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Third's Build Discussion

Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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Completed the design changes to the bed and picked up the last of the materials. Needed to get that done and assembled before I secure the water tank and land my inlets. It's the task for the next couple days.

Changed from a combo square door water inlet to separate individual inlets for gravity fill and city water. I only have one place to land it and the square door would require cutting a frame ember (which I am avoiding at all costs). The plastic door on the square inlet was pretty flimsy plastic that I never cared for. The individuals are a better fit and the gravity fill retains the locking feature I wanted.

I have my holes marked on the wall for water inlets and the water heater cutouts. Committed to the design once those are cut, but it's time. Still have to complete the bed layout before I can cut, though.

My fridge is a 3-way and I wasn't going to hook up the gas, then I decided to plumb it since my stovetop is gas (I designed the enclosure to Dometic's specs and purchased the GIANT wall vent cover). I've been leery of using propane on the fridge ever since I read that 90% or something of all RV fires are traced back to gas-powered fridges. I started looking at the vent cover I had purchased and realized that it would require hacking thru two frame members where it lands (again, something I *really* want to avoid). Given the potential fire risk, the cost of propane, and the giant vent hole the gas option for the fridge is off the table at this point. Using 12v and 110v are enough options for my usage.

I purchased a new 125a, 6 place, 12 slot breaker box. I wanted to reuse the Siemens breakers but locating a small box that retained the rear L-bracket mount that the included breakers have made it not worth pursuing. I got the new lunchbox-sized box and enough breakers for expansion for under $75. I'll sell the HUGE monolith OEM Siemens panel and breakers to someone building a giant warehouse or mall. LOL

I'm debating dropping everything down to 12v. I understand the benefits of going 24v but the added cost factor is making me regret the decision to go 24v. My fridge is 12v. My lights lights are 12v. My battery tenders are 12v . My laptop is 12v. The only 24v items I currently have are my water pumps (main and at the filtration system). I'm thinking I might be able to pull from the truck's 24v system for now (the water pumps really won't see that much usage and I can always change them out to 12v later). The main reason I wanted 24v was to add a 24v mini-split at a later date. But as a buddy pointed out, my little 110v window unit can be replaced at any Walmart for $100. And down here in the humid salt air the fins on ac units simply disintegrate after about 3 years. Mini-splits suffer the same fate (and cost 30x the price of a window unit). So I think I'll stick with 110v/12v. Less cost for ac, batteries, chargers, inverters, etc (all stuff that fails at some point).

Next I'll source a marine 12v panel and determine what if anything I need to retain from the OEM 12v relay box. All that should free up plenty of room for my batteries (I plan on doing 2-3 sliding racks at the base of the electrical closet), inverter, and other sparky bits. *I'm not even going to consider solar/lithium until well into the next administration when the nation starts to recover from Brandon's economic destruction.

I also need to get the fridge installed and powered which will require both 120v and 12v drops. Still working on other electrical requirements and changes. I already have my RJ45 and coaxial runs landed. I want to have all my 120v and 12v runs in place but not necessarily landed. That will let me button up the wire race trays and and prep the walls for paint.

I plan on doing some fishing trips starting towards the end of next month. So I need the bed, fridge, and the water system up and running asap. The rest will wait until winter.
 
Last edited:
Mullaney

Mullaney

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Third From Texas said:
Completed the design changes to the bed and picked up the last of the materials. Needed to get that done and assembled before I secure the water tank and land my inlets. It's the task for the next couple days.

Changed from a combo square door water inlet to separate individual inlets for gravity fill and city water. I only have one place to land it and the square door would require cutting a frame ember (which I am avoiding at all costs). The plastic door on the square inlet was pretty flimsy plastic that I never cared for. The individuals are a better fit and the gravity fill retains the locking feature I wanted.

I have my holes marked on the wall for water inlets and the water heater cutouts. Committed to the design once those are cut, but it's time. Still have to complete the bed layout before I can cut, though.

My fridge is a 3-way and I wasn't going to hook up the gas, then I decided to plumb it since my stovetop is gas (I designed the enclosure to Dometic's specs and purchased the GIANT wall vent cover). I've been leery of using propane on the fridge ever since I read that 90% or something of all RV fires are traced back to gas-powered fridges. I started looking at the vent cover I had purchased and realized that it would require hacking thru two frame members where it lands (again, something I *really* want to avoid). Given the potential fire risk, the cost of propane, and the giant vent hole the gas option for the fridge is off the table at this point. Using 12v and 110v are enough options for my usage.

