re-wiring my MEP-004a for different voltages, including single phase

[sewerzuk]

Great thread sewerzuk. BTW, coner or nuke? I spent 20 years back in the engine room pushing.

Nuke. I was shimmin' control rods and shiftin' coolant pumps on the USS Buffalo and USS John C Stennis. You?

That A/C unit is going to eat up quite a bit of the generator's capacity. Without knowing the specific amp draws of everything, my gut feeling is that the -004 will run everything simultaneously except 1 of the major appliances (stove, dryer, A/C). Freezers and refrigerators can add up quickly as well.
I have always preferred a generator sized slightly under the 100% electrical usage of a house. You'll never really need the oven, range burners, dryer, A/C, and hot tub running all at the same time. If you size a genset capable of running all of this stuff simultaneously you'll pay for it in extra fuel consumption for the 95% of the time you don't need it. I'll bet that the -004 would be a good match for your setup...

 

[CT-Mike]

Nuke. I was shimmin' control rods and shiftin' coolant pumps on the USS Buffalo and USS John C Stennis. You?

RO as well, Daniel Webster, Kentucky, Miami, and Dallas, with an instructor tour at Marf and ETMS thrown in. Currently a Senior Reactor Operator at the local nuke plant.

I did post about wiring one of these in low zigzag back in 2010 but then lost interest.

We have two fridges and a freezer as well. Our son and his two kids live with us so there is a good chance that the stove, dryer, AC, and hot tub could all be going at once.

 

[sewerzuk]

I did forget to mention the well pump. Obviously not everything wi be running at once, but the hot tub does get used when it's hot out, we just adjust it down to 85 degrees F.

As for the fuel, my understanding is home heating oil is th same as highway diesel with red dye added since it is t taxed.

Do the MEP's have the ability to draw fuel up from a basement tank, or would I need some kind of pump?

Also, what is everyone using for a transfer switch? Ideally I would like to set this up to auto-start and transfer on loss of power but not sure if that is possible.

HHO should be OK in your set; I have run all sorts of crap though my personal MEP's (including centrifuged waste motor oil) with no problems. Somebody might correct me here...but theoretical maximum draft is determined by the density of the fluid you are lifting, the efficiency of the pump, and the atmospheric pressure; in your case (without knowing your elevation and guessing the density of HHO at 7lb/gal), it would be somewhere around 35'. You'll never actually get that though. My experience says, at 10' you will probably be fine, any more than that and you might begin to run into problems.

 

[sewerzuk]

RO as well, Daniel Webster, Kentucky, Miami, and Dallas, with an instructor tour at Marf and ETMS thrown in. .

I did one instructor tour at MARF as well; met my wife in Saratoga Springs. I was there in 1997-2001. You?

 

[CT-Mike]

1985-1989.

 

[kolbytraveller]

MEP-005a Trouble

I really appreciated the video as a step by step guide; however, when I got in there to make the change, my MEP 005a had a different motherboard in it. There were multiple BUS bars grouping the pegs in groups of 2's instead of the single bus bar tying the three rows together. It was otherwise the same underneath. Any idea on how to proceed?

Thanks

 

[sewerzuk]

I really appreciated the video as a step by step guide; however, when I got in there to make the change, my MEP 005a had a different motherboard in it. There were multiple BUS bars grouping the pegs in groups of 2's instead of the single bus bar tying the three rows together. It was otherwise the same underneath. Any idea on how to proceed?

Thanks

It sounds like the voltage reconnection board was removed and individual bars were bolted in its place. Actually not a problem for the single phase conversion.
A picture would be very helpful

 

[kolbytraveller]

Pictures

Here are some pictures. It seems the bottom side of the board is the same as the one you did in your video. The only difference was in the BUS bar(s) on top here.

Thanks again

 

[Munchies]

you have the bus bar on the bottom of the bottom board. should be riveted on. Drill rivets, remove long bar, cut, replace. mark the original orientation of the bar, it is not symmetrical. I know because I have cut off the 'wrong' end before.

I used the L0-ground jumper from the load terminals as my jumper for the reconnection board. Didn't need it anyhow, carried a ground and separate neutral to my panel.

 

[sewerzuk]

Here are some pictures. It seems the bottom side of the board is the same as the one you did in your video. The only difference was in the BUS bar(s) on top here.

