Operation "URGENT RESTORATION"

[mkcoen]

Glad it works well. I don't know why I didn't think to drop a tube of the cornhead grease in the box for you. I have a case of it and doubt I'll use that much in a lifetime.

 

[m38inmaine]

Last few days I have been working on replacing the front main wiring harness. Mine was pretty tore up during the de mill crunch. I decided to splice it just ahead of the transfer case. It was 14 wires, I did not cut the main power cable as it was fine. I used seamless butt connectors and adhesive lined shrink tube for the splice. I changed out the abrasive in my blast cabinet to a plastic media and cleaned all the connectors before I spliced in the harness. Took a few pictures of the wire piles for Mark to admire. I also hooked up some test leads and a battery to the carrier stop light and it works!

 

[m38inmaine]

Could not let Mark have all the fun so I pulled my radiator as well, will send it out for a good clean and leak check. Also pulled the accelerator pedal and freed it up so it pivots easily. Removed the clutch cross shaft and cleaned it as well, it was quite gummy with old grease.

 

[mkcoen]

I see where my problem was now, I didn't take the Goat completely apart to get the radiator out. Next time I'll know

 

[turnkey]

Starting look like that old commercial parts is parts....Nice job so far.

 

[m38inmaine]

More parts progress, blackout taillights, instrument spacer and wiper motors. The spacer was a challenge as it was in the path of the crunch monster.

 

[m38inmaine]

Last couple of days I have been working on the steering system. I soaked the carrier steering access cover for a week or so and it would not budge. I knew if I tried to turn it too hard the 3/4 hub would split. So I had no choice but to take all the screws out, I figured I was in for a day of drilling and replacing riv nuts. To my surprise they all just turned right out like they were put in yesterday. Now I thought I had it licked but I would pay for my victory.
I took the fill plug out and it looked nice and clean inside so I started filling it with oil, filling, filling ..... I thought man this is taking a lot of oil. I looked underneath and it was just running out around the bottom output shaft. So I took the steering box out, not a bad job at all, and discovered the output shaft was very, very loose like it had no bushings at all and the seal was blown out big time. So now off to the parts carrier, the cover was already off, the one I sent to Tom so that was done. Took the fill plug out and I could see oil, that's good. No sign of leaking underneath so I took it out, not as easy as the first but not bad. No movement on the shaft so I blasted and primed it.
Now while the primer was drying I went to the steering wheel, had a NOS steering column and a recently received 900 series 5 ton wheel. Bill in KY and I were talking about trying it as we liked the looks of the new style wheel. The wheel went right on and it fits perfectly. I had to nip off the end of the original horn wire and the new horn button, spliced the wire together, shrink tube and assemble. Testing with the multi meter and the horn circuit works fine.
A couple of things to note, in an older thread it was asked if the rear box just spun around with no stop. The input shaft rotates 6.5 turns and stops, so be sure to center it when replacing one. I also found a part number on the output seal on the rear steering box NATIONAL 240480.

 

[combat32]

Good work Mark

 

[BillIdaho]

So a 900 series steering wheel bolts right on, and is close to the original size? Mine is shot, and I am in dire need of a replacement.

 

[combat32]

Yep, may upgrade mine too, I had one on my deuce.

 

[m38inmaine]

Yes, it's a 18" wheel. There is a seller on the big "E" that has 2 or 3 NOS original style wheels at a good price. All they are is standard 5 ton 18" steering wheels.

 

[m38inmaine]

Today after work I installed the rear steering box and pintle hitch. I finished the top bows and am only missing one rod for it to be complete. The decal for the dash panel arrived today so that is finished. I have the tow bar feet I needed to hook the towbar to the goat so my next project is to get it out and rock it back and forth to see if the engine will free up.

 

[quarkz]

Nice pics, especially the rear steering box. I have only seen the box through the service hole in the access plate.

Good luck on rocking the engine free.

 

[m38inmaine]

Thanks, I checked the rear window on my hard top and it is cracked right down the center. Of all the glass on it the one you needed is broken of course. It's just 1/4" safety glass, any auto glass shop can make and install one quite easily. I am not going to use the top so if you need any other parts let me know and I will check.

 

[quarkz]

Thanx for taking the time to check the glass out. I was planning to go the glass shop route. Just have to remove the back panel. I had the local glass shop make up the 4 sliding windows in the doors.

 

[mkcoen]

Today after work I installed the rear steering box and pintle hitch. I finished the top bows and am only missing one rod for it to be complete. The decal for the dash panel arrived today so that is finished. I have the tow bar feet I needed to hook the towbar to the goat so my next project is to get it out and rock it back and forth to see if the engine will free up.

Looking good! I just got back from quarkz's neck of the woods (actually N. ID but close enough). Can't hardly breathe up there with all the smoke from the forest fires.

Good luck on the engine rocking. I've got to spend the next couple of days finding a shop that can overhaul my engine. I've got until the end of Oct to get it done so I can do the Ft Hood Trail Ride.

 

[m38inmaine]

Pulled the goat out today on the tow bar to try and rock the engine free, tried for 20 minutes or so. Saw a micro movement of the crankshaft pulley but that was it. If I pulled it too hard it just slipped the clutch, so it appears to be stuck pretty well. So the build just got that much more involved. I will have to pull the engine and see what needs replacing. No real way to access the oil pan unless you take the engine out to do a re-sleeve.

 

[quarkz]

That just sux. Did you soak the cylinder and crank case with lots of kroil, kerosene, or sea foam. Unless you really want to pull the power pack, I would soak, set it in the sun, wiggle it a little bit. Lather, rinse, repeat. Not really rinse, just let sit, wiggle, sit and see if you get any advancement.

Question: If you pop the top to reserve, do the pistons & sleeve become loose and move some? Might be a way to tell which cylinder is stuck or if it is a bearing.

Sorry for the additional weekend project.

 

[m38inmaine]

I took the injectors out and poured Kroil in several times over two weeks. If that did not free it up than there is something wrong that needs attention. Not too hard to pull the power pack, just more work and $$$$ for parts.

 

[combat32]

Sorry to hear that Mark.