Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

[retro_life]

Yeah it did come with assembly lube. That really sticky stuff that you definitely don’t wanna get on your hands. I used gloves and coated all the bushings before inserting them into the eyelets on the sway bar, then also coated the sleeves before pressing them in. I didn’t apply any on the bushings in the middle that clamp onto the sway bar because I didn’t see the point on those ones.

I’m driving the truck right now and can really tell a difference in the steering wheel. It’s much more firm and precise feeling.

I will throw the Monroe’s on tomorrow and see about ordering the spring bushings. I don’t need to remove the leafs off the truck do I?

 

[ezgn]

Yeah it did come with assembly lube. That really sticky stuff that you definitely don’t wanna get on your hands. I used gloves and coated all the bushings before inserting them into the eyelets on the sway bar, then also coated the sleeves before pressing them in. I didn’t apply any on the bushings in the middle that clamp onto the sway bar because I didn’t see the point on those ones.

I’m driving the truck right now and can really tell a difference in the steering wheel. It’s much more firm and precise feeling.

I will throw the Monroe’s on tomorrow and see about ordering the spring bushings. I don’t need to remove the leafs off the truck do I?

In my most humble opinion you will most assuredly, most definitely, and almost positively, (want) to remove the springs. Getting the bushings,the inner sleeve and the outside steel ring out will require having the springs out. Even if you tried to leave in the U-bolts and do the job in the truck everything is going to be welded in place. Something you can do.

 

[cucvrus]

The previous owner of my 09 torched the flipping sway bar off of it. I didn't even realize it till about 10,000 miles after I had it. I still have not replaced it not really sure how much of a difference it would make for me. That thing is starting to look pretty cherry.

I would get it back on. I know a guy in PA that has some. Let me know what you need. I am cleaning up everything I have and things are flying out the door. Some parts leave on a trailer and others in boxes. But they are all leaving. Trailer trips are recycling trips. New Chevys are being made maybe even a few Toyotas. Even refrigerators. Take Care.

 

[cucvrus]

In my most humble opinion you will most assuredly, most definitely, and almost positively, (want) to remove the springs. Getting the bushings,the inner sleeve and the outside steel ring out will require having the springs out. Even if you tried to leave in the U-bolts and do the job in the truck everything is going to be welded in place. Something you can do.

Sorry to rebut but I would NOT remove the springs. Remove the bolts and lower them up front. Easy and less added unneeded expense and time. The U bolts are fine and don't need replaced. Also the sway bar will fight you so you would be working backwards. The shackle bushings in the rear of the front leaf springs are easy also to change on the truck. You would be doing 2-3 times the work removing the leaf springs to change the bushings. Some jacking and jack stands and you have the access you need. That is just my opinion. Why do more work then you have to. Nothing is gained except more work and expense. Good Luck. Work easy and smarter. Never harder.

 

[GunnyM1009]

I would get it back on. I know a guy in PA that has some. Let me know what you need. I am cleaning up everything I have and things are flying out the door. Some parts leave on a trailer and others in boxes. But they are all leaving. Trailer trips are recycling trips. New Chevys are being made maybe even a few Toyotas. Even refrigerators. Take Care.

I'll get one back on at some point. He's down for a few months right now and I'm slowly working on repairs when I have time and money. I've priced some already just don't have the money to order one currently.

 

[ezgn]

Sorry to rebut but I would NOT remove the springs. Remove the bolts and lower them up front. Easy and less added unneeded expense and time. The U bolts are fine and don't need replaced. Also the sway bar will fight you so you would be working backwards. The shackle bushings in the rear of the front leaf springs are easy also to change on the truck. You would be doing 2-3 times the work removing the leaf springs to change the bushings. Some jacking and jack stands and you have the access you need. That is just my opinion. Why do more work then you have to. Nothing is gained except more work and expense. Good Luck. Work easy and smarter. Never harder.

I agree that it would be a time saver if everything goes right, but working with your head under the frame, fighting getting everything apart, lying on your side and bent over, is not going to be easy. I have never attempted the task leaving the springs in. Give it a shot.

 

[cucvrus]

Once again. I have. If I were to charge a customer to remove his springs to replace the bushings I would be at the price of replacement springs. Heat is all you need. They actually shoot the metal sleeve out the eye hole when they are warm. Now not blazing red hot. But that little bit of heat will not effect anything. But that is the key. Proper use of heat and tools and not abuse and destruction. 3 hours max. Reuse you eye bolts if they are decent or replace them if they are not. Provided they come out. And once again heat is the decider. Good Luck. I have changed many.

 

[ezgn]

Once again. I have. If I were to charge a customer to remove his springs to replace the bushings I would be at the price of replacement springs. Heat is all you need. They actually shoot the metal sleeve out the eye hole when they are warm. Now not blazing red hot. But that little bit of heat will not effect anything. But that is the key. Proper use of heat and tools and not abuse and destruction. 3 hours max. Reuse you eye bolts if they are decent or replace them if they are not. Provided they come out. And once again heat is the decider. Good Luck. I have changed many.

