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So who has bumped the power on a 6CTA cummins

MAdams

Active member
380
132
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
Has anyone advanced their timing yet? On the 8.3 it looks like you have to pull the serp belt and unbolt a huge cover plate on the front of the motor.

I turned the top screw 1 full turn and its too smokey while off boost. I did 4 clicks on the gov springs but it couldn't adjust the idle down below 900rpm so I took 1 turn out of the springs and its idles in neutral at 700 now.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
You only have to remove the small round injection pump gear cover which the tachometer cable attaches to. Few ways to advance from 8 to 16 degrees, depending upon if you trusted it was 8 to begin with.

Aftermarket makes governor spring kits. Full fuel rack travel limiting adjusting nut is on back of pump. Install EGT gauges before tampering.
 

grendel

Member
536
12
18
Location
Derry, NH
Has anyone advanced their timing yet? On the 8.3 it looks like you have to pull the serp belt and unbolt a huge cover plate on the front of the motor.

I turned the top screw 1 full turn and its too smokey while off boost. I did 4 clicks on the gov springs but it couldn't adjust the idle down below 900rpm so I took 1 turn out of the springs and its idles in neutral at 700 now.
Yep, I did it

14708284_10208504664668892_1727861340667604259_n.jpg

Biggest single improvement you can make.

Then we did springs, injectors and a turbo...
 

jesusgatos

Active member
2,689
28
38
Location
on the road - in CA right now
Military trucks registered as historical vehicles in CA are exempt from emissions requirements, but when I see people posting pictures and videos of **** like that blast of smoke it makes me wonder for how long...
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
You don't have to pull the front cover to do so. He did to reseal it since it was seeping.

Look at the alternator on that MoJo! Holy space amps!
 
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MAdams

Active member
380
132
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
74M35A2, I read and reread the other post you made about advancing the timing but I dont understand how you do it w/o removing the front cover. Advance by skipping a couple teeth on the pump gear?
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Just per the service manual. There are timing marks on the side of the pump, you find TDC on the crank damper, and between the two of them, you simply pull the injection pump driven gear from the pump shaft. It is a tapered fit. You are not pulling the gear off and holding it in your hand or feeding it to your dog. Simply pull it forward 1/4" till the pump can spin free (but don't rotate the pump shaft). Back the engine up 8 degrees, then reattach the pump gear back on. This is not step by step, but just summary. Pull the injection pump gear off by 1/4", back engine up 8 degrees, and reattach gear. You are not pulling the gear out of the gearcase. You use a puller to snatch the gear off the tapered injection pump shaft, keeping it in the gear case. You use the puller through the small round cover the 90 degree tach adapter is threaded onto. This round cover comes off. You can also set timing via a spill port method, but same gear removal process to adjust. Would be like pulling a flywheel on a lawnmower, without removing the engine shroud. Can be done enough to rotate things around, but not fully remove it and hold in your hand or throw it at your neighbors garage door like a Frisbee. There is no woodruf key between the injection pump and gear, just a tapered fit between the two.
 
Last edited:

grendel

Member
536
12
18
Location
Derry, NH
Just per the service manual. There are timing marks on the side of the pump, you find TDC on the crank damper, and between the two of them, you simply pull the injection pump driven gear from the pump shaft. It is a tapered fit. You are not pulling the gear off and holding it in your hand or feeding it to your dog. Simply pull it forward 1/4" till the pump can spin free (but don't rotate the pump shaft). Back the engine up 8 degrees, then reattach the pump gear back on. This is not step by step, but just summary. Pull the injection pump gear off by 1/4", back engine up 8 degrees, and reattach gear. You are not pulling the gear out of the gearcase. You use a puller to snatch the gear off the tapered injection pump shaft, keeping it in the gear case. You use the puller through the small round cover the 90 degree tach adapter is threaded onto. This round cover comes off. You can also set timing via a spill port method, but same gear removal process to adjust. Would be like pulling a flywheel on a lawnmower, without removing the engine shroud. Can be done enough to rotate things around, but not fully remove it and hold in your hand or throw it at your neighbors garage door like a Frisbee. There is no woodruf key between the injection pump and gear, just a tapered fit between the two.
Have you done it yet? :)

We tried it that way. Easier to take the cover off.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Have you done it yet? :)

We tried it that way. Easier to take the cover off.
No, I've been too busy looking for an SAE #1 clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing.

Your cover came off easily because you had the hood and radiator already off. Most people will be doing this on an assembled truck.
 

silverstate55

Unemployable
2,075
872
113
Location
UT
My proverbial two cents' worth, here goes. When this thread really got going, I turned up fuel on my 8.3 (M931A2, 14.00R20 tires) using all the recommendations from neverenufhp, and installed 4K GSK. I adjusted the fuel rates several different times, and while I got puffs of black smoke consistently, EGTs would quickly rise anytime I was trying to pull a heavy load uphill. Flat ground performance increased significantly from stock, and on the hills it was a bit better; I just had to watch the EGTs and downshift to keep from damaging anything. I cleaned my stock air filter, and the intake stack cap was flowing air in spite of the obvious heavy paint coats (no holes plugged, could feel air flowing into/through cap). But I just wasn't happy with the setup and planned on putting everything back to stock just to not have to worry about the quickly-spiking EGTs. In spite of adjustment after adjustment, I just could never seem to get things right (and I've read this thread thoroughly from start to finish many many times to be clear on what I was doing).