I purchased a new 125a, 6 place, 12 slot breaker box. I wanted to reuse the Siemens breakers but locating a small box that retained the rear L-bracket mount that the included breakers have made it not worth pursuing. I got the new lunchbox-sized box and enough breakers for expansion for under $75. I'll sell the HUGE monolith OEM Siemens panel and breakers to someone building a giant warehouse or mall. LOL

I'm debating dropping everything down to 12v. I understand the benefits of going 24v but the added cost factor is making me regret the decision to go 24v. My fridge is 12v. My lights lights are 12v. My battery tenders are 12v . My laptop is 12v. The only 24v items I currently have are my water pumps (main and at the filtration system). I'm thinking I might be able to pull from the truck's 24v system for now (the water pumps really won't see that much usage and I can always change them out to 12v later). The main reason I wanted 24v was to add a 24v mini-split at a later date. But as a buddy pointed out, my little 110v window unit can be replaced at any Walmart for $100. And down here in the humid salt air the fins on ac units simply disintegrate after about 3 years. Mini-splits suffer the same fate (and cost 30x the price of a window unit). So I think I'll stick with 110v/12v. Less cost for ac, batteries, chargers, inverters, etc (all stuff that fails at some point).

Next I'll source a marine 12v panel and determine what if anything I need to retain from the OEM 12v relay box. All that should free up plenty of room for my batteries (I plan on doing 2-3 sliding racks at the base of the electrical closet), inverter, and other sparky bits. *I'm not even going to consider solar/lithium until well into the next administration when the nation starts to recover from Brandon's economic destruction.

I also need to get the fridge installed and powered which will require both 120v and 12v drops. Still working on other electrical requirements and changes. I already have my RJ45 and coaxial runs landed. I want to have all my 120v and 12v runs in place but not necessarily landed. That will let me button up the wire race trays and and prep the walls for paint.

I plan on doing some fishing trips starting towards the end of next month. So I need the bed, fridge, and the water system up and running asap. The rest will wait until winter.
Click to expand...
.
Sounds well thought out - and there really is something to be said for buy it, use it, scrap it and upgrade later if you want to. With you 100% on avoiding cuts into structural parts of the truck too!

Happy fabrication! Keep us up to date with pictures too.
 
chucky

chucky

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Third From Texas said:
Completed the design changes to the bed and picked up the last of the materials. Needed to get that done and assembled before I secure the water tank and land my inlets. It's the task for the next couple days.

Changed from a combo square door water inlet to separate individual inlets for gravity fill and city water. I only have one place to land it and the square door would require cutting a frame ember (which I am avoiding at all costs). The plastic door on the square inlet was pretty flimsy plastic that I never cared for. The individuals are a better fit and the gravity fill retains the locking feature I wanted.

I have my holes marked on the wall for water inlets and the water heater cutouts. Committed to the design once those are cut, but it's time. Still have to complete the bed layout before I can cut, though.

My fridge is a 3-way and I wasn't going to hook up the gas, then I decided to plumb it since my stovetop is gas (I designed the enclosure to Dometic's specs and purchased the GIANT wall vent cover). I've been leery of using propane on the fridge ever since I read that 90% or something of all RV fires are traced back to gas-powered fridges. I started looking at the vent cover I had purchased and realized that it would require hacking thru two frame members where it lands (again, something I *really* want to avoid). Given the potential fire risk, the cost of propane, and the giant vent hole the gas option for the fridge is off the table at this point. Using 12v and 110v are enough options for my usage.

I purchased a new 125a, 6 place, 12 slot breaker box. I wanted to reuse the Siemens breakers but locating a small box that retained the rear L-bracket mount that the included breakers have made it not worth pursuing. I got the new lunchbox-sized box and enough breakers for expansion for under $75. I'll sell the HUGE monolith OEM Siemens panel and breakers to someone building a giant warehouse or mall. LOL

I'm debating dropping everything down to 12v. I understand the benefits of going 24v but the added cost factor is making me regret the decision to go 24v. My fridge is 12v. My lights lights are 12v. My battery tenders are 12v . My laptop is 12v. The only 24v items I currently have are my water pumps (main and at the filtration system). I'm thinking I might be able to pull from the truck's 24v system for now (the water pumps really won't see that much usage and I can always change them out to 12v later). The main reason I wanted 24v was to add a 24v mini-split at a later date. But as a buddy pointed out, my little 110v window unit can be replaced at any Walmart for $100. And down here in the humid salt air the fins on ac units simply disintegrate after about 3 years. Mini-splits suffer the same fate (and cost 30x the price of a window unit). So I think I'll stick with 110v/12v. Less cost for ac, batteries, chargers, inverters, etc (all stuff that fails at some point).

Next I'll source a marine 12v panel and determine what if anything I need to retain from the OEM 12v relay box. All that should free up plenty of room for my batteries (I plan on doing 2-3 sliding racks at the base of the electrical closet), inverter, and other sparky bits. *I'm not even going to consider solar/lithium until well into the next administration when the nation starts to recover from Brandon's economic destruction.

I also need to get the fridge installed and powered which will require both 120v and 12v drops. Still working on other electrical requirements and changes. I already have my RJ45 and coaxial runs landed. I want to have all my 120v and 12v runs in place but not necessarily landed. That will let me button up the wire race trays and and prep the walls for paint.

