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Technical Assistance needed for non-starting Deuce (76 degreess outside)

Floridianson

Floridianson

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welldigger said:
When pulling the HH you just need to line up the red tooth with the pointer. The other timing marks don't matter in this situation.

Very good welldigger move up two seats in class Warthog to the back of the class.
When the crank and advance unit inspection cover are on the marks the HH tooth would be one tooth to the rear. Allthough this is correct timming the HH will not come off with out dammage.
As our new student said all that is needed to remove HH is line up the scribe tooth with the pointer on the head and remove.
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goldneagle

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Floridianson said:
welldigger said:
When pulling the HH you just need to line up the red tooth with the pointer. The other timing marks don't matter in this situation.

Very good welldigger move up two seats in class Warthog to the back of the class.
When the crank and advance unit inspection cover are on the marks the HH tooth would be one tooth to the rear. Allthough this is correct timming the HH will not come off with out dammage.
As our new student said all that is needed to remove HH is line up the scribe tooth with the pointer on the head and remove.
Click to expand...
I broke a piece of the thin metal plate above the gear that kept the HH from being lifted up. I could not find the red line on the teeth and the pump was hard to rotate. Since it is only a scrap pump i am not losing any sleep over it. At least I got the HH off so I could see what it looks like and how it fits. Good learning experience!

Hopefully I will not need to remove the HH.
Click to expand...
 
welldigger

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goldneagle said:
Floridianson said:
I broke a piece of the thin metal plate above the gear that kept the HH from being lifted up. I could not find the red line on the teeth and the pump was hard to rotate. Since it is only a scrap pump i am not losing any sleep over it. At least I got the HH off so I could see what it looks like and how it fits. Good learning experience!

Hopefully I will not need to remove the HH.
Click to expand...
Now you know exactly why I said not to force anything. Once you get the red/scored tooth lined up the hh will lift out effortlessly.
Click to expand...
 
goldneagle

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OK I removed the center bolt on the HH today. Had my neighbor crank the engine while I held the chopstick on top of the cylinder in the center of the hole. When we turned on the power switch we got a lot of diesel coming out of the opening where we had the chopstick. When he cranked the engine the chopstick went up and down as you described. We opened up the injector lines and tried to bleed the lines. We did a lot of cranking and just got a little trickle out of the injector lines.

We did observe a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust stack while we were cranking. The truck will not start. We cranked so much that the low air buzzer stopped buzzing.

So where do we go from here?
 
zout

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Smoke means fuel is in the system - when were the filters last changed - and is it straight diesel fuel your running

while rolling over - did you give it a TOUCH of starting fluid - and I mean ONLY A TOUCH spray and not a total wack of the stuff
 
goldneagle

goldneagle

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zout said:
Smoke means fuel is in the system - when were the filters last changed - and is it straight diesel fuel your running

while rolling over - did you give it a TOUCH of starting fluid - and I mean ONLY A TOUCH spray and not a total wack of the stuff
Click to expand...
Yes we did on a few of the tries. We had the truck connected to the M931 with the Nato Cable so we had plenty of battery juice to keep cranking the engine. You can imagine how many turns we cranked in order to fill the air tanks to 60 PSI.
 
zout

zout

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White smoke is fuel if that is what is smell like - air pressure is not related to a start condition. What about filters ?
 
welldigger

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If he has good flow coming out of the in tank pump i doubt it's fliters. If white smoke is coming from the exhaust then at least some of the injectors are squirting fuel.

Zout may be onto something with the filters though.... have you drained your primary fuel filter to see if there is any water in the fuel?
 
goldneagle

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zout said:
White smoke is fuel if that is what is smell like - air pressure is not related to a start condition. What about filters ?
Click to expand...
Primary fuel filter was replaced this week. I have no spare 2ndary filter. There is a lot of fuel flow on both sides of the IP. (when i opened up the hose fittings. There was also a lot of fuel coming out of the bolt hole that is in the center of the HH head.)

The air pressure was just mentioned to show how much cranking we did. It takes a lot of engine turning to pump that much air.
 
goldneagle

goldneagle

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zout said:
SO - has any starting fluid been sprayed SPARINGLY and what was the results
Click to expand...
Yes we sprayed ether a few times. The engine ran briefly on the ether. It did not continue on the diesel fuel.

No water in the fuel. I think it is a pressure issue. I don't think there is enough pressure coming out of the HH to the injectors.
 
zout

zout

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Start fluid only tells you its a fuel issue - keep spraying it and you will have more problems than you bargained for #bent rods.

Have to sit back and think this out from your side - what is related to fuel pressure feeding the system - has to have fuel and pressure and hunt the issue down per the tm.

Now is the time to STOP spraying start fluid that the diagnostics has given you the results to look for.
 
goldneagle

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After a year of no activity the Deuce is running once more! Jeepsinker was kind enough to drive down from Ft. Polk area through ridiculous traffic around Baton Rouge to fix the HH on the IP for me. He got here after 5PM yesterday. Over 7 hours on the road!

I had the truck pulled forward from the back fence line (large puddle under the truck from a week of rain) to a dry spot in my yard. We started in daylight and he took the injector lines off the HH. I used a flashlight to guide him in aligning the red mark on the gear so he could take off the HH from the IP. Once removed he could see that the button had popped off the HH. I had 2 new spring retainer clips as well as a new O-ring set for the HH. He reattached the button and put in new O-rings. The reinstall went well (under florescent trouble lighting)

It was after 8PM when we had everything buttoned up and ready to try starting the truck. We had to use the battery charger to assist in starting the engine. One of the batteries I had just installed is bad. It was reading 12 volt but could not take the load! After several cranking attempt the engine showed signs of life. Took a few more tries to get her running.

It was awesome to here her running again after all that time sitting there dead! We shut her down and closed up the hood. She restated with no issue (once I figured out I was pulling on the kill lever instead of the throttle lever) Remember, it was dark out by then and I was tired from working 10 hours in the yard on other projects.

I want to thank JEEPSINKER for all his help in getting the truck running again. Now I can sell it as a running truck!
 
orren

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Jeepsinker,

As I understand you all had to replace the HH button to get Zev's truck to run.
Will these trucks run at all without the button? There's a near new HH on my IP.

I can get mine to run after shooting the flame heater to her and she will
run good but can not get her to start, hot or cold, even in warm weather, otherwise. Also,
will not idle very good unless 900 rpm +.

Thanks for your help,

Orren Winjum
386-658-3539
 
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