publicenema
Member
- 33
- 26
- 16
- Location
- Ottawa, On, Canada
I have the parts catalogue.I have entered these part numbers on the Polaris site and get no info. Do you have access to the Polaris Defense site?
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I have the parts catalogue.I have entered these part numbers on the Polaris site and get no info. Do you have access to the Polaris Defense site?
Just ordered one. Slim chance, but hoping the engine fault codes for these machines in in it. If not, I'm sure its helpful in other ways
So, thanks to publicenema and the help of others on here, my MRZR is running very well. Turns out that the relay/fuse configuration diagram he first uploaded was incorrect, even though this more detailed diagram (he sent me) has the needed slots filled and is correct, and from the same manualView attachment 930281. I also replaced two automatic resetting breakers with actual fuses that I could see if blown. That alone got rid of one code, then following this second diagram made the second code go away and got it out of limp mode. Hope my hard time getting this figured out and the help I received here helps anyone else that has an electrical nightmare from fusebox mayhem.
Only used on the 2017 and 2018 up MRZR D4's. Your Polaris dealer will not sell you one. If you can't find it on eBay, I can get you one but it'll take a while.Does anyone know the crossover for the gear selector cable/shift cable? The part number is 7082139 but our local Polaris dealer
says they show it as a military issue and can't cross it over.
Are you attempting to start it with the blackout switch on (all lighting disabled)?Anyone seen an issue where the engine won’t start until after you press the brake pedal about 20-40 times? when I push the brake pedal to start, you hear a click in the engine bay, brake pedal has to be depressed to start by design, and while I hear the click each time, it won’t start unless i do a rain dance of sorts….
After the engine is started and driven it’s fine for awhile and but eventually starte all over…
the engine doesn’t crank, nothing to do with a dead spot in the starter, it’s as if the truck is being started in gear or like a bad neutral start switch.Are you attempting to start it with the blackout switch on (all lighting disabled)?
If you're hearing a clicking from the starter solenoid, then it's likely a dead spot in the starter. I would check voltage at starter B+ when cranking and go from there.
Yes, the starter may click but the starter motor may have a dead spot in it. Since you hear a click (from the engine I assume, and not the power distribution box) I would assume all is functioning as intended and it sounds like your starter is on it's way out.the engine doesn’t crank, nothing to do with a dead spot in the starter, it’s as if the truck is being started in gear or like a bad neutral start switch.
if you leave the key in “start” and push the brake pedal, you hear a click, like activating
a switch of some sort, the engine won’t start unless the brake is depressed by design, in park or in neutral.
The unit needs to see brake light input to crank, and with the way they set it up on my 2013 the blackout functionality messes around with that, it would not crank if I had blackout engaged. I never looked into it as I assumed that was by design.How would the blackout switch affect starting?
Very nice, mine's a 2013 gasser. Any branding or marking on the black rim you have? Looks like a suitable alternative to the tan ones which are unobtanium now.Not a D4, but a 2014 gasser.
Let the restoration begin!
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