivered on time and well packed.

 

[twomorestrokes]

The sway bar disconnect kit is a pretty cool setup. However, once I disconnected the bar I've never gone through the trouble of hooking it back up. I really can't feel much of a difference.

 

[Sharecropper]

If you plan to install cross-over steering, you will need to take the stabilizer off completely because there's not enough clearance for both of 'em.

 

[WARWAG]

I do plan to do the cross over steering but not until I rebuild both axles with OX lockers and 3.73 gears not to mention all new bearings, chromoly axles and 35 spline stub shafts and new king pins. Im also thinking the new YUKON selectable hubs.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Is the 6.2 gonna have enough umph to push the truck with 37" tires and 3.73 gears? That will put your new effective ratio at 3.13:1. If you leave the 4.56's in with the 37" tires, the new effective ratio is just over the 3.73:1 target. (3.82:1)

Found this on a Superlift gearing/ tire size website:

The chart is divided into three categories. The rpm highlighted in black are optimum for the tire size and ratio combination. These will most closely give you the best overall drivability. If you're looking for a ratio that will give better fuel economy for highway driving at the expense of some acceleration and overall performance, choose a ratio in the yellow shaded area. If you're looking for a ratio that will improve acceleration and towing power at the expense of some fuel economy, choose a ratio in the blue shaded area.

 

[WARWAG]

The truck will do just fine after my Banks Kit is installed I believe. I also have a few more plans but as plans go they tend to change over time.

 

[WARWAG]

Future plans include either a built up 700R4 or 4L80E either one will be from PATC transmissions out of Louisiana. They build some of the best transmissions out there. I like the 700R4 for its lower first gear 3.06 and its .70 over drive. The 4L80E is built tough through and through but have a low over drive of .75 and the same first gear ratio as the TH400 2.48. You can go with a manual shift conversion or add a transmission comp that does the shifting. The lower O.D. taller first and computer control unit of the 4L80E are negatives in my book as well as costing more. I am still leaning towards the 700R4. Mate to that Off Road Designs Magnum Box 4 speed Planetary gear box that weighs only 34 pounds and is 6" long. It mates to the back of either a TH400, 700R4 or a 4L80E. To that you bolt on a NP205 transfer case. The 4 speed planetary reduction box gives you 4 ratios to choose from 1:1 2:1 2.72:1 and 5.33:1 You can twin stick the NP205 as well.

 

[Whitfield]

Is the 6.2 gonna have enough umph to push the truck with 37" tires and 3.73 gears? That will put your new effective ratio at 3.13:1. If you leave the 4.56's in with the 37" tires, the new effective ratio is just over the 3.73:1 target. (3.82:1)

Found this on a Superlift gearing/ tire size website:

The chart is divided into three categories. The rpm highlighted in black are optimum for the tire size and ratio combination. These will most closely give you the best overall drivability. If you're looking for a ratio that will give better fuel economy for highway driving at the expense of some acceleration and overall performance, choose a ratio in the yellow shaded area. If you're looking for a ratio that will improve acceleration and towing power at the expense of some fuel economy, choose a ratio in the blue shaded area.

Looks like this cart is based off of the RPM / power curve for a gas motor . CUCV Diesel torque curve "SWEET SPOT" is gonna be at a lower RPM (2200 I think I read). Not sure what they are doing for newer trucks with OD transmission. The old charts of the 80's calculated with the old 1:1 top transmission gear.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Very possible. While my truck is MUCH more drivable now in an unloaded condition, it loses lots of speed on hills with just a 17' boat behind it. I'd really have to be in the throttle with any less gearing. Unloaded, it seems to like it best between 60-65 mph. I'm curious how it's going to pull my 23' enclosed trailer with 3 sleds inside. The campers used to complain a lot at the dealership about how their turbo 6.2s would struggle getting their weekend quarters up the grades.

 

[Whitfield]

Big thanks War Wagon!!!