I plan on doing some fishing trips starting towards the end of next month. So I need the bed, fridge, and the water system up and running asap. The rest will wait until winter.
Click to expand...
On your water inlets if your pushing city water under pressure into your water tank is the gravity fill outlet going to be your vent/overflow to know when your tank is completly filled ? If you decided to not cut any holes in the wall you could just come thru the floor with a 3/4 hole with pex and a swing lever valve on the end plumbed to garden hose so while your fueling you can hook to the water outlet on the fuel island and be filling your water tank quickly while you fuel at pilots/flying j /loves/ and the j/pilot have black water dumps out front where the campers fuel if you were to need that ! We quit useing gravity fill in the 80s to slow and everwhere you will get water will be under pressure so it wont go in unless its screwed on under pressure. I will post a picture tomorrow of my outlets i dont have a pic on me now . Theres 3 3/4 holes one for inbound water one for the drain / overflow and one half turn pex valve for water under pressure if you need to rinse your hand/feet/ dog / girls you get the gist . I put steel roofing panels in the floor of the 2 doors for your slide in side panels go so i can store alot of stuff come to find out /long stuff
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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chucky said:
On your water inlets if your pushing city water under pressure into your water tank is the gravity fill outlet going to be your vent/overflow to know when your tank is completly filled ? If you decided to not cut any holes in the wall you could just come thru the floor with a 3/4 hole with pex and a swing lever valve on the end plumbed to garden hose so while your fueling you can hook to the water outlet on the fuel island and be filling your water tank quickly while you fuel at pilots/flying j /loves/ and the j/pilot have black water dumps out front where the campers fuel if you were to need that ! We quit useing gravity fill in the 80s to slow and everwhere you will get water will be under pressure so it wont go in unless its screwed on under pressure. I will post a picture tomorrow of my outlets i dont have a pic on me now . Theres 3 3/4 holes one for inbound water one for the drain / overflow and one half turn pex valve for water under pressure if you need to rinse your hand/feet/ dog / girls you get the gist . I put steel roofing panels in the floor of the 2 doors for your slide in side panels go so i can store alot of stuff come to find out /long stuff
Click to expand...
Yeah, the city inlet bypasses the tank. You literally have to throw the lever on the diverter valve inside to access one or the other. Independent lines to that point. And the systems have redundant backflow preventers in multiple locations as needed.

If the lever isn't in the correct possition and you charge the city line, it will let you know via a dump valve ahead of the pressure regulator.

I've had most of this stuff for years now. I just have to assemble it all.

LOL

614vk6e8KkL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
chucky

chucky

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Third From Texas said:
I suppose I could devise a way to fill the tank via city line. But I've read some horror stories of folks blowing out their water tanks if the regulator fails.
Click to expand...
Unless your water tank doesnt have an overflow it should never have pressure in your water tank / mine is just gravity flow from the bottom of sidewall of tank thru pex to the water pump and the pex to the outlets. Is the only thing under pressure while ive got the pump turned on which i dont leave on unless im in need of water or using the camper / either way the rocker switch is rite there on the wall. Im never letting the water pressure from (whatever gardenhose outlet into my plumbing just to fill watertank . And the only way to turn your tank into a football is in winter if the slashing around water freezes in the overflow to the outside freezes in the pipe outside the truck so to be careful when filling your tank in freezing conditions thats why all my fill/overflow pipes come out in the same place and i can run a piece of coat hanger up the ovflo pipe to check for plug but you will feel air pushing out just barely while filling .
 
chucky

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The left hose is drain for winteizing and freshwater overflow the middle valve is fresh water supply line to watertank the far right is to hook a hose to for you to use to wash off what ever / outdoor showerEE5969D8-0B0F-473B-A7FE-E028D71E4E81.png
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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INFChief said:
I’ve been thinking about a generator too. The Army had a 4.2 kw unit that we put on top of M577 Command Posts (M113 chassis). Those put out 28 volts DC and would provide sufficient battery power so we did not need to run the main engine. Have you come across anything smaller but fully capable of providing up to 200 amps?
Click to expand...
I would gut a MEP-952B. Its good for 180 Amps. Box is kinda big.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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coachgeo said:
the suggestion was for Guyfang. but an APU is not a generator. While they may.... typically the dont produce 110v. They produce 12 or 24v along with some other higher priority aux. things.... typically AC and heat so you dont need the drive engine for these.
Click to expand...
Maybe a generator/APU thread is in order?

I don't have an APU in this build/thread. I covered my genset some pages ago.

Just trying to keep things on topic. I don't mind a small hijack, but this is supposed to be a build thread. Or I could change the title and start another that covers the actual build. I'm flexible.

:)
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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chucky said:
Hey man what about an APU ?
Click to expand...
.
You might need an APU.

Sullenberger used his and saved the day on Flight 1549. Out of sequence, he started the APU early and because he didn't kill everybody on the plane - he was a hero - since he took personal initiative.

Had he crashed and killed everyone, that would have been what everybody pointed to as the failure. Ducks Be Damned!
 
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