• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Polaris MRZR-D4

gottaluvit

gottaluvit

Well-known member
1,786
28
48
Location
Bethesda, OH (AKA: Flyover Country)
So, thanks to publicenema and the help of others on here, my MRZR is running very well. Turns out that the relay/fuse configuration diagram he first uploaded was incorrect, even though this more detailed diagram (he sent me) has the needed slots filled and is correct, and from the same manualIMG_20240825_124318.jpg. I also replaced two automatic resetting breakers with actual fuses that I could see if blown. That alone got rid of one code, then following this second diagram made the second code go away and got it out of limp mode. Hope my hard time getting this figured out and the help I received here helps anyone else that has an electrical nightmare from fusebox mayhem.
 
Last edited:
gottaluvit

gottaluvit

Well-known member
1,786
28
48
Location
Bethesda, OH (AKA: Flyover Country)
gottaluvit said:
So, thanks to publicenema and the help of others on here, my MRZR is running very well. Turns out that the relay/fuse configuration diagram he first uploaded was incorrect, even though this more detailed diagram (he sent me) has the needed slots filled and is correct, and from the same manualView attachment 930281. I also replaced two automatic resetting breakers with actual fuses that I could see if blown. That alone got rid of one code, then following this second diagram made the second code go away and got it out of limp mode. Hope my hard time getting this figured out and the help I received here helps anyone else that has an electrical nightmare from fusebox mayhem.
Click to expand...
 
B

Bsuit

New member
1
1
3
Location
Tennessee
Does anyone know the crossover for the gear selector cable/shift cable? The part number is 7082139 but our local Polaris dealer
says they show it as a military issue and can't cross it over.
 
Retiredwarhorses

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,414
4,207
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Anyone seen an issue where the engine won’t start until after you press the brake pedal about 20-40 times? when I push the brake pedal to start, you hear a click in the engine bay, brake pedal has to be depressed to start by design, and while I hear the click each time, it won’t start unless i do a rain dance of sorts….
After the engine is started and driven it’s fine for awhile and but eventually starte all over…
 
P

publicenema

Member
34
27
16
Location
Ottawa, On, Canada
Retiredwarhorses said:
Anyone seen an issue where the engine won’t start until after you press the brake pedal about 20-40 times? when I push the brake pedal to start, you hear a click in the engine bay, brake pedal has to be depressed to start by design, and while I hear the click each time, it won’t start unless i do a rain dance of sorts….
After the engine is started and driven it’s fine for awhile and but eventually starte all over…
Click to expand...
Are you attempting to start it with the blackout switch on (all lighting disabled)?

If you're hearing a clicking from the starter solenoid, then it's likely a dead spot in the starter. I would check voltage at starter B+ when cranking and go from there.
 
Retiredwarhorses

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,414
4,207
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
publicenema said:
Are you attempting to start it with the blackout switch on (all lighting disabled)?

If you're hearing a clicking from the starter solenoid, then it's likely a dead spot in the starter. I would check voltage at starter B+ when cranking and go from there.
Click to expand...
the engine doesn’t crank, nothing to do with a dead spot in the starter, it’s as if the truck is being started in gear or like a bad neutral start switch.
if you leave the key in “start” and push the brake pedal, you hear a click, like activating
a switch of some sort, the engine won’t start unless the brake is depressed by design, in park or in neutral.
How would the blackout switch affect starting?
 
P

publicenema

Member
34
27
16
Location
Ottawa, On, Canada
Retiredwarhorses said:
the engine doesn’t crank, nothing to do with a dead spot in the starter, it’s as if the truck is being started in gear or like a bad neutral start switch.
if you leave the key in “start” and push the brake pedal, you hear a click, like activating
a switch of some sort, the engine won’t start unless the brake is depressed by design, in park or in neutral.
Click to expand...
Yes, the starter may click but the starter motor may have a dead spot in it. Since you hear a click (from the engine I assume, and not the power distribution box) I would assume all is functioning as intended and it sounds like your starter is on it's way out.

Retiredwarhorses said:
How would the blackout switch affect starting?
Click to expand...
The unit needs to see brake light input to crank, and with the way they set it up on my 2013 the blackout functionality messes around with that, it would not crank if I had blackout engaged. I never looked into it as I assumed that was by design.
 
A

aceecaus

New member
27
19
3
Location
Republic of Texas
publicenema said:
Very nice, mine's a 2013 gasser. Any branding or marking on the black rim you have? Looks like a suitable alternative to the tan ones which are unobtanium now.
Click to expand...
It's a factory rim, it's just painted black for whatever reason. I have one spare and the factory carrier that goes with it as well. I am always on the lookout for more, though.
 
P

publicenema

Member
34
27
16
Location
Ottawa, On, Canada
aceecaus said:
It's a factory rim, it's just painted black for whatever reason. I have one spare and the factory carrier that goes with it as well. I am always on the lookout for more, though.
Click to expand...
Good luck, that particular rim style was discontinued when they switched to the diesels. On the bright side, the diesel rim specifications are exactly the same. Unfortunately, nothing else in the aftermarket is a 100% match
 
A

aceecaus

New member
27
19
3
Location
Republic of Texas
Not much to report as we took a break for the holidays, but got most of the front done. Still waiting for the shocks to be rebuilt. Need to clean the radiator, but we're working on the back now.







 
Last edited:
A

aceecaus

New member
27
19
3
Location
Republic of Texas
Let the sanding begin!

All of the plastics are finished and starting on all of the metal. No cracks in the plastic, only a couple of deep grooves, which we fixed.

The shocks have been rebuilt and a 2 stage spring kit has been added (shout out to Shock Therapy (the second set they have done for me)). The shocks were totally shot, and each were completely rebuilt and all of the shafts had to be replaced due to erosion and rust on the chrome on them. Looking forward to seeing them. The spring kit for it is custom for the weight of the machine, the proposed load out, and occasional overload. If they're like the last set, it will be a HUGE improvement!

They will be here Saturday, at which time we can install and wheel this beast outside and lay everything out to spray.

Weather has been hit or miss here, so if it rains, we wait another day (same with the cold), but it looks like it will be good weather for the next week or so.









 
You must log in or register to reply here.
111,175members
165,488threads
2,328,762posts
952online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks