Tow Bar Pins - Updated

[2deuce]

Looking to buy a set of pins for a med tow bar. I need all 3. Thanks, Greg

 

[M543A2]

Tow Bar Pins

If you are not looking for original appearance, you can make some out of 0-1 tool steel, unheat treated. We have used this steel for farm tractor hitch pins, etc. with no failures. I have a homemade tow bar for the trucks and use this material for my pins. We have towed five ton trucks with it for many miles with no sign of wear on the pins.
Regards Marti

 

[2deuce]

RE: Tow Bar Pins

I would prefer the original look, but might have to make them. Does anyone repro them?
Thanks,
Greg

 

[CGarbee]

RE: Tow Bar Pins

I just get pins from AgriSupply... Not original, but I like the fact that the big hitch pins have handles on them..
Innexpensive, and good...

 

[twright]

tow bar pins

need tow bar pins for med. tow bar. also the pins that hold the two half and the correct pins that hold the feet to tow bar

 

[clinto]

Sermis has a bunch of 3/4" pins in the classifieds.

1" are more difficult, I need a few of those myself.

 

[CGarbee]

I use the heavy duty hitch pins from Agri-Supply in mine... Little bit longer than stock and have a d-loop on one end (handle) that makes it a tad easier to align/move the towbar around.
They have them in all the diameters needed.

 

[M543A2]

You might check at farm supply stores for the pins that go in the clevis on the end of farm hydraulic cylinders. I believe they are 1", but they might not be long enough. A really good selection is available from McMaster-Carr which is McMaster Carr supply company in Chicago. They have pins in incremental lengths from 2" through 6" in length in many diameters including 3/4 and 1". They are called clevis pins, available in plain and stainless steel. Their phone number is 630-833-0300 or 630-600-3600. email is chi.sales@mcmaster.com. A price example: 1" dia. x 4" long is around $4.70. They are listed under "Clevis Pins" in the catalog.
Regards Marti

 

[atankersdad]

Got all my tow bar pins at Tractor Supply. They are about 3/4 longer than the factory pins, but the work just fine and were cheaper than finding NOS.

 

[rideni]

I don't use pins, I use big ole bolts thatt fit with washer and I jam nut them

 

[twright]

thanks for the info

 

[oldMan99]

I know this is an old thread but with the emphasis on using "Search" people are bound to read this in the future... So... Having just read and researched this topic I thought I would update this thread with some important and relevant information.

The Mil-Spec pins that are issued with the tow bar are not just hardware store "Tractor pins" or Grade 8 bolts. Neither Tractor pins or Grade 8 bolts are rated to withstand anywhere even close to the stress that is placed on the tow bar pins. Using either as a replacement for missing Mil-Spec pins is very dangerous and could very well result in severe property damage and loss of life.

The following 2 quotes are both from the thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/safety/63828-towbar-incident-report.html

For safety's sake, please always use the correct pins. We are one of two OEM manufacturers of the 3/4" & 1.00" Medium Towbar Pin assemblies. These pins undergo a lengthy manufacturing process with military grade processing and inspection. This includes:
*Machining the pins from cold drawn steel, grades 1040 - 1050 IAW ASTM A108,
*Heat treating to C 18 - 27,
*Heavy Phosphate Coating & Dry Film Lube..

*Then there is the manufacture of the locking pin and retainer lanyard using military grade aircraft stainless steel braided wire, stainless steel crimped sleeves and an OD coated locking pin.

With that said, I'm not trying to sell pins here, but just giving some insight as to how critical these pins are to safely towing your vehicle.

Also, many people say they like to use grade 8 bolts; (For those that do not know, 3dAngus buys, refurbishes and sells quite a lot of military tow bars so it is very likely he has seen far more of them than most people. Therefore I personally would give his opinion on this matter considerable weight.)

Just be sure you buy original mil-spec pins that come with the towbars, or from a GL auctions.

There are plenty of people out there with them. I would never use a grade 8 bolt, or anything else other than the original mil spec pins specifically tested at the highest standards for these things. You just got to do regular maintenence on pins and towbars, just like you do on your trucks, though it is not something we usually think about. Why? Cause they never go bad.

Also from the same thread and also by 3dAngus he just quoted the above post by NEWVENTURESENTERPRISESINC;

I could not agree with you more on the pins. I just pulled a towbar apart yesterday that had a grade 8 bolt holding the legs together. It was the standard 3/4" size, but grade 8 did not hold up. It had "rings" from wear embedded all the way around the bolt where the bolt would "turn" inside the towbar legs, and it would wear them down. This is the first time I have seen a grade 8 bolt used on a towbar, but I have heard of it before, while I have always encouraged mil-spec pins. Now I know my assumption is correct where mil-spec pins are safer, and better than grade 8 bolts. I will try to put up a picture of the wear later. Thanks for your comments newventures.

Keep in mind that a Grade 8 bolt is far superior in strength than a tractor pin. So.. If your using Grade 8 bolts or especially tractor pins, you may want to upgrade before your next tow bar evolution.

So, there you have it. I hope this post has proven to be useful. As For me personally, I'll be using ONLY proper, true Mil-Spec, pins in my tow bar, especially on the public road system. Or I'll bite the bullet and hire a tow truck.

Note to the mods: When searching for info about the tow bar pins I found more than one post extremely similar to this one. Since this information is equally as pertinent to each of those posts as it is to this one I'll make this same post in each. Not to raise my post count (I mean really, who cares about that?!?) but because it is important and it is literally a critical life/safety issue that merits an update to these posts.

 

[KsM715]

Good thinking oldMan99

 

[oldMan99]

I know this is an old thread but with the emphasis on using "Search" people are bound to read this in the future... So... Having just read and researched this topic I thought I would update this thread with some important and relevant information.

NOTE: EDITED TO CHANGE: Since 2 threads were combined this post has become redundant so rather than use up 1/2 a page with a duplicate post, just ignore this one as it was the same as the post just above that started and ended the same way this one did... And to those that thanked me... Thanks back!!

Note to the mods: When searching for info about the tow bar pins I found more than one post extremely similar to this one. Since this information is equally as pertinent to each of those posts as it is to this one I'll make this same post in each. Not to raise my post count (I mean really, who cares about that?!?) but because it is important and it is literally a critical life/safety issue that merits an update to these posts.

 

[hndrsonj]

I also have mil-spec pins, however, I also do have a set of grade 8 bolts (7/8") with bushings. Alot of the old gassers have the 15/16 holes that a mil-spec pin won't fit through. I wonder did they origionally have 15/16" feet????

 

[cbvet]

Does anyone know who CURRENTLY sells the GI pins?
Or PM me if you have a set to sell.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[73m819]

try these people, thay make the mil. pins

kanderson@newventures.org

 

[gimpyrobb]

$24 each!

 

[3dAngus]

Chris, are you selling for $24 each? or do you mean the OEM is selling for $24 each?

I suspect you mean the OEM. They are located in LaGrange Georgia. I guess they seem high but would probably be cheaper if a bunch of guys. got together and made a quantity buy.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, oem. A call was made and they will only sell what is left over from a batch made for the gov. They will not go lower.