Sound deadening and custom interior install project

[phemer]

Hey all,
First post here, but just picked up my 5th hmmwv. First two pairs, from GP, were quick flips. This current one is here to stay. Project purpose is to be a small arms resistant, defensive bugout veh with offensive capabilities. Current mods are as follows:

M1045a2 slant back
full turret
FLIR system (roof mounted pan/tilt w/ monitor and joystick on radio rack)
12k lb winch
full spare on back
all new wranglers w/ run-flat inserts
PA/siren system
All LEDs
Armored running boards
X-doors w/ the enhanced armor wafers
Armored grill & side radiator plates?
Red-dot AC (actually working)
whip antennas for looks
entire exterior is Rhino-liner'd


SO FAR:

removed seats/mats/wood from interior

sanded CARC to prep for paint

used about a billion little squares of Aluminum Duct tape to seal every screw hole in the inside of the body

installed new window seals w/ weather stripping and felt roller channel strips on doors

used 80mil KilMat sound deadening mats on interior of doors (then WD40 on window pull knob)


UP NEXT

Purchased 2 gallons of Lizard Skin sound deadening spray and 2 gallons of their ceramic thermal insulator spray (w/ their spray gun)

Going to spray in my (comically inadequate amount of) Lizard skin. Going to focus mostly on front footwells / inner firewall & rear slantback top quarter panels

I have a couple rolls of .5cm thick adhesive foam sound deadening material. Doesn't stick super well (as i discovered on the doghouse) so planning on only using it on flat, level areas.

I also ordered 10 yards (@ 76" wide) of super plush luxury black "essex" automotive carpet. I ordered the same amt of a thick Jute for a base layer.

Custom dash is, so far, a train-wreck pipe-dream. I'm attempting to design and build myself. Communism has a better chance of working than me churning out an attractive, functional console. Seriously considering like a 1/2 MDF wood.

THEN - all in all, should be left w/ all black carpeted, custom consoled semi-armored apocalypse wagon that's LESS crazy loud inside... That's the goal.

My question to the group is - roof & turret insulation. I live in Phoenix and it gets HOT - and likely this will bake in the sun most of the time, so that complicates stick-on roof insulation panels/material.

My idea is, since I have limited Lizard Skin spray-in coating and have to contend w/ some pretty unforgiving heat - I'll focus my lizard skin on the inside of the side/rear slant-back panels (curved portion) and front footwell/firewall. For the flat portions of the hatch and segments that fit in the roof around the turret assembly - I'm thinking cut to fit portions of foam panels held in place w/ adequate neodymium magnets. I'd likely have to integrate a layer of fiberboard on one side of the foam along w/ a strap for ease of panel removal. This, of course, would be either wrapped in fabric or otherwise finished to be aesthetic pleasing. Magnets would negate the need for adhesive, wont get weak, wear out or rust and, if appropriately chosen, won't fall down in event of a hard bump.

I'm considering using the foam panels designed for behind residential home stucco. An example would be a 1" thick panel of Polyisocyanurate foam is cheap, durable and has a R value of 7-8 per inch, as compared to Thinsulate @ 3.3 or "Rockwool" @ 4.3

What's the consensus? Has anyone attempted this?

I'll do a progress pics dump at some point soon.

 

[TOBASH]

You’re putting plush carpet into a vehicle with a turret that leaks like a sieve?

And why you need a vehicle that has night vision and is resistant to small arms fire is.... concerning.

 

[Russ Knight]

Hey all,
First post here, but just picked up my 5th hmmwv. First two pairs, from GP, were quick flips. This current one is here to stay. Project purpose is to be a small arms resistant, defensive bugout veh with offensive capabilities. Current mods are as follows:

M1045a2 slant back
full turret
FLIR system (roof mounted pan/tilt w/ monitor and joystick on radio rack)
12k lb winch
full spare on back
all new wranglers w/ run-flat inserts
PA/siren system
All LEDs
Armored running boards
X-doors w/ the enhanced armor wafers
Armored grill & side radiator plates?
Red-dot AC (actually working)
whip antennas for looks
entire exterior is Rhino-liner'd


SO FAR:

removed seats/mats/wood from interior

sanded CARC to prep for paint

used about a billion little squares of Aluminum Duct tape to seal every screw hole in the inside of the body

installed new window seals w/ weather stripping and felt roller channel strips on doors

used 80mil KilMat sound deadening mats on interior of doors (then WD40 on window pull knob)


UP NEXT

Purchased 2 gallons of Lizard Skin sound deadening spray and 2 gallons of their ceramic thermal insulator spray (w/ their spray gun)

Going to spray in my (comically inadequate amount of) Lizard skin. Going to focus mostly on front footwells / inner firewall & rear slantback top quarter panels

I have a couple rolls of .5cm thick adhesive foam sound deadening material. Doesn't stick super well (as i discovered on the doghouse) so planning on only using it on flat, level areas.

I also ordered 10 yards (@ 76" wide) of super plush luxury black "essex" automotive carpet. I ordered the same amt of a thick Jute for a base layer.

Custom dash is, so far, a train-wreck pipe-dream. I'm attempting to design and build myself. Communism has a better chance of working than me churning out an attractive, functional console. Seriously considering like a 1/2 MDF wood.

THEN - all in all, should be left w/ all black carpeted, custom consoled semi-armored apocalypse wagon that's LESS crazy loud inside... That's the goal.

My question to the group is - roof & turret insulation. I live in Phoenix and it gets HOT - and likely this will bake in the sun most of the time, so that complicates stick-on roof insulation panels/material.

My idea is, since I have limited Lizard Skin spray-in coating and have to contend w/ some pretty unforgiving heat - I'll focus my lizard skin on the inside of the side/rear slant-back panels (curved portion) and front footwell/firewall. For the flat portions of the hatch and segments that fit in the roof around the turret assembly - I'm thinking cut to fit portions of foam panels held in place w/ adequate neodymium magnets. I'd likely have to integrate a layer of fiberboard on one side of the foam along w/ a strap for ease of panel removal. This, of course, would be either wrapped in fabric or otherwise finished to be aesthetic pleasing. Magnets would negate the need for adhesive, wont get weak, wear out or rust and, if appropriately chosen, won't fall down in event of a hard bump.

I'm considering using the foam panels designed for behind residential home stucco. An example would be a 1" thick panel of Polyisocyanurate foam is cheap, durable and has a R value of 7-8 per inch, as compared to Thinsulate @ 3.3 or "Rockwool" @ 4.3

What's the consensus? Has anyone attempted this?

I'll do a progress pics dump at some point soon.

Sounds like a very cool ride (no pun intended)! What kind of FLIR are you considering? I have a set of IR floods I am going to mount on my M925A2. Thinking about going with night vision goggles, but dang they are pricey. Please let us know how the Lizard Skin works as I'm considering it for my truck. It has AC and can't keep up in the summer.

 

[Action]

What are ...
Armored running boards,
enhanced armor wafers?

just regular windshields?

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Wouldn't this post be better suited in the HMMWV Modification Section?

 

[phemer]

TOBASH - Because AMERICA. After a 15yr SOF career and 6 years of combat deployments, I've seen the fabric of society and humanity crumble in times of crisis and the protection of my family, myself and safe transportation to our cabin (out of town) is my number 1 priority in the world. My NEED for night vision, armor or any mechanisms of protection for my family is about as relevant as argument for my NEED for freedom of speech. It's my right as an American, for which I've paid in lbs of flesh. I'm sorry you're... concerned? It's kind of concerning that you're concerned a guy on a military vehicle enthusiast site is enthusiastic about his armored veh.

RUSS KNIGHT - The FLIR system I currently have mounted is a bit dated, but it's the Raytheon NightSight 4000. The joystick was similar in function and appearance to an atari joystick. I ordered a new, smaller and more robust joystick and wired that into the factory raytheon harness. I'll definitely keep you posted on the effectiveness of the lizard skin - BUT I'll be doing a ton of other stuff so may not know, specifically, what difference the lizard skin makes. Great reviews tho.

ACTION - The armored running boards go from 1/2 up front quarter panel (covering passenger footwell vent), along running boards to 1/2 up rear fender, almost to fuel port. The enhanced armor x-doors are part of the MAK light-armor kit. It's a kevlar wafer they rivet to existing x-doors. Not very uncommon. Just regular windshield and windows for now. Uparmor windshields are difficult to source, as I'm sure you know, but I'm persistent and patient. There are still some other bits of armor I'm searching for - but again, i'm patient.

BLK HMMWV - New to this site - I'll delete and repost where most appropriate. You call it.

 

[Mullaney]

TOBASH - Because AMERICA. After a 15yr SOF career and 6 years of combat deployments, I've seen the fabric of society and humanity crumble in times of crisis and the protection of my family, myself and safe transportation to our cabin (out of town) is my number 1 priority in the world. My NEED for night vision, armor or any mechanisms of protection for my family is about as relevant as argument for my NEED for freedom of speech. It's my right as an American, for which I've paid in lbs of flesh. I'm sorry you're... concerned? It's kind of concerning that you're concerned a guy on a military vehicle enthusiast site is enthusiastic about his armored veh.

RUSS KNIGHT - The FLIR system I currently have mounted is a bit dated, but it's the Raytheon NightSight 4000. The joystick was similar in function and appearance to an atari joystick. I ordered a new, smaller and more robust joystick and wired that into the factory raytheon harness. I'll definitely keep you posted on the effectiveness of the lizard skin - BUT I'll be doing a ton of other stuff so may not know, specifically, what difference the lizard skin makes. Great reviews tho.

ACTION - The armored running boards go from 1/2 up front quarter panel (covering passenger footwell vent), along running boards to 1/2 up rear fender, almost to fuel port. The enhanced armor x-doors are part of the MAK light-armor kit. It's a kevlar wafer they rivet to existing x-doors. Not very uncommon. Just regular windshield and windows for now. Uparmor windshields are difficult to source, as I'm sure you know, but I'm persistent and patient. There are still some other bits of armor I'm searching for - but again, i'm patient.

BLK HMMWV - New to this site - I'll delete and repost where most appropriate. You call it.

.
Not sure if they would be helpful, but one of the guys here has sheets of sheet kevlar (or similar) in the Classified section. I had looked and wondered if a sheet of two of that cut to fit inside the door could work. Not really armor - but a lot more than the sheet metal alone would be. Link below:

WA - Ballistic fiberglass sheets

4' x 8' x 0.45" class 3 ballistic - UL-752 (bullet resistant) fiberglass sheets. These are new, never used (or shot at) sheets. These class 3's are rated vs three .44 Magnum rounds. These sheets weigh 4.68 lbs sq/ft or just under 150 lbs/sheet. Price is per sheet: $325 each. 5 sheets are...

www.steelsoldiers.com

EyeCon360 is a complete light kit that was on a lot of HMMWV's with lights on 4 sides, one on a gimble, and IR lights in the bars. Might be worth looking to see what you can find.

Go Man Go! Walk softly but carry a really big stick - Repeat application as required.

 

[phemer]

.
Not sure if they would be helpful, but one of the guys here has sheets of sheet kevlar (or similar) in the Classified section. I had looked and wondered if a sheet of two of that cut to fit inside the door could work. Not really armor - but a lot more than the sheet metal alone would be. Link below:

WA - Ballistic fiberglass sheets

4' x 8' x 0.45" class 3 ballistic - UL-752 (bullet resistant) fiberglass sheets. These are new, never used (or shot at) sheets. These class 3's are rated vs three .44 Magnum rounds. These sheets weigh 4.68 lbs sq/ft or just under 150 lbs/sheet. Price is per sheet: $325 each. 5 sheets are...

www.steelsoldiers.com

EyeCon360 is a complete light kit that was on a lot of HMMWV's with lights on 4 sides, one on a gimble, and IR lights in the bars. Might be worth looking to see what you can find.

