SHC35 and SHC60 Battery

Third From Texas

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Shutting down after spinning the fan with an error code. Could be no fuel but not sure that I have the heat sensor and the heat element hooked up right,.

Dang, all day.
Just follow the beeps and chase the issues as per the TM.
*back of the control box should also have the codes

Low power or undervolt is almost ALWAYS a battery under 12v or a fuse is blown
 
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Deals7

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Thanks for the feedback! I'll keep working at the tips you've given.

One last update and then I"ll try to rewire what I have so far. I ran the heat sensor directly into the 9 pin, but I didn't know where to put the heating/warmer unit so I tried adding a heat controller as seen in the pics.

Also, in all fairness it may be sending an error message due to the fuel not being hookedup :-/ Seems likely. I don't have a Jerry Can but I do have some diesel, I wonder If I could fill the fuel line and the filter and get it to just fire....

 

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Third From Texas

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Thanks for the feedback! I'll keep working at the tips you've given.

One last update and then I"ll try to rewire what I have so far. I ran the heat sensor directly into the 9 pin, but I didn't know where to put the heating/warmer unit so I tried adding a heat controller as seen in the pics.

Also, in all fairness it may be sending an error message due to the fuel not being hookedup :-/ Seems likely. I don't have a Jerry Can but I do have some diesel, I wonder If I could fill the fuel line and the filter and get it to just fire....

As long as there is a little fuel in the bowl, it will prime and cycle thru the startup. It has no pressure detection (being gravity fed, no pressure to measure).

The number of beeps tells the code of course. Do you have the TM for it?

20211226_193921.jpg
 

Third From Texas

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OH......btw

It won't start if the sensor is over 80 degrees if I recall. I had to wait six months to start trouble shooting mine. LOL

It's been in the 80's here all week with another round of 80's forecast until the weekend so I'm not missing the heater (but I couldn't test it in these conditions either).
 

Deals7

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The pad that was in the battery box was just slipped between the two rows of cells as in the pics above. Once I pried the batteries lose the pad didn't have much footing in the epoxy.

This is the 7w element I ordered. My plan was to use one under each battery.

I bought those but thought they were the sensor.....probably the reason for the 18beeps :-/ Thanks for the link though. They were easy to work with.
 

Deals7

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Good morning SteelSoldiers, I'm going to order some of these badly needed T's from Mouser, premade

Hoping for any feedback. This is based on my SHC60 but I've seen some slight variances that might mean the SCH35 is different.

First, if anyone would confirm the below specs are good to go for the SHC60 and then if any changes needed for the 35 please post and I'll order 2 sets.


T Connector
Molex Assembly .93" 14g and 18g

2 Pos
2 Neg
2 Same Color loop sensor 14g blue
2 heat plate 1x18g 1 x14g Brown Middle 18g Hot white outer sensor

Pos: Red 4 18g
Pos: White 9 18g
Neg: Green 7 18g
Neg: Black 3 18g
Loop: Blue 1 14g
Loop: Blue 2 14g
Power: Brown 5 18g
Power: White 6 18g


1 2 3
blue blue blank
4 5 6
red brown white
7 8 9
green black white

3 Female Molex Connectors Creating a T

Images: First one is not mine but seems quite different than mine below it, 355jpg ???

336 and the diagram seem to indicate a lot of variances but is it just the wire colors? Will my specs above work?

Any exact specs on the correct Molex Plug would be great!

Happy New Year SteelSoldiers

Scott-
 

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Third From Texas

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I used the connector that Profo posted in the below link. Perfect fit for my SHC60.

The 1st and 3rd images are correct (and match the 4th drawing).

And thanks for that 1st pic. I totally forgot about the little wooden charging handle. And I've no clue where I tossed mine. LOL
 

Third From Texas

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I used the connector that Profo posted in the below link. Perfect fit for my SHC60.
*I have not tried the resistor yet, buy I got a few.

The 1st and 3rd images you posted above are correct (and match the 4th drawing).

And thanks for that 1st pic. I totally forgot about the little wooden charging handle. And I've no clue where I tossed mine. LOL

I'm loading a transport here in a few hours, but I'm going to make up a set of leads for my second heater this week. Will advise if all works.
 

Third From Texas

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On mine (and the drawing):

14g brown is the sensor loop
14g wht is the heat element loop

Red and blk 18g make up battery01
Wht and grn 18g make up battery02

I don't see any reason that you couldn't use 18g on all. Colors could vary I guess (SHC made millions of these battery packs).

Pos: Red 4 18g
Pos: White 9 18g
Neg: Green 7 18g
Neg: Black 3 18g
Loop: Blue 1 14g
Loop: Blue 2 14g
Power: Brown 5 18g
Power: White 6 18g
I'd assume the "blue"14s are either heater or sensor.

But the brown 18g and second wht 18g are unknown w/o knowing the orientation.
 
