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Thought I had a link to the washers. I dont see the harm in running a galvy washer personally
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Ultimate well nut repair
- Thread starter boatman69
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Triton
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For my washer I got one from TSC that was big enough but I had to drill the inside hole to fit
dav5
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I'm getting old and my memory sucks but I'm pretty sure I just used the washer that was on the original nitrile fitting
m32825
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I found anodized ones in the Grade 8 hardware section of the local blue big box store.
-- Carl
-- Carl
Zed254
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Like in posts #1 and #51 of this discussion??? Those are the only pics / parts lists / installation info that I've seen.
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So I stopped at Lowes this morning for a few things, and wanted to swing by the fastener aisle to locate some 3/4" washers. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-3-4-in-Steel-Machine-Bushing/1000364255
Going to test fit one over the weekend on an 803 that needs the well nut replaced. I think it will work just fine though.
Going to test fit one over the weekend on an 803 that needs the well nut replaced. I think it will work just fine though.
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So before I turn into the incredible hulk on the parts later... if the well nut is rotted, can the whole assembly just be pulled out of the tank, or will I have to remove the metal pieces sticking out, and push it backwards into the tank to remove?
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The whole thing pulls out. I usually use a new well nut and a bolt/washer. Putting the drain back in is a pain.
Howdy,
Go look at the well nut thread. Everything is done from the outside. Simply loosen the threaded fitting and the well nut collapses. Pull it out. When they drain them sometimes, they just whack them off on the MEP-803A units.
Zed254
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Mike's got lots of good info about the well nut on his thread. Here's what one looks like when it needs to be replaced......
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That's normal.
Firebrand
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Normal bad or normal good?
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They all go bad eventually. It's a bad design to begin with. Something sticking out the side is bound to get knocked off eventually.
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Normal bad. Seen way too often. But I firmly believe that if one only uses normal diesel, it might not happen, or last lots longer before it happens. Of course, when you over tighten the thing, its going to tear, no mater what fuel is in it. But that picture shows a well nut that was used with JP8. Lots of people like to use RTV to seal up things. Just try it with JP8. It turns into silly putty.
devilphrog
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When you guys installed the bulkhead fitting, what are you torquing the nut to?
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I bet you a beer, that if you read the first 2-3 pages of this thread, you will have answered your question, yourself. Lots of knowage here if you take a bit of time to read.
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https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ell-Nut-info&p=1924187&viewfull=1#post1924187
You were close Guy
. Too many threads to keep straight on that silly fitting.
You were close Guy
. Too many threads to keep straight on that silly fitting.Howdy,
Hopefully, someone which has installed a bulkhead fitting responds with the proper torque.
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Just ordered two brass fittings from PlasticMart. $17 for both, plus 16 shipping (2/2/201
. Received them in about a week. Since they use an O-ring, I tightened the nut until the O-ring is compressed in the groove, and no more. Since you can't see the O-ring, you have to feel it in the wrench. It will turn easy, and all of the sudden stop. That is when the O-ring is compressed, and the fitting is tight. I put blue Loctite on the threads to keep the nut from vibrating lose. Now I need to get busy and go through the rest of the machine, so I can crank it up and test it. Here is why I bought the fittings.....
Can anyone tell me why my 8 keeps changing into a happy face when I post my reply? Can't seem to edit it out either.
Picked up a 802a off GL in Lockbourne last month with 500hrs. Only paid $580 for it. Makes me wonder what is wrong with it. The storage box contained documents, showing the unit was mothballed for storage 5 years ago. No signs of water damage on the muffler or in the crankcase. Turning the fan turns the engine (only moved it a little, not to scrape the cylinders until I get some oil in there). The only obvious damage was a broken drain well nut on the tank. I am tempted to just add some diesel, and crank it up, but I think I will pull the injectors, and stick a bore scope in there, and soak the cylinders and pistons in Marvel Magic oil first, just in case.
. Received them in about a week. Since they use an O-ring, I tightened the nut until the O-ring is compressed in the groove, and no more. Since you can't see the O-ring, you have to feel it in the wrench. It will turn easy, and all of the sudden stop. That is when the O-ring is compressed, and the fitting is tight. I put blue Loctite on the threads to keep the nut from vibrating lose. Now I need to get busy and go through the rest of the machine, so I can crank it up and test it. Here is why I bought the fittings.....Can anyone tell me why my 8 keeps changing into a happy face when I post my reply? Can't seem to edit it out either.
Picked up a 802a off GL in Lockbourne last month with 500hrs. Only paid $580 for it. Makes me wonder what is wrong with it. The storage box contained documents, showing the unit was mothballed for storage 5 years ago. No signs of water damage on the muffler or in the crankcase. Turning the fan turns the engine (only moved it a little, not to scrape the cylinders until I get some oil in there). The only obvious damage was a broken drain well nut on the tank. I am tempted to just add some diesel, and crank it up, but I think I will pull the injectors, and stick a bore scope in there, and soak the cylinders and pistons in Marvel Magic oil first, just in case.
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