Project Wild Weasel M1009

[cucvrus]

As much as I wanted to slack off, I just couldn’t do it. It wasn’t raining and it was fairly comfortable, so I aligned the front-end sheet metal and doors. The doors were fairly easy the driver's door I had to remove and loosen the bottom hinge on the cab. The door had 4 bolts tight, and the others were rusty and 3 were metric and loose. I dug and found a few correct bolts greased the threads and ran them in. They are self-tapping bolts, so they done their job as designed. The right fender required a few shims and a correct greased bolt to be run in the bottom of the fender. I also adjusted the core support right to left and tightened that down with all new hardware. After I get the hood cable attached to the latch, I will adjust the back of the hood. It seems a bit high at the cowl. All in a day's work and I am done for the day. The sun went down on me and the outside light came on. Today is over for me. Take Care and Be Safe. 

 

[CARC686]

Are the doors pretty heavy? Considering doing the pins in my driver door after seeing how easily the passenger door closes.

 

[cucvrus]

The doors are not heavy. One man can R & R a door. It works out better to have a helper. You really only need to hold the full weight of the door for a short time. After the first bolt is in you can relax a bit and getting the last bolt out gives you the full weight really quick. I always remove and install the top bolt first. Good Luck. Make sure the pins and bronze bushings are greased/oiled a bit when driving them in.

 

[cucvrus]

Some before alignment and after alignment pictures of the doors and front end sheet metal

Right side before . And after
Left side before
After
Not the best pictures but many bolts were not tight and shims were just there even where not needed.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Doors look pretty good, or is the paint disguising the actual conditions?

 

[WWRD99]

Lining up doors takes some time and patience but once they're set they look and close easy...r.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[cucvrus]

I have the front axle knuckles back on and have slid in the axles after the picture.
The shock absorbers are a one size fits all. I am still not a fan of lift kits. The steel bushing must be installed into the grommets of the shocks and there are also spacers no it allows room for error.
The instructions are printed on a clear plastic bag with the bushings and spacer.
I think I have it right. Next, I want to get the shocks on the truck but need to find some new bolts in 1/2” grade 8. The lightbulb in the sky went out and things got dark and cold fast. Have a Great Day

 

[cucvrus]

In my last post on this thread I mentioned my deep hatred of lift kits and one size fits all parts. Here we go. The shock bushing sleeves came in a bag assorted sizes. Well ain’t that special? None of them were the same as the OEM sleeves. I dug out the old shocks and pressed the sleeve out of the bushings.[

That looks a bit different to me. I could have just squeezed them brackets together when tightening the top shock bolt. Not going to happen.
The old shock served a great organ donor.
Ready to install
That’s enough for one night. Tomorrow after work weather permit I want to get the front end back together. This M1009 was missing the starter support bracket. That’s a common issue. Must be that hard to put on. Change a starter on Chevette diesel if you like hard. Or a BMW. Take Care and Br Safe.

 

[Mullaney]

In my last post on this thread I mentioned my deep hatred of lift kits and one size fits all parts. Here we go. The shock bushing sleeves came in a bag assorted sizes. Well ain’t that special? None of them were the same as the OEM sleeves. I dug out the old shocks and pressed the sleeve out of the bushings.[
View attachment 909136
That looks a bit different to me. I could have just squeezed them brackets together when tightening the top shock bolt. Not going to happen. View attachment 909137
The old shock served a great organ donor.View attachment 909138
Ready to installView attachment 909139
That’s enough for one night. Tomorrow after work weather permit I want to get the front end back together. This M1009 was missing the starter support bracket. That’s a common issue. Must be that hard to put on. Change a starter on Chevette diesel if you like hard. Or a BMW. Take Care and Br Safe.

.
Looking awful good.
Almost seems like you can see the end of the running gear work.

Stock / Factory without "rigging' is definitely a plus - and I'm proud to know you for it!

.

 

[cucvrus]

I needed a lift kit for the M1009.
It was too low for me to install the hubs and steering linkage. This should work.
I know we all see these seals in the axle spindle areas but most times they are neglected and not replaced. I have new ones and cleaned and will re-grease the spindle bearings.
Now to make it fun in the unseasonal Pennsylvania fall weather. Be Safe and Take Care. I will post my progress later.

 

[cucvrus]

I noticed that the left axle was missing the nylon space out where the spindle seal is seated . No problem I had a few on junk parts axles.

 

[cucvrus]

And it is coming together outside in the nice weather. Still very dirty work but it is the hobby I choose.
More progress later. Oh Joy.

 

[Mullaney]

I needed a lift kit for the M1009. View attachment 909224
It was too low for me to install the hubs and steering linkage. This should work. View attachment 909225
I know we all see these seals in the axle spindle areas but most times they are neglected and not replaced. I have new ones and cleaned and will re-grease the spindle bearings.View attachment 909226
Now to make it fun the the unseasonal Pennsylvania fall weather. Be Safe and Take Care. I will post my progress later.

.
I like your "lift kit".
Nice and Orange and it looks like it may have been around for several days...



.

 

[cucvrus]

I learned an expensive lesson. I guess it wasn’t” anyone fault. It has been a few years since I bought and used the big caulk tubes of The Right Stuff. I went to use it and it had cured inside the tube.
The gears look good in the front axle.
The center of the tube was still useable so not a total loss.
I am moving along to the tie rod ends.

More later when I can see.

 

[cucvrus]

If you are wondering the tie rod lock nuts are 1 5/16” and the left one is reverse thread. Take notes and learn before you burn.

 

[cucvrus]

I replaced both tie rod ends, sanded and painted the cross bar with the new tie rod ends installed I moved along and done the same to the drag link ends.
I have been making great progress today. I will post more.

 

[cucvrus]

I was sad to see that the front driveshaft was toast.
The slip joint boot is torn and full of rust and the tube is bent at more then one place. It was picked up with a loader from the side.
also looks like it has not seen a grease gun since it left Flint GM.
In case you need the Felpro part number for the front differential cover on the M1009
I disconnect the stock rubber brake hoses and calipers. The hose were bad and made my hands black like burnt rubber.
I am all done for the day.
Be Safe and have a great weekend.

 

[cucvrus]

The calipers are toast

 

[cucvrus]

In my mailbox from a guy that specializes in K5 parts.

 

[cucvrus]

Check out the nice repair on this piece from the Wild Weasel, I think someone needs some welder training. This is the price that supports the upper core support and the lower core support and gives a place to attach the lower bumper to grill filler panel. This one is officially retired. I bought one of these from the K5 guy. He told me not to send people his way he had had nothing but trouble from people wanting parts. I met him when he was looking for an OEM Blazer gate.
Well it should last a while. The patch weighs more than the entire stock part. That puts the grille and front end out of balance. That piece had got to be recycled.