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Thanks Mark, I'll be sure to inquire on my next failed part, it's bound to happen soon. Luckily a new one was only $30 shipped.
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Operation "URGENT RESTORATION"
- Thread starter m38inmaine
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New solenoid arrived today, installed and passed the spin test. Next wrestle that beast in it's tight little corner, not an easy task as it's a precision fit in the bell housing. The other challenge is reaching the third bolt between the block and starter. I can't imagine changing one out with the engine in.
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That's what I said as I was taking mine out sitting on the shop floor.
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A few more things accomplished today, installed secondary fuel filter spin on adaptor, spin on oil filter adaptor and air cleaner gage. Also removed and cleaned the intake screen for the bilge pump. It was caked solid with grease a debris from the air box drain tube puking on it since 1970. Ordered the spin on primary adaptor, just waiting for it to arrive.
These adaptors can be had quite a bit cheaper than the "kit" offered on the e site. Secondary Fram K3327, Primary K3326 and oil Fram K3390. These will cross to other numbers but the Fram brand uses the same fittings and a direct bolt on replacement.
These adaptors can be had quite a bit cheaper than the "kit" offered on the e site. Secondary Fram K3327, Primary K3326 and oil Fram K3390. These will cross to other numbers but the Fram brand uses the same fittings and a direct bolt on replacement.
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wsucougarx
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Were you able to find the correct ferrule for the hard line? I went down to NAPA and just got a blank stare.
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Yes, I purchased them from Royal Brass & Hose when I had them make the flexible lines for the carrier. I made my own hard lines and used the nuts/ferrules I purchased from them.
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wsucougarx
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Is there a particular part number assigned to them. I need to get a set. Are they a direct replacement for the govt ones?
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No part numbers, just tell them you are using 1/4" steel tubing. Yes, they were a direct replacement. I used them to connect to the existing lines.
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A while back I dropped off my radiator at the radiator shop to have it cleaned/tested. I received a call from the shop and the radiator core is rotten and has to be replaced. I was quoted $450 for the work so I decided to wait. Some time back Saturn was selling new radiators for $220 or so and I gave them a call, of course they were sold out. I recall some members here receiving damaged ones so I inquired if they had gotten them back. They did and were willing to sell one as is for $75.00. So I bought it and it arrived Friday, I was very pleased to see very minimal damage, the worst being one of the outlets pushed in a bit. I'll take this to the shop and have them repair it, much cheaper than a re-core.
I was short one top bow support so I decided to make a new pair of them. It is 5/8 od tubing, I ordered it from Aircraft Spruce, they have a lot of tubing to choose from. Both ends are flattened, one end has a 3/8 hole, the other a 3/8 pin with a cotter pin hole cross drilled. Simple enough to make, impossible to find new/used.
Next since I was not having much luck with the electrical components working I decided to replace the starter relay, found them for $10 shipped so it was cheap insurance.
I was short one top bow support so I decided to make a new pair of them. It is 5/8 od tubing, I ordered it from Aircraft Spruce, they have a lot of tubing to choose from. Both ends are flattened, one end has a 3/8 hole, the other a 3/8 pin with a cotter pin hole cross drilled. Simple enough to make, impossible to find new/used.
Next since I was not having much luck with the electrical components working I decided to replace the starter relay, found them for $10 shipped so it was cheap insurance.
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wsucougarx
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Any chance you can post some pics of the original bow with measurements? I'm going to have to make some bows. However mine will need to be at the same heigth level as the cab so she can fit in the garage.
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I talked to a guy today about buying mine and one of his concerns was the cab top bows. Are these something you think a person could fab if they weren't that interested in originality? I never really thought about it myself as I wanted an original set because that's just the way I am. He seemed more interested in just have a top on it.
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They could easily be made and you would never be able to tell. These are of very simple construction, easily as in how they are constructed. It still will take fab time and sourcing materials to make them. Once my goat is up and running I would be willing to make some. Shipping cost would be high as they are an oversize item but they can ship.
There was a member from FL on here that was restoring a goat and in his pictures it looked like he had extra bows, it may take some time to go back through the old threads to find him.
There was a member from FL on here that was restoring a goat and in his pictures it looked like he had extra bows, it may take some time to go back through the old threads to find him.