After my exhaust manifold gasket blew out on cylinders #1 & #2, I purchased the aftermarket intake air filter from TMG along with an air ram intake cap (what the heck, at least it wasn't painted over). After everything was back together, but before turning the IP back down to stock levels, I had to do some test runs to ensure that the new exhaust manifold gaskets were OK and that there were no coolant leaks. As soon as I fired up the truck, HOLY MOLEY there was black smoke everywhere! And tons of soot blew out of the muffler/exhaust, all over everything I had outside.

Long story short, I ended up turning my IP back down to stock settings, and it runs just how I want it to...takes the hills much better than before, the EGTs are slow to rise on hills and I typically take the same hills one gear higher now. My engine was simply starved for air, not fuel...

I took a test trip to southern Utah and back, loaded both ways (10K-lbs northbound, 12.5K-lbs southbound, on I-15). With fuel setting set back to stock levels and the new aftermarket air filter/air ram intake, the differences were dramatic! Now I had LOTS of top-end power; once everything spooled up to around 1800 rpms, the truck was ready to run and EGTs actually dropped! It was all too happy running around 2100-rpm at 60-62mph, even up 1% & 1.5% grades on hills. Hills up to 3% to 3.5% I eventually had to downshift to 4th gear as EGTs gradually approached 1250 (my threshold). On one 5% hill I had to downshift to 3rd gear, but it kept revving around 1900 and EGTs were barely into the 1100s (a dramatic improvement from before I switched air filters).

On the return trip southbound, I had a nasty headwind the entire way (25-30mph steady). I thought for sure that it would take me forever, as it would have before the air filter/IP mods. Nope, the engine performed as before, and the headwinds only added 50-100 degrees to EGTs. I was able to do 60-62mph consistently, even up 1% to 1.5% grades. The engine is really responsive above 1700rpms, and headwinds/hills are no longer a challenge. The difference was dramatic, I was truly amazed.

So now my next upgrades will be focused on increasing & cooling air flow into the engine: air-to-air aftercooling, etc... I will be closely following other members' progress in posts above, and already have a radiator with built-in ATAAC new in the crate....just have to sell this house first so I hope in late summer I can start with the radiator swap & ATAAC install.
 
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silverstate55

Unemployable
2,075
872
113
Location
UT
And my post above is in no way a knock against neverenufhp; he is very knowledgeable and helpful, and helped me via PMs several times. In my truck's case, the stock IP settings were perfect, it just needed more air. Every truck is different, as we know, and others' uses are different from mine.

YMMV, as the saying goes.
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
4,166
393
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
As it has been said a million times, air, fuel, and compression are what you have to have and in the proper ratio, to make torque and horsepower. You must always treat them as a system both going in and out.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

grendel

Member
536
12
18
Location
Derry, NH
My proverbial two cents' worth, here goes. When this thread really got going, I turned up fuel on my 8.3 (M931A2, 14.00R20 tires) using all the recommendations from neverenufhp, and installed 4K GSK. I adjusted the fuel rates several different times, and while I got puffs of black smoke consistently, EGTs would quickly rise anytime I was trying to pull a heavy load uphill. Flat ground performance increased significantly from stock, and on the hills it was a bit better; I just had to watch the EGTs and downshift to keep from damaging anything. I cleaned my stock air filter, and the intake stack cap was flowing air in spite of the obvious heavy paint coats (no holes plugged, could feel air flowing into/through cap). But I just wasn't happy with the setup and planned on putting everything back to stock just to not have to worry about the quickly-spiking EGTs. In spite of adjustment after adjustment, I just could never seem to get things right (and I've read this thread thoroughly from start to finish many many times to be clear on what I was doing).

After my exhaust manifold gasket blew out on cylinders #1 & #2, I purchased the aftermarket intake air filter from TMG along with an air ram intake cap (what the heck, at least it wasn't painted over). After everything was back together, but before turning the IP back down to stock levels, I had to do some test runs to ensure that the new exhaust manifold gaskets were OK and that there were no coolant leaks. As soon as I fired up the truck, HOLY MOLEY there was black smoke everywhere! And tons of soot blew out of the muffler/exhaust, all over everything I had outside.

Long story short, I ended up turning my IP back down to stock settings, and it runs just how I want it to...takes the hills much better than before, the EGTs are slow to rise on hills and I typically take the same hills one gear higher now. My engine was simply starved for air, not fuel...

I took a test trip to southern Utah and back, loaded both ways (10K-lbs northbound, 12.5K-lbs southbound, on I-15). With fuel setting set back to stock levels and the new aftermarket air filter/air ram intake, the differences were dramatic! Now I had LOTS of top-end power; once everything spooled up to around 1800 rpms, the truck was ready to run and EGTs actually dropped! It was all too happy running around 2100-rpm at 60-62mph, even up 1% & 1.5% grades on hills. Hills up to 3% to 3.5% I eventually had to downshift to 4th gear as EGTs gradually approached 1250 (my threshold). On one 5% hill I had to downshift to 3rd gear, but it kept revving around 1900 and EGTs were barely into the 1100s (a dramatic improvement from before I switched air filters).

On the return trip southbound, I had a nasty headwind the entire way (25-30mph steady). I thought for sure that it would take me forever, as it would have before the air filter/IP mods. Nope, the engine performed as before, and the headwinds only added 50-100 degrees to EGTs. I was able to do 60-62mph consistently, even up 1% to 1.5% grades. The engine is really responsive above 1700rpms, and headwinds/hills are no longer a challenge. The difference was dramatic, I was truly amazed.

So now my next upgrades will be focused on increasing & cooling air flow into the engine: air-to-air aftercooling, etc... I will be closely following other members' progress in posts above, and already have a radiator with built-in ATAAC new in the crate....just have to sell this house first so I hope in late summer I can start with the radiator swap & ATAAC install.

Where is your timing set?
 
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