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Radiator Questions

pigpen60

Active member
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Location
foley/missouri
Anyone using the new aluminum core plastic tanked radiators in their CUCV? Opinions on such? My radiator needs re-cored and I cant find a complete brass/copper radiator. Would re-core but I'm having trouble finding a core. Appreciate your time.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have used them and I prefer them to the metal radiators. I have them that are direct replacements from Harrison GM. They discontinued the copper / brass in GM parts in the early 90's. I have the plastic aluminum in the 87 M1028 and the current build M1009. Easier to fix as told to me by the radiator shop and newer cars seem to seldom need radiators. My friend is in the salvage business and seldom sells any radiators. They just seem to last forever in the aluminum plastic design. Others opinions may vary.
 

pigpen60

Active member
681
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43
Location
foley/missouri
well, I remember when the VW rabbit came out with the aluminum and plastic radiator. The only thing repairable was pulling the tanks either to replace the tank or replace the core. I like the old brass and copper radiators, we would rod em out and solder up the leaks. I always enjoyed that. Now something came to mind, the sensor in the radiator is for ??? and how does that handle the plastic tank?
 

chevymike

Well-known member
578
449
63
Location
San Diego, CA
Known a couple people (not CUCV) who have had tank failures out offroading. One had the tank near the upper hose explode. Other had one tank split from the core. Both had very long tow strap rides to a point a tow truck could get them.

I had mine just re-cored and the tubes inside were a little larger than stock. Should work well but not cheap.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,263
9,552
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Known a couple people (not CUCV) who have had tank failures out offroading. One had the tank near the upper hose explode. Other had one tank split from the core. Both had very long tow strap rides to a point a tow truck could get them.

I had mine just re-cored and the tubes inside were a little larger than stock. Should work well but not cheap.
I have probably abused an M1009 in stock form more than anyone else outside of the military. I never had any radiator failures. A few clogged cooling fins from axle deep mud. But nothing a pressure washer couldn't clean out. I have installed no fewer than 25 of the Harrison plastic aluminum and they get my seal of approval. It's a Simple Task. the choice is yours. But I will add make sure you replace the radiator isolators at the time the new radiator is installed to avoid failures in the securement. Do it right the first time and never look back. No half fast work done in my camp.
 

Attachments

sneekyeye

Active member
251
131
43
Location
ALABAMA
I'm using the plastic tank radiator, never had any trouble. Just replace the mounting bushings when you have it out, and a new radiator cap. Thats your easiest chance to do it. There are several 'while you're in there' things you could do, front main seal, harmonic balancer, clean up rust on the core support and paint, any leaks on the front of the engine, hoses, belts. How far you go is up to you.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,263
9,552
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Cleaned up rust on core support , installed new radiator, and new radiator isolators done. It's a simple task. Plan the work and work the plan. No time for half fast work here. once and DONE. All that while sitting in a folding chair and enjoying the great outdoors.
DSCF3413.JPG
 

pigpen60

Active member
681
127
43
Location
foley/missouri
Known a couple people (not CUCV) who have had tank failures out offroading. One had the tank near the upper hose explode. Other had one tank split from the core. Both had very long tow strap rides to a point a tow truck could get them.

I had mine just re-cored and the tubes inside were a little larger than stock. Should work well but not cheap.
I have a radiator coming in tomorrow. Aluminum and plastic
 
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