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Not wanting to pay $95+ for a new engine stop cable I found a 9' generic heavy duty cable at NAPA. I had the handle from my broken cable so I drilled/tapped two 8/32 set screw holes in the side of the old handle, removed the new handle by cutting it off with a cutoff wheel. Slid the old handle on and drilled detents onto the new shaft for a secure fit. Loctited the set screws and it's ready to install for 1/3 of the price.
Pulled the fuel tank strainer and neck from both tanks, as mentioned in the pms manual they were covered in white gunk. Cleaned them with a brush, sand blasted them then painted with fuel tank sealer. I have one tank off ready to clean the interior.
Started on the brakes to see what condition they were in. Pulled the front left and it was nice and clean but had some grease on the shoes from a sloppy wheel bearing service. Since I had a few(4)parts hubs I pulled one apart and it had nice clean shoes so I used those. The wheel cylinder looked new, no water just dot 5 but it was stuck so I replaced it with a new one. 1 done and 5 to go, next one back same issue greasy pads, went to the spare hubs and no joy, one filled with rusty water, one brake fluid and the third mega grease. So it looks like some shoes will be needed. So as usual some progress and still lots more to do.
Pulled the fuel tank strainer and neck from both tanks, as mentioned in the pms manual they were covered in white gunk. Cleaned them with a brush, sand blasted them then painted with fuel tank sealer. I have one tank off ready to clean the interior.
Started on the brakes to see what condition they were in. Pulled the front left and it was nice and clean but had some grease on the shoes from a sloppy wheel bearing service. Since I had a few(4)parts hubs I pulled one apart and it had nice clean shoes so I used those. The wheel cylinder looked new, no water just dot 5 but it was stuck so I replaced it with a new one. 1 done and 5 to go, next one back same issue greasy pads, went to the spare hubs and no joy, one filled with rusty water, one brake fluid and the third mega grease. So it looks like some shoes will be needed. So as usual some progress and still lots more to do.
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wsucougarx
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Great idea on the engine stop cable!
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Pulled the remaining drums, found one more set of clean shoes, good news. The bad, right carrier had a pint of dot 5 in it, RH rear tractor had self destructed shoe, the missing pad section was turned into powder and it scored the drum pretty well. Plenty of extra drums so not a problem. The carrier spindles/bearing seem sloppy so I will probably swap out the whole hub from the spare carrier. Not sure if I am making progress or creating more work for myself.
A tip, save your rubber plugs out of the new wheel cylinders to use as plugs for the hub brake line port, keeps fluid from drooling out while working on the brakes.
A tip, save your rubber plugs out of the new wheel cylinders to use as plugs for the hub brake line port, keeps fluid from drooling out while working on the brakes.
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combat32
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That one looks like doo doo, haven't opened mine up yet, expect the worst and hope for the best.
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Yup, the gift that just keeps on giving. When you crack the drum seal you never know what you are going to get, stale air, water, brake fluid, grease or asbestos dust.
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More work accomplished on the brakes today. Now have the two carrier brake assemblies installed. The RH side had a loose wheel bearing so I took it apart and serviced the bearings, seals looked fine.
Took apart and cleaned the remaining 4 backing plates, and installed new wheel cylinders. When installing new cylinders check the inside of them for rust, even though they are new(1985). One of mine had some "flash" rust, a quick rub with some 600 grit paper and all is good. Next I removed all the old shoe linings, tomorrow the new linings should arrive. I looked into having them lined but the cost averaged $25 per shoe, a bit too much. I can line the 4 sets myself for about $75, and the satisfaction of doing it myself. All but one wheel cylinder was rusted solid, a good brake service is a must if these have been sitting around long.
Took apart and cleaned the remaining 4 backing plates, and installed new wheel cylinders. When installing new cylinders check the inside of them for rust, even though they are new(1985). One of mine had some "flash" rust, a quick rub with some 600 grit paper and all is good. Next I removed all the old shoe linings, tomorrow the new linings should arrive. I looked into having them lined but the cost averaged $25 per shoe, a bit too much. I can line the 4 sets myself for about $75, and the satisfaction of doing it myself. All but one wheel cylinder was rusted solid, a good brake service is a must if these have been sitting around long.
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wsucougarx
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Looking great! I'm right there with you. I bled the cylinders and I'm going to postpone putting the hub's on for a couple days to check for leaks. I'd rather see leaks without putting the hub's on so save on cleaning.
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Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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My plan as well, I am going to strap the shoes and bleed them with the drums off so I can check for leaks.