cucvrus
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Where did you get the tow bar? I'm debating towing my '84 M1028 to the deer lease vs trailering it.Terminus was not worked on today. Mr Rusty and my Easter M1008 project held me up.View attachment 588143View attachment 588144View attachment 588145I towed this M1008 to the exhaust shop. They like me at the exhaust shop. I send them lots of work. i hate exhaust work with a passion. I like sawzalls and torches. They work best on old exhaust. Cut it off and send it for new. I know that some thought $450. for a complete set of dual exhaust was expensive. I think it is a bargain. I don't have to do it. If it rattles they fix it. They warrant the time and materials for 2 years and that is fine with me. Pay and fly. I must say towing with the new truck is much nicer then towing with the CUCV. The Stabilatrak is awesome. On back roads it helps maintain any pushing and the hill assist is great when you stop at an intersection that has a hill. I towed straight thru from Augusta GA to home without even getting tired. The trips I towed with the CUCV north from Augusta I could only make it to Blacksburg VA and I needed a hotel room. I was that beat from the sway and pushing. It was like driving a train on rails. Pulling a pickup with an M1009 is the most stressful situation. The new pick up you can hardly tell its back there except for the pintle ring slop. I am thinking of changing that to a 2 5/16" ball. Thank you for looking.
Original rubber from 1984 and you ran up some actual mileage out of the thing?!Runs and drives fine. Right rear tire flat again. Dry rotted. It is still and original 1984 Uniroyal tire that was in an M1009 as a spare. It is junk now that I ran it a bit. Engine area nice and dry.
So you're talking like a skid plate of some kind bridging the cross members, is that the plan?I found a few HD cross members while digging around thru a few of my sweet stashes. I will post pictures of my finds. I think I have this figured out. I think a smooth bottom is the way to go. I still like the stock wheeling challenge of the M1009.
Not sure. I do NOT want to build a mud basket up under there. I am approaching this project with my thinking cap screwed on tight. I want to explore all options. https://www.performanceonline.com/images/T/TCM7387_250_NEW.jpg I was looking at this as an option. It does not specify 4WD. I need to do something that the cross member does not crush and twist each time it hits something. Of course I could stay off red and black trails. But where's the fun in that? I will get it figured out and test it next time out. Thank you for asking. Have a great day.So you're talking like a skid plate of some kind bridging the cross members, is that the plan?
That's one reason I dislike skid plates. Another is that they tend to get in the way when performing routine maintenance.I do NOT want to build a mud basket up under there.
cucvrus;2016057. How do I tell how old the Uniroyal tire is.[/QUOTE said:Up until 2000 the DOT code was three digits, the first two are the week, the last is the year. The problem is that unless you know when a certain tire was available, that one digit doesn't mean all that much.
Let's say the code is "346". That tire was then made the 34th week of...'96? '86? '76?
From 2000 and up it's a four digit code, with the last two being the year. Far more meaningful.
For what it's worth, tires from before '85 can be much better than, say, '96. How can a 33-year old tire be better than one that's "only" 11 years old?
Something changed around '85, I suspected that environmental rules had banned some kind of adhesive. Years later a tire manufacturer rep pretty much admitted that this was what had happened.
All this pertains to radials, by the way. A bias tire is nowhere near as susceptible to aging. As long as the sidewalls aren't too cracked, they're usually still good.