• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Refreshing Gunny the thread.

GunnyM1009

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
530
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
ssdvc said:
Post a "She's Alive" video !!
Click to expand...
I plan to once I get some more diesel in. It was running real ruff last night because of the air still in the system. I will post one this afternoon though. I can't wait till I get the Trans and transfer case back in. That will be an exciting video for me. First time moving under it's own power since 2017.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Terminus M1009 | Page 5 | SteelSoldiers
Check out this thread. I used a strip of 12-gauge galvanneal steel and welded it all the way across the top of the gate. I stich welded it, and it made the gate tough again. Actually, tougher than when it was new. Check out the pus case gate I started out with and done some low budget repairs on and returned it to a decent useable gate again. I rebuilt several gates that were hopeless. GM gate shells were always expensive, and they haven't made any in 10 + years. I still have 2 new pick-up gates and K5 gates in the GM boxes. I prefer the challenge of rebuilding things. Always did. anyone can buy new stuff. The challenge is rebuilding and hand crafting things from other junk. Good Luck. I will have an update on the deal. Let me know what else you need I want to make another deal. How do your rear window glass guides look? That brush seal I added to mine as an awesome addition. I had a rubber seal on the inside that would collapse over the edge of the glass when the window was down.
 
GunnyM1009

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
530
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
cucvrus said:
Terminus M1009 | Page 5 | SteelSoldiers
Check out this thread. I used a strip of 12-gauge galvanneal steel and welded it all the way across the top of the gate. I stich welded it, and it made the gate tough again. Actually, tougher than when it was new. Check out the pus case gate I started out with and done some low budget repairs on and returned it to a decent useable gate again. I rebuilt several gates that were hopeless. GM gate shells were always expensive, and they haven't made any in 10 + years. I still have 2 new pick-up gates and K5 gates in the GM boxes. I prefer the challenge of rebuilding things. Always did. anyone can buy new stuff. The challenge is rebuilding and hand crafting things from other junk. Good Luck. I will have an update on the deal. Let me know what else you need I want to make another deal. How do your rear window glass guides look? That brush seal I added to mine as an awesome addition. I had a rubber seal on the inside that would collapse over the edge of the glass when the window was down.
Click to expand...
My seals on all the windows are shot. 20220905_143833.jpg
I like the brush seal idea I may use that.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Have you had the chance to get the bolts out of the spring top plates. That is a 1 1/8" bolt and you will need the bolts and all 4 of the flat washers. 2 flat washers on each side. One flat washer against the bolt head back side and the other flat washer goes from the sway bar to the top clamping plate. I have the rubbers out of this sway bar so you will need the Energy Suspension sway bar kit. DSCF8854.JPG These are the sway bar brackets. DSCF8855.JPGYou will need 4 new 7/16" bolts and nuts to hold them to the frame. That will be a 5/8" hex head bolt with an 11/16" nut. Get the correct size. I see them attached with 3/8" bolts. That is incorrect. Do it right. OK? PM me the address again and I will get these parts out to you. Take Care. I also have the brush seal and I was wanting to know what your window tracks look like.
 
GunnyM1009

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
530
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
cucvrus said:
Have you had the chance to get the bolts out of the spring top plates. That is a 1 1/8" bolt and you will need the bolts and all 4 of the flat washers. 2 flat washers on each side. One flat washer against the bolt head back side and the other flat washer goes from the sway bar to the top clamping plate. I have the rubbers out of this sway bar so you will need the Energy Suspension sway bar kit. View attachment 878422 These are the sway bar brackets. View attachment 878423You will need 4 new 7/16" bolts and nuts to hold them to the frame. That will be a 5/8" hex head bolt with an 11/16" nut. Get the correct size. I see them attached with 3/8" bolts. That is incorrect. Do it right. OK? PM me the address again and I will get these parts out to you. Take Care. I also have the brush seal and I was wanting to know what your window tracks look like.
Click to expand...
I'm not really sure what the tracks look like I'll have to pull the cover off and see. I have not pulled the bolts out of the top plates yet. I'll go see if they will pop out real quick.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
GunnyM1009 said:
@cucvrus that 2nd bolt was not easy my friend. I was wondering if the bolt or my impact was going to give first. Luckily it was the bolt.View attachment 878499
Click to expand...
Sometimes you need a stronger impact. Breaking a bolt that size would be a feat. A good shallow impact socket attached to a strong impact will get the job done. If you use a chrome socket you have lost more than half the effect of the strong impact. Add a deep socket even less and an extension it keeps going down. The ball swivel takes a lot of the torque out of the impact. Good thing you got it off. Give me a few days and I will get the package off to you.
 
GunnyM1009

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
530
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
cucvrus said:
Sometimes you need a stronger impact. Breaking a bolt that size would be a feat. A good shallow impact socket attached to a strong impact will get the job done. If you use a chrome socket you have lost more than half the effect of the strong impact. Add a deep socket even less and an extension it keeps going down. The ball swivel takes a lot of the torque out of the impact. Good thing you got it off. Give me a few days and I will get the package off to you.
Click to expand...
Yeah I have an impact that does 675ft lbs in reverse. I also had a shallow impact socket. That ball swivel was what was killing me on that venture. It was unfortunately necessary to get onto the bolt though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
111,212members
165,498threads
2,328,970posts
1,437online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks