Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

[retro_life]

Maybe you can place a strip of rubber like a bicycle tube or some other form of material between the tank and the strap.

I have some left over heater hose I could try. I will mess with it and see what happens. Maybe the forklift bent it when they were in the process of destroying my driveline

 

[retro_life]

Also, the damn alternator still squeaks after putting ~300 miles on it.

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I wish the guy would’ve just addressed it when I said something when picking it up… anyway I called him and told him and he said to bring it back. Other than the noise they seem to be good though. When I start the truck the generator lights don’t even come on for a second. Before I got them done sometimes the generator lights would stay on until I revved the motor a little.

 

[cucvrus]

The Generator lights are supposed to stay on till you rev the engine a little. And as far as the rattle goes the skid plate is probably bent and making contact with the frame. Take it off carefully and straighten the little L brackets at the frame. Reassemble it with new bolts flat washers and nylock nuts. They are 5/16" bolts and it is mounted as designed it will not make contact with anything to vibrate against. I myself would never hear that slight alternator squeak. It's a CUCV. It is going to make noise. I agree you pointed it out from the beginning. Give the man a chance to fix it. Things go wrong many times. Good Luck.

 

[retro_life]

The Generator lights are supposed to stay on till you rev the engine a little. And as far as the rattle goes the skid plate is probably bent and making contact with the frame. Take it off carefully and straighten the little L brackets at the frame. Reassemble it with new bolts flat washers and nylock nuts. They are 5/16" bolts and it is mounted as designed it will not make contact with anything to vibrate against. I myself would never hear that slight alternator squeak. It's a CUCV. It is going to make noise. I agree you pointed it out from the beginning. Give the man a chance to fix it. Things go wrong many times. Good Luck.

Not sure what they did to the alternators but the lights are off as soon as the motor starts now. Don’t know if that will always happen but that’s how it’s been since I reinstalled them.
I know the squeak isn’t a huge deal but I’m just worried that maybe they either installed a bad bearing or didn’t change the bearing, and I paid good money for the work. Maybe the bearings in these alternators are an oddball size like the pulleys are? I just hope they didn’t reuse a bunch of the old parts and then call it “overhauled” because they didn’t have replacements or something. Also you know by now I’m a little nuts when it comes to little stuff like that. Even though the cucv is loud I feel like I can hear it making noise especially since I know it’s there.

Thanks for the tip on the skid plate I will get under the truck later and give it a good look.

 

[frank8003]

You are like kicking it on this, what turned out to be..... 'a big big job'
We are all impressed.

 

[ezgn]

I have some left over heater hose I could try. I will mess with it and see what happens. Maybe the forklift bent it when they were in the process of destroying my driveline

I would try pushing, pulling, prying, on different areas underneath the truck and see if it changes the vibration. If that does not help then I would bust into the skid plate fix.

 

[retro_life]

Quick question. I’m about to install my new steering stabilizer and im removing the old one. I removed the castle nut but I was wondering if this bolt is also threaded through this rod, or do I just bang it out? I did try to stick a wrench on the backside of it and loosen it out but it’s really frozen in there. I put some PB on it, but I figured I’d ask before I mess something up. Thanks

 

[retro_life]

Gave her a good whack with the ‘ol leatherface hammer and it came out. That tapered bolt was really jammed in there.

 

[ezgn]

Gave her a good whack with the ‘ol leatherface hammer and it came out. That tapered bolt was really jammed in there.
View attachment 840645View attachment 840646

Looks like the original. Does it push in an out easily compared to the new one?

 

[retro_life]

Yeah it’s definitely the original. Thing was frozen in there so bad that it seemed like it was permanently attached. From looking at the new hardware and realizing that it’s a tapered bolt I figured that it was just jammed and needed a little help from the sledge.
Thing is definitely shot, it pulls open with absolutely no resistance, but compressing it closed has some resistance.
The new one has a lot of resistance going in either direction. I’m sure it’s gonna feel night and day once I take it out on the road.

 

[Mullaney]

Yeah it’s definitely the original. Thing was frozen in there so bad that it seemed like it was permanently attached. From looking at the new hardware and realizing that it’s a tapered bolt I figured that it was just jammed and needed a little help from the sledge.
Thing is definitely shot, it pulls open with absolutely no resistance, but compressing it closed has some resistance.
The new one has a lot of resistance going in either direction. I’m sure it’s gonna feel night and day once I take it out on the road.


View attachment 840647

.
Yep. You don't need the info now, but the same tapered bolt in one end just like a tie-rod end. A swift smack on the "rounded" part where the new shiny piece goes through the tie-rod would have made it pop out too.

You will definitely feel a difference driving!

 

[ezgn]

Yeah it’s definitely the original. Thing was frozen in there so bad that it seemed like it was permanently attached. From looking at the new hardware and realizing that it’s a tapered bolt I figured that it was just jammed and needed a little help from the sledge.
Thing is definitely shot, it pulls open with absolutely no resistance, but compressing it closed has some resistance.
The new one has a lot of resistance going in either direction. I’m sure it’s gonna feel night and day once I take it out on the road.