My fresh 37" BAJA TA's come in Monday and I will place my order with ORD then. How is your truck managing with drive shaft length and pinion angle? Any noticeable shackle flip / pinion angle related drive line vibes.

Also how is the dropped pitman arm working out? Tolerable? I know crossover steering is king but as with everyone else my budget calls for dropped pitman arm for now.

 

[Whitfield]

Twomorestrokes,
Big thanks for the RPM numbers on the 37's. Hoping my 08 on 37's will be ok with the 21' ski boat and the 10k equipment trailer. Were those 6.2 Turbo Campers running 4.56 gears? Fortunately I'm coastal so I've gotta drive 100 miles to find a good hwy speed down shift grade.

60-65 will be right in where I need to be on my 35 mile daily hwy commute. What are your thoughts on the ZERO RATES. Like?

Did you use your ZERO RATES to offset the front axle any?
If so, Was front drive shaft length correction necessary?

 

[WARWAG]

Big thanks War Wagon!!!

My fresh 37" BAJA TA's come in Monday and I will place my order with ORD then. How is your truck managing with drive shaft length and pinion angle? Any noticeable shackle flip / pinion angle related drive line vibes.

Also how is the dropped pitman arm working out? Tolerable? I know crossover steering is king but as with everyone else my budget calls for dropped pitman arm for now.

I have ZERO driveline vibrations with the 4" ORD lift. My drive shafts did not need any lengthening either. If you go with the tuff country shocks then the right rear rear shock mount will need to be raised a bit so the body clears the axle tube. The rear axle basically rotates back with the shackle flip. Just enough so the right rear mount just needs to be moved up a bit. If you go with the Bilstien shocks then I believe you wont need to move the mount up. The correct drop pitman arm works great!

 

[twomorestrokes]

Twomorestrokes,
Big thanks for the RPM numbers on the 37's. Hoping my 08 on 37's will be ok with the 21' ski boat and the 10k equipment trailer. Were those 6.2 Turbo Campers running 4.56 gears? Fortunately I'm coastal so I've gotta drive 100 miles to find a good hwy speed down shift grade.

60-65 will be right in where I need to be on my 35 mile daily hwy commute. What are your thoughts on the ZERO RATES. Like?

Did you use your ZERO RATES to offset the front axle any?
If so, Was front drive shaft length correction necessary?

Don't remember what their gear ratios were but they were mostly stock trucks with factory tire sizes. Just making the point that these trucks have good low end torque but are far from a powerhouse at road speed. If I don't drop below 55 on grades with the boat I'm doing good. There are some good hills on the way to the lake. However, the truck is awesome in low lock toting a heaping load of logs out of the dried swamp on a really steep hill.

I used zero rates on the front to move my axle forward 1". Front shaft is fine with no modifications. I still need a set on the rear to move the rear axle back 1 1/2" to center the wheels in the opening. I was waiting a while so I could evaluate the factory springs. I was originally planning on removing a few leafs for a better unloaded ride and better articulation, but after seeing how much wood this thing will haul without much sag at all, I think I may keep the spring pack as is. My 2500HD sagged more than this with the Air Lift bags pumped up to 100 PSI and only a 6' box to fit the wood in.

Warwag, sorry for jacking your thread.

 

[Whitfield]

WarWag, Thanks for the tip on the passenger shock mount. I'll have the torch and mig welder ready. Also ~ How well is your rear axle centered with the Shackle flip? Is the need to move the back axle rearward centering it in the wheel well common on M1008's?

With other make trucks we have moved / re-drilled the centering hole forward or rearward to center the axle in the wheel well. I have not looked at viability of re-drilling the axle perch and upper spring clamp plate on the M1008 yet. Zero rate may still be the best option. AND Centering the axle (Moving it rearward 1.5") should give just enough drive line spacing for a 4L80e Overdrive transmission with no custom rear drive shaft mods.