Thanks again

What you have is normal; the removable board you are holding in your hand is re-used without modification.

The bus bar on the stationary board is the one you cut...many methods can be used! The dremel seems to be the most popular, but any way you can get the bar cut and re-attached without damaging wires is acceptable.

 

[andytk5]

Mine was under the bottom board as well. I just moved the wires and cut the bar while it was attached. Had to lengthen the X8A16B from T8 to make it to T3 by a couple of inches.

 

[James Vick]

All. I just purchased a MEP004A. On the labels, it reads 277/480 at 400Htz and 120/208 at 50 to 60htz. Most home appliances operate at 60htz. I am attempting to change over to single phase 120/24o, but my concern is the Hertz. Can anyone tell me how the hertz can be changed to 60? Also, the hertz dial only goes from 288 to 418.

Thank you

 

[sewerzuk]

All. I just purchased a MEP004A. On the labels, it reads 277/480 at 400Htz and 120/208 at 50 to 60htz. Most home appliances operate at 60htz. I am attempting to change over to single phase 120/24o, but my concern is the Hertz. Can anyone tell me how the hertz can be changed to 60? Also, the hertz dial only goes from 288 to 418.

Thank you

The MEP-004 is either 60hz OR 400hz; your machine cannot be both. Unfortunately, the frequency is determined by the internal workings of the generator head itself and CANNOT be changed without completely swapping out the generator head. Based on the fact that your frequency meter is a 400hz one, it sounds as if you have a 400hz unit. I would verify it with a handheld meter (in case you actually do have a 60hz unit and somebody swapped out the frequency meter for a 400hz one), but you're probably out of luck. The best use for your machine is probably parts for a 60 hz unit.

 

[PeterD]

The MEP-004 is either 60hz OR 400hz; ...

Actually the 400 HZ version is the MEP-113A.

All. I just purchased a MEP004A. On the labels, it reads 277/480 at 400Htz and 120/208 at 50 to 60htz. Most home appliances operate at 60htz. I am attempting to change over to single phase 120/24o, but my concern is the Hertz. Can anyone tell me how the hertz can be changed to 60? Also, the hertz dial only goes from 288 to 418.

Can you post a picture of the label that says 277/480 volts? I was not aware that these units would produce that voltage. The normal voltages are either 120/208 or 240/416.

Not withstanding that label, I'm sure what you really have is a MEP-113. As Sewerzuk says, it is not really convertible to 50/60 HZ unless you replace the generator head, and some of the control circuits. It is useful for engine and fuel system components however. (Sorry!)

 

[James Vick]

Thanks all. Interesting both labels on the unit show both voltages and hertz. I find it odd that someone would have added those on a MEP113a. So why both labels? Sorry to sound redundant, but the unit runs really good.

Jim

 

[aczlan]

Thanks all. Interesting both labels on the unit show both voltages and hertz. I find it odd that someone would have added those on a MEP113a. So why both labels? Sorry to sound redundant, but the unit runs really good.

The cynic in me says that it may have been done to fool someone who didn't know better, but I am sure that there could be a valid reason to mislabel such a generator, I just cant think of one...

Aaron Z

 

[James Vick]

I have a pic in my email, but not sure how to post here. Duh!

 

[sewerzuk]

Thanks all. Interesting both labels on the unit show both voltages and hertz. I find it odd that someone would have added those on a MEP113a. So why both labels? Sorry to sound redundant, but the unit runs really good.

Jim

Does your generator have an ASK? I believe every one I have seen with ASK has both 400hz and 60hz labels on it.

And, PeterD caught something that I missed. 277/480 is a voltage that the MEP's are not capable of...wonder why yours has that label on it? That is still a wye voltage, so not completely out of the realm of possibility...

Without having the set in front of me to look at, my advice would be to fire it up and put a VOM with frequency measuring capability on the convenience receptacle. That will put to rest the question about what it is that you actually have...

If it is indeed a 400hz set, your best course of action is to sell it (or part it out) and buy a 60hz set. There is no easy or cheap way to convert it to 60hz.

 

[James Vick]

Here are the photos

 

[212sparky]

The data plates are generic. Crank her up and see what it puts out.