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YAT-YAS

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You know I already make a battery adapter for these-- it addresses the temp sensor and heating element issues----- I don't advertise as much as I should but several members here have bought them......

Anyway, battery size does not matter as long as they are matched relative to one another (i.e. don't use a group 31 with a lawnmower battery)---- the heater looks at charge rates and if it sees an imbalance, it will throw a code and shut down-- it may not do it right away but it will happen sooner or later.

Z
Can I buy one of those connectors?
 

Texas243

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YAT-YAS I just sent you a pm

Z
Well, I finally got around to building a battery for my 60 heater. Lots of great information here so I just got all the parts together and found a little time and banged it out. Used the 5.7 resister and added two fuses in line to the batteries. No heater was put back, don't need it in Texas.
Next step is to plug it nd and give it a spin. My heater has ZERO hours so I am realy excited about this.
 

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Third From Texas

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Well, I finally got around to building a battery for my 60 heater. Lots of great information here so I just got all the parts together and found a little time and banged it out. Used the 5.7 resister and added two fuses in line to the batteries. No heater was put back, don't need it in Texas.
Next step is to plug it nd and give it a spin. My heater has ZERO hours so I am realy excited about this.
Nice.

I used an old 50 can for one heater and a plastic Harbor Freight ammo box for another.20230121_145233.jpg

20230121_145307.jpg
 

Third From Texas

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As I have not yet fired my heater up, how would you compare the heat output to a standard diesel powered salamander heater of the same size? Just wondering how efficient that heat exchanger is. Something has to be crazy good to cost what these do new.
I don't have a reference between the two (these were actually the first diesel heaters I ownedc beyond the Hunter that was installed in my M1079 box.

That said, it can move a MUCH higher volume of air and from my experience it can be pretty damned hot air. I've vented it in my 2-car garage for heat a few times and it was almost overkill,
 

Texas243

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I don't have a reference between the two (these were actually the first diesel heaters I ownedc beyond the Hunter that was installed in my M1079 box.

That said, it can move a MUCH higher volume of air and from my experience it can be pretty damned hot air. I've vented it in my 2-car garage for heat a few times and it was almost overkill,
I just fired mine up and got a 16 beep code- Vent motor error. Looking that up now.
Calls code 16 a vent blower. The two fans are called combustion air and heated air. Both appear tp be working. The heated air fan spins up about 5 seconds and shuts down with the 16 code.
Any ideas?
 
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Coug

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in the Army out in the field I'd toss food packages into the outlet hose where it goes into the tent. An hour or so later I'd have hot food.
The look on the new Battalion XO's face when I'm offering him hot bratwurst (Johnsonville pre cooked) was priceless.
We'd also put water cans a couple feet away from the outlets and angled so the air would bounce off several of them to warm them up. Great for field showers in the middle of winter.
 

Poccur

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As I have not yet fired my heater up, how would you compare the heat output to a standard diesel powered salamander heater of the same size? Just wondering how efficient that heat exchanger is. Something has to be crazy good to cost what these do new.
The big thing with those heaters is they are indirect heat, I.E. they are not direct fired so there is no chance of CO and vent gas being pushed into the shelter..
That said the heat exchangers are around 90 - 95 % efficient
The game changer is they are battery powered. Most bullet heaters require a 120V feed to spin the motors, you have situations where they are running a diesel generator just to power a bullet heater ...not efficient. You can send a vehicle forward with just the heater, start warming things up before the generators are in position and the power cables are placed.
In Alaska we used the heaters to pre-warm cold generators for easier starting and also used them to warm the shelters on the ground to make them easier to unfold and setup. Made life a lot easier.
 

Texas243

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The big thing with those heaters is they are indirect heat, I.E. they are not direct fired so there is no chance of CO and vent gas being pushed into the shelter..
That said the heat exchangers are around 90 - 95 % efficient
The game changer is they are battery powered. Most bullet heaters require a 120V feed to spin the motors, you have situations where they are running a diesel generator just to power a bullet heater ...not efficient. You can send a vehicle forward with just the heater, start warming things up before the generators are in position and the power cables are placed.
In Alaska we used the heaters to pre-warm cold generators for easier starting and also used them to warm the shelters on the ground to make them easier to unfold and setup. Made life a lot easier.
Quick update from last night. Got back to work on the heater and restarted it to listen to the alarm code beep.
Carefully counted 18 beeps, instead of the previous 16 I thought I heard.
18 means battery temp sensor fault. I just built the battery with the 5.7 ohm resistor so lets start there. Looked at the plug and noticed one of the pins was not seated all the way in and was not making contact. I little work and the pin seated and lets retry. Made it all the way thru the startup cycle only to fault out on code 3 fuel system. All looked good but I think I did no have enough head pressure on my fuel can to push the fuel to the system, as my float was dry. Set heater on the ground for my final try and the damn battery was too low to start. that was after about 10 test starts. the battery is charging and I will fire it up tonight and let you all know then outcome.
 
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