phemer
Member
- 22
- 37
- 13
- Location
- Scottsdale, AZ
Hey all,
First post here, but just picked up my 5th hmmwv. First two pairs, from GP, were quick flips. This current one is here to stay. Project purpose is to be a small arms resistant, defensive bugout veh with offensive capabilities. Current mods are as follows:
M1045a2 slant back
full turret
FLIR system (roof mounted pan/tilt w/ monitor and joystick on radio rack)
12k lb winch
full spare on back
all new wranglers w/ run-flat inserts
PA/siren system
All LEDs
Armored running boards
X-doors w/ the enhanced armor wafers
Armored grill & side radiator plates?
Red-dot AC (actually working)
whip antennas for looks
entire exterior is Rhino-liner'd
SO FAR:
removed seats/mats/wood from interior
sanded CARC to prep for paint
used about a billion little squares of Aluminum Duct tape to seal every screw hole in the inside of the body
installed new window seals w/ weather stripping and felt roller channel strips on doors
used 80mil KilMat sound deadening mats on interior of doors (then WD40 on window pull knob)
UP NEXT
Purchased 2 gallons of Lizard Skin sound deadening spray and 2 gallons of their ceramic thermal insulator spray (w/ their spray gun)
Going to spray in my (comically inadequate amount of) Lizard skin. Going to focus mostly on front footwells / inner firewall & rear slantback top quarter panels
I have a couple rolls of .5cm thick adhesive foam sound deadening material. Doesn't stick super well (as i discovered on the doghouse) so planning on only using it on flat, level areas.
I also ordered 10 yards (@ 76" wide) of super plush luxury black "essex" automotive carpet. I ordered the same amt of a thick Jute for a base layer.
Custom dash is, so far, a train-wreck pipe-dream. I'm attempting to design and build myself. Communism has a better chance of working than me churning out an attractive, functional console. Seriously considering like a 1/2 MDF wood.
THEN - all in all, should be left w/ all black carpeted, custom consoled semi-armored apocalypse wagon that's LESS crazy loud inside... That's the goal.
My question to the group is - roof & turret insulation. I live in Phoenix and it gets HOT - and likely this will bake in the sun most of the time, so that complicates stick-on roof insulation panels/material.
My idea is, since I have limited Lizard Skin spray-in coating and have to contend w/ some pretty unforgiving heat - I'll focus my lizard skin on the inside of the side/rear slant-back panels (curved portion) and front footwell/firewall. For the flat portions of the hatch and segments that fit in the roof around the turret assembly - I'm thinking cut to fit portions of foam panels held in place w/ adequate neodymium magnets. I'd likely have to integrate a layer of fiberboard on one side of the foam along w/ a strap for ease of panel removal. This, of course, would be either wrapped in fabric or otherwise finished to be aesthetic pleasing. Magnets would negate the need for adhesive, wont get weak, wear out or rust and, if appropriately chosen, won't fall down in event of a hard bump.
I'm considering using the foam panels designed for behind residential home stucco. An example would be a 1" thick panel of Polyisocyanurate foam is cheap, durable and has a R value of 7-8 per inch, as compared to Thinsulate @ 3.3 or "Rockwool" @ 4.3
What's the consensus? Has anyone attempted this?
I'll do a progress pics dump at some point soon.
First post here, but just picked up my 5th hmmwv. First two pairs, from GP, were quick flips. This current one is here to stay. Project purpose is to be a small arms resistant, defensive bugout veh with offensive capabilities. Current mods are as follows:
M1045a2 slant back
full turret
FLIR system (roof mounted pan/tilt w/ monitor and joystick on radio rack)
12k lb winch
full spare on back
all new wranglers w/ run-flat inserts
PA/siren system
All LEDs
Armored running boards
X-doors w/ the enhanced armor wafers
Armored grill & side radiator plates?
Red-dot AC (actually working)
whip antennas for looks
entire exterior is Rhino-liner'd
SO FAR:
removed seats/mats/wood from interior
sanded CARC to prep for paint
used about a billion little squares of Aluminum Duct tape to seal every screw hole in the inside of the body
installed new window seals w/ weather stripping and felt roller channel strips on doors
used 80mil KilMat sound deadening mats on interior of doors (then WD40 on window pull knob)
UP NEXT
Purchased 2 gallons of Lizard Skin sound deadening spray and 2 gallons of their ceramic thermal insulator spray (w/ their spray gun)
Going to spray in my (comically inadequate amount of) Lizard skin. Going to focus mostly on front footwells / inner firewall & rear slantback top quarter panels
I have a couple rolls of .5cm thick adhesive foam sound deadening material. Doesn't stick super well (as i discovered on the doghouse) so planning on only using it on flat, level areas.
I also ordered 10 yards (@ 76" wide) of super plush luxury black "essex" automotive carpet. I ordered the same amt of a thick Jute for a base layer.
Custom dash is, so far, a train-wreck pipe-dream. I'm attempting to design and build myself. Communism has a better chance of working than me churning out an attractive, functional console. Seriously considering like a 1/2 MDF wood.
THEN - all in all, should be left w/ all black carpeted, custom consoled semi-armored apocalypse wagon that's LESS crazy loud inside... That's the goal.
My question to the group is - roof & turret insulation. I live in Phoenix and it gets HOT - and likely this will bake in the sun most of the time, so that complicates stick-on roof insulation panels/material.
My idea is, since I have limited Lizard Skin spray-in coating and have to contend w/ some pretty unforgiving heat - I'll focus my lizard skin on the inside of the side/rear slant-back panels (curved portion) and front footwell/firewall. For the flat portions of the hatch and segments that fit in the roof around the turret assembly - I'm thinking cut to fit portions of foam panels held in place w/ adequate neodymium magnets. I'd likely have to integrate a layer of fiberboard on one side of the foam along w/ a strap for ease of panel removal. This, of course, would be either wrapped in fabric or otherwise finished to be aesthetic pleasing. Magnets would negate the need for adhesive, wont get weak, wear out or rust and, if appropriately chosen, won't fall down in event of a hard bump.
I'm considering using the foam panels designed for behind residential home stucco. An example would be a 1" thick panel of Polyisocyanurate foam is cheap, durable and has a R value of 7-8 per inch, as compared to Thinsulate @ 3.3 or "Rockwool" @ 4.3
What's the consensus? Has anyone attempted this?
I'll do a progress pics dump at some point soon.