Go Man Go! Walk softly but carry a really big stick - Repeat application as required.

Wow! Great find! I wonder if I'd be able to cut that using a saw? 32sq' for $325 is a steal, even if only level 3. May be worth a thought. I have a local guy who can order, cut & bend AR500 steel. Probably going to start talking numbers w/ him soon.

I do have front and rear HID (bright white) and IR switchable light bars. I don't know the brand, but they both have drop-down metal shields and were used operationally at one time.

I'll keep you posted. In the middle of a 2nd home remodel as well, so not enough hours in the day currently, but I'm plugging away.

 

[Mullaney]

Wow! Great find! I wonder if I'd be able to cut that using a saw? 32sq' for $325 is a steal, even if only level 3. May be worth a thought. I have a local guy who can order, cut & bend AR500 steel. Probably going to start talking numbers w/ him soon.

I do have front and rear HID (bright white) and IR switchable light bars. I don't know the brand, but they both have drop-down metal shields and were used operationally at one time.

I'll keep you posted. In the middle of a 2nd home remodel as well, so not enough hours in the day currently, but I'm plugging away.

.
Sounds good! This stuff is in Washington State, but that is a lot closer to you than me. I really don't know how to cut the stuff but there is a spec sheet in the link. Maybe we can figure out if a skill saw with the right kind of blade might work...

The price definitely seemed really good to me as well.

 

[phemer]

.
Sounds good! This stuff is in Washington State, but that is a lot closer to you than me. I really don't know how to cut the stuff but there is a spec sheet in the link. Maybe we can figure out if a skill saw with the right kind of blade might work...

The price definitely seemed really good to me as well.

Not going to fit that one in a flat-rate box. I wonder if it'd be practical to have seller cut in half and palletize?

Because I'm a super nerd, if you base (very) rough metrics off the AR500 sappy plates, at 10x12" and 8lbs, their level 3 plates are 170% heavier than this guy's level 3 plate at 4.68 lbs. The ballistic resistance systems are different, however, level 3 to level 3 compared - 4.5 lbs vs 8 lbs for similar resistance.

This is a very good deal. Would prob make sense to just double up the material and could reinforce any/all flat planes, i.e. inner slant-back sides and hatch, inside rear cargo area along fender wells, rear backrest panels, part of upper firewall, etc.

 

[Hummerhmm]

You’re putting plush carpet into a vehicle with a turret that leaks like a sieve?

And why you need a vehicle that has night vision and is resistant to small arms fire is.... concerning.

I am concerned about the carpet also. Marine carpet for boats would work awesome I bet.

also concerned that you are concerned….

Maybe I just watched too many A Team episodes as a kid but I am salivating at the idea of building an armored hmmwv.

Merica!

 

[Coug]

As armored trucks go, the HMMWV wasn't originally designed for armor to begin with, and adding it compromises the truck in lots of other ways. The armor itself is pretty compromised as well.
If I had the money for an armored truck of some type, I'd look for one that was armored to begin with.

But that's just me.


edit: "Armored to begin with" meant something with the armor as part of the original specs/build, as opposed to a bunch of stuff bolted on afterwards, just in case my point wasn't clear.

 

[Mullaney]

As armored trucks go, the HMMWV wasn't originally designed for armor to begin with, and adding it compromises the truck in lots of other ways. The armor itself is pretty compromised as well.
If I had the money for an armored truck of some type, I'd look for one that was armored to begin with.

But that's just me.

.
Sad but true. Honestly, riding around in a tank (with air conditioning) would be preferred.
Only problem with that is that a tank makes a bigger target...
Flip side of that is what you can sling for return fire.