View attachment 840647

Sweet!

 

[ezgn]

By the looks of those zirk fittings a lube job may be an easy task. Just saying!!

 

[retro_life]

I figured since I’m down there I might as well take on the sway bar bushings. I just got the bar off the truck and now I’m attempting to remove the old bushings out of it.
Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[retro_life]

By the looks of those zirk fittings a lube job may be an easy task. Just saying!!

Found a grease gun in my brothers tools! Will go through the front end and lube everything up real good.

Had to use a propane torch to melt some of the rubber and get the bushings out of the sway bar. Now I’m giving it a fresh coat of paint before I put it back on the truck.

 

[cucvrus]

I figured since I’m down there I might as well take on the sway bar bushings. I just got the bar off the truck and now I’m attempting to remove the old bushings out of it.
Thanks for all the help guys.
View attachment 840650View attachment 840651View attachment 840652

I used the sawzall and cut the inner steel bushing. I also used a cutting torch a few times. that makes a huge mess but it works and I always paint everything I have apart. Looks' good.

 

[retro_life]

I used the sawzall and cut the inner steel bushing. I also used a cutting torch a few times. that makes a huge mess but it works and I always paint everything I have apart. Looks' good.

When my brother got home he showed me this air hammer tool he’s got. He said next time I could probably use it to punch the bushing right out. But this time I just did the torch method and they pulled out fairly easily. I know you mentioned you always paint the stuff you work on before, that’s kinda why I started doing it too. Stole a page outta your book . I got the sway bar back on.


I got a little carried away with the grease gun and was going around town lubin’ everyone up when I accidentally broke a nipple off one of the zerks on the top of the axle hub.

It’s actually the one on the other side that broke but it’s that same location. The nipple is stuck in the grease gun fitting too and I wasn’t able to pop it out. I tried Vice grips and everything. Looks like I’ll need to replace the fitting on the grease gun and also replace that zerk on the axle. Do you know what type of zerk I’ll need for it? Luckily it broke off after I already pumped it full of grease.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Found a grease gun in my brothers tools! Will go through the front end and lube everything up real good.
View attachment 840661
Had to use a propane torch to melt some of the rubber and get the bushings out of the sway bar. Now I’m giving it a fresh coat of paint before I put it back on the truck.
View attachment 840662

The previous owner of my 09 torched the flipping sway bar off of it. I didn't even realize it till about 10,000 miles after I had it. I still have not replaced it not really sure how much of a difference it would make for me. That thing is starting to look pretty cherry.

 

[ezgn]

When my brother got home he showed me this air hammer tool he’s got. He said next time I could probably use it to punch the bushing right out. But this time I just did the torch method and they pulled out fairly easily. I know you mentioned you always paint the stuff you work on before, that’s kinda why I started doing it too. Stole a page outta your book . I got the sway bar back on.

View attachment 840691View attachment 840692View attachment 840693
I got a little carried away with the grease gun and was going around town lubin’ everyone up when I accidentally broke a nipple off one of the zerks on the top of the axle hub.
View attachment 840694
It’s actually the one on the other side that broke but it’s that same location. The nipple is stuck in the grease gun fitting too and I wasn’t able to pop it out. I tried Vice grips and everything. Looks like I’ll need to replace the fitting on the grease gun and also replace that zerk on the axle. Do you know what type of zerk I’ll need for it? Luckily it broke off after I already pumped it full of grease.
[/Q

When my brother got home he showed me this air hammer tool he’s got. He said next time I could probably use it to punch the bushing right out. But this time I just did the torch method and they pulled out fairly easily. I know you mentioned you always paint the stuff you work on before, that’s kinda why I started doing it too. Stole a page outta your book . I got the sway bar back on.

View attachment 840691View attachment 840692View attachment 840693
I got a little carried away with the grease gun and was going around town lubin’ everyone up when I accidentally broke a nipple off one of the zerks on the top of the axle hub.
View attachment 840694
It’s actually the one on the other side that broke but it’s that same location. The nipple is stuck in the grease gun fitting too and I wasn’t able to pop it out. I tried Vice grips and everything. Looks like I’ll need to replace the fitting on the grease gun and also replace that zerk on the axle. Do you know what type of zerk I’ll need for it? Luckily it broke off after I already pumped it full of grease.

Did the bushings come with assembly lube?

 

[ezgn]

Take about a 1/4'' drill bit and drill out as much of the rubber around the bushing as you can and then use your air hammer when you do your spring eyelets. Buy some extra assembly lube. Keep going! Now that you got the easy part done you can start on the not as easy parts. Good job, enjoying the journey. waiting for more. Like CUCVRUS said a sawzall with a metal blade will almost certainly be needed to get the metal ring out, eze peze !!