sewerzuk
Member
- 524
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- Location
- Seaside, OR
Those label plates are on the ASK, and not on the generator...pretty normal to see both sets of ratings on that data plate.Here are the photos
99.9% sure you have a 400hz unit.
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Those label plates are on the ASK, and not on the generator...pretty normal to see both sets of ratings on that data plate.Here are the photos
Nice tow vehicle, are you on the HML (I have a 95 and a 99, both HMCS?) Also, your MEP and mine are of the same vintage, both are 89s.Here are the photos
No! Don't throw it out...100% of the engine system, and about 95% of the electrical system are interchangeable with the 60hz sets. The 400hz sets are needed for parts to keep the 60hz ones running!Peter
So the way i see it, I have a great boat anchor.
Jim
Glad I could be of help!I have completed my conversion as shown in the youtube video. Your video does not reference the resistors as described in this thread. Are the resistors a necessity to complete this process?
Also, post #40 refers to relocating x12eg16n from t12 to t13, but the video advises to move it to t11. Am I missing something important here?
And by the way, hats off to sewerzuk for this info!
Yep, that one should work fine. It is about the right resistance value, and its 25W power capacity is more than enough. But, you do need 3 of them (you said that there were 2 in an ebay auction). Try looking at www.digi-key.com before you buy the ebay ones...I think you'll find them for about the same price there.View attachment 399025Does this look like an acceptable 40 ohm resistor? Just found two on *bay for about ten bucks each. From the picture in post #90, it appears you did not splice into any wires, rather added a shunt across the contacts. Is this correct?
I will address your other questions after we have solved the frequency issue.However when I run it and hold the start switch to flash the field it takes about 10 to 15 seconds till the volts jump - it is set in low range at the moment and the voltage jumps to about 150v and the adjustment knob makes little or no change to the adjustment over the entire range of travel. The set produces ~130 - 135 volts with the throttle in idle.
Also I am only displaying ~47 hertz (basically pegged on the low end of the meter) - the needle bounces up to ~53 - 54 hertz when the set first begins producing voltage and does a similar bounce when you shut the set down.
Matt
1. Get a meter that will display volts and hertz ($30 at Lowes will get you a Kill-A-Watt which does this, $60 will get you something like my Ideal 61-340) and check the accuracy of the gauges. They do fail as do their transducers.However when I run it and hold the start switch to flash the field it takes about 10 to 15 seconds till the volts jump - it is set in low range at the moment and the voltage jumps to about 150v and the adjustment knob makes little or no change to the adjustment over the entire range of travel. The set produces ~130 - 135 volts with the throttle in idle.
Also I am only displaying ~47 hertz (basically pegged on the low end of the meter) - the needle bounces up to ~53 - 54 hertz when the set first begins producing voltage and does a similar bounce when you shut the set down.
As I have nothing hooked to the set yet I don't see any movement out of the power meters...
Any thoughts as to the issue? - I am thinking the electronic governor must not be working as I cannot adjust volts or hertz output levels...
You are correct; frequency will be the same at the convenience receptacle and the output terminals. You can measure it at any of those locations. Remember that the main breaker needs to be closed if you want to measure output at the terminal lugs...for that reason I recommend measuring at the convenience receptacle (I have run into several faulty main breakers).Hey guys - thanks for the quick attention - I have a fluke 187 at my disposal so I should be able to verify the voltage and hertz without issue - I was taking the readings off the gauge panel with the throttle control pulled all the way out so the set was at the maximum RPM that can be developed manually - the hertz reading on the meter was still only showing 47 Hz...
I have yet to put a tach on the engine to set if the throttle is set correctly and the operating RPM can be reached (it may be as simple a that...)
Would it be better to have a load that I can hook to the unit or should we determine the cause of the fault prior to loading the unit?
When measuring the frequency of the output which set of terminals provide the best representative reading - all three should be the same correct?
Thanks again
Matt
So your set is running at idle...let's correct that before going any further!Ok - so the numbers I had provided earlier were off the set instrumentation - with the test meter on the convenience outlet I am getting the following:
106 - 110v depending on the position of the voltage adjustment knob (95v at idle) and then the kicker - I am only reading 36 - 37 Hz...
The throttle cable was fully extended when I took the readings - I also checked the position of the actuator arm on the injection pump and it seems to be at full travel but did not loosen the cable to verify it will not move any further - pressing on it didn't yield any rise in engine speed...
So I am trying to think what else would limit the RPM - fuel restriction? But the set runs fairly stable and is not hunting or surging like I would expect with a fuel limited engine...
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