 

[Awol]

TOBASH - Because AMERICA. After a 15yr SOF career and 6 years of combat deployments, I've seen the fabric of society and humanity crumble in times of crisis and the protection of my family, myself and safe transportation to our cabin (out of town) is my number 1 priority in the world. My NEED for night vision, armor or any mechanisms of protection for my family is about as relevant as argument for my NEED for freedom of speech. It's my right as an American, for which I've paid in lbs of flesh. I'm sorry you're... concerned? It's kind of concerning that you're concerned a guy on a military vehicle enthusiast site is enthusiastic about his armored veh.

Preach brotha!

It's the same reason people own body armor and night vision. It's my right, and I dont need a reason or a need.

I've been shopping around for Humvee armor. Sure is expensive, but piecing it together slowly over time it isn't so bad.

 

[Lothar]

I'm afraid this has gone on too long without

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I’ve armored more hmmwvs than I can remember , I’m finishing up on an M1165A1 REV now....
The hmmwv is the easiest truck in the world and the hardest truck in the world to armor, I know that sounds crazy, but till
you do one, you will see what I mean. The easy part is that all your armor is for the most part flat, the hard part is that there is so many entry points and areas that need armor. I prefer to call truck bullet resistant rather than proof.
To keep weight down, I would say using a very high grade aluminum is the way to go.
Its my belief 99% of what anyone would encounter will be small arms fire, of that 99%, I believe most of that would be pistol caliber cartridges, the rest rifle in calibers 5.56-7.62, all FMJ, no AP.
You can’t defend against everything, even Abrams tanks are defeated with an RPG if hit in the right spot.

 

[Hummerhmm]

I’ve armored more hmmwvs than I can remembe, finis up on an M1165A1 REV now....
The hmmwv is the easiest truck in the world and the hardest truck in the world to armor, I know that sounds crazy, but till
you do one, you will see what I mean. The easy part is that all your armor is for the most part flat, the hard part is that there is so many entry points and areas that need armor. I prefer to call truck bullet resistant rather than proof.
To keep weight down, I would say using a very high grade aluminum is the way to go.
Its my belief 99% of what anyone would encounter will be small arms fire, of that 99%, I believe most of that would be pistol caliber cartridges, the rest rifle in calibers 5.56-7.62, all FMJ, no AP.
You can’t defend against everything, even Abrams tanks are defeated with an RPG if hit in the right spot.

I was thinking 6061 T6 because:

1. relative weldability.
2. Less backplate spall than 7075.
3. Avoids galvanic corosion problems from steel.

What thickness do you think is ideal?

25 mm seems to be the minimum for ap 7.62 but puts weight per square foot in the same ballpark as ar500. I was thinking 1/2 inch max and add a backplate to critical areas.

We should start a dyi armor thread.

 

[Action]

used about a billion little squares of Aluminum Duct tape to seal every screw hole in the inside of the body

Are you saying that after you paint the interior, you will have an uncoated square around every screw hole?

You could just start a screw or bolt in the hole to keep the threads clean...,

 

[phemer]

Hey all,
Yeah the humvee was never designed to be any kind of armored and I know troops will adapt - and they did - and the military industrial complex provided all the armor widgets the gov couldn't wait to bolt on, road stability and general road-worthiness be damned. There's no perfect system out there - nothing is anything 'proof'. My goal is to maybe be resistant to 556 ball, maybe some 762 in some critical areas, but if or when someone starts chucking 762 or larger AP at me - it's prob the result of a string of TERRIBLE decisions or massive underestimation. Just trying to be better off than 99.99% of everyone else in case of societal collapse during the short duration of me escaping the city w/ the fam.

Aluminum squares - def painting over them. Objective is to seal the chassis to the best of my ability. Deep water fording? Definitely don't see myself crossing any rivers. #1, I live in the desert and #2, IF there are any rivers as the result of massive rainfall - you don't cross flash floods. You wait the ten min then cross after the water stops.

Aluminum armor - I'll prob just go w/ my buddy who can order and cut AR500, OR just look for the bits I want to pop up for sale. I'm in no hurry.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

This really belongs in the HMMWV modification/ customization forum.
I have no power to move it but I would have thought a moderator would have by now.
I dig your enthusiasm but it's really not for the stock HMMWV forum.
BH