Once again. I have. If I were to charge a customer to remove his springs to replace the bushings I would be at the price of replacement springs. Heat is all you need. They actually shoot the metal sleeve out the eye hole when they are warm. Now not blazing red hot. But that little bit of heat will not effect anything. But that is the key. Proper use of heat and tools and not abuse and destruction. 3 hours max. Reuse you eye bolts if they are decent or replace them if they are not. Provided they come out. And once again heat is the decider. Good Luck. I have changed many.

Good to know. Thanks for the info. I tackled my job by the seat of my pants, just winging it, not really knowing what to expect. If I had to do it all over again I would leave the springs in. I still have the rear passenger side top shackle bushing to put in because I didn't want to remove the exhaust from the manifold. Luckily the drivers side front rear top shackle bushing was the only bushing in good condition. So for now I think the passengers side will hold until I replace it. I bought a new bolt for the passenger side and was thinking about cutting it and sliding the new bolt in from the other side. You can't remove the bolt because it hits the exhaust but once out you can insert the new bolt from the other side. What do you recomend?

 

[cucvrus]

Just cut the bolt and slide it in from the outside. There is no difference. It is a pin that the shackle pivots on. Sawzall. Go wild. Drill the bushings out, burn them out, cut them out. Just don't beat them out you will go nuts and be very unsafe. Good Luck. The bolts are 7/16". They have a 5/8" bolt head with an 11/16" nut. All is well.

 

[ezgn]

Just cut the bolt and slide it in from the outside. There is no difference. It is a pin that the shackle pivots on. Sawzall. Go wild. Drill the bushings out, burn them out, cut them out. Just don't beat them out you will go nuts and be very unsafe. Good Luck. The bolts are 7/16". They have a 5/8" bolt head with an 11/16" nut. All is well.

Thank you sir!!

 

[retro_life]

Just a couple questions for you guys:
I mentioned earlier I broke a zerk on the axle. Is that going to be a SAE zerk for the replacement? I was going to order some from Amazon but wanna get the right ones.

I’m going to install the new shocks tomorrow, any tips or stuff I should know before going into the job?

And also, what do you guys run for your tire pressure? Right now I’m running 40psi all around but am wondering how you guys run your rigs. I’m not gonna be carrying much weight on my journey, just a few plastic bins with my clothes and basic tools.

 

[LT67]

Just a couple questions for you guys:
I mentioned earlier I broke a zerk on the axle. Is that going to be a SAE zerk for the replacement? I was going to order some from Amazon but wanna get the right ones.

I’m going to install the new shocks tomorrow, any tips or stuff I should know before going into the job?

And also, what do you guys run for your tire pressure? Right now I’m running 40psi all around but am wondering how you guys run your rigs. I’m not gonna be carrying much weight on my journey, just a few plastic bins with my clothes and basic tools.

Zerk?

 

[retro_life]

Zerk?

Yeah one of the grease fittings. I was greasing the axle and when attempting to remove the grease gun from the zerk fitting it broke off. I ordered a lock ‘n lube for the grease gun so it hopefully won’t happen again.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Just a couple questions for you guys:
I mentioned earlier I broke a zerk on the axle. Is that going to be a SAE zerk for the replacement? I was going to order some from Amazon but wanna get the right ones.

I’m going to install the new shocks tomorrow, any tips or stuff I should know before going into the job?

And also, what do you guys run for your tire pressure? Right now I’m running 40psi all around but am wondering how you guys run your rigs. I’m not gonna be carrying much weight on my journey, just a few plastic bins with my clothes and basic tools.

The standard is 45 front 65 rear but that's also on the military tires. I imagine it has different tires on it now so those tires may max lower than 65. What's the max psi on the tires your running?

 

[retro_life]

The standard is 45 front 65 rear but that's also on the military tires. I imagine it has different tires on it now so those tires may max lower than 65. What's the max psi on the tires your running?

Yeah that’s what’s spray painted on the fenders, but I figured that would be for hauling heavy loads and would make for a worse ride quality. I’m running the Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/75/16s. I think the max psi on them is 80.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Yeah that’s what’s spray painted on the fenders, but I figured that would be for hauling heavy loads and would make for a worse ride quality. I’m running the Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/75/16s. I think the max psi on them is 80.

Your curb weight is 600 pounds more than my M1009. I run my 33x12.50s at 32psi and never had any excessive where. I would think 40 psi with your heavier curb weight should be a nice decent ride and not wear your tires as long as your not hauling much added weight.

 

[ezgn]

I don't think there is a wrong way or a right way for that particular style shock. Place the top loop on with the nut, then relieve the retainer holding the shock and guide the lower loop into place, secure with nut and torque top and bottom to 65 Ft. Lbs. There is a spacer that comes with It I believe is the front shock, place it next to the bolt hole facing towards the engine and then place the shock top loop next to the spacer and place the bolt through the shock loop, through the spacer, and through the hole where the shock goes and then the nut. I hope I'm explaining it correctly but you will know what to do when you get there, it's pretty self explainable when you see it because without the spacer the shock loop won't fit up to the hole without hitting part of the shock. The shock can be depressed prior to installation if it would be easier for you, the shock can be depressed closed or pulled open without to much difficulty.

 

[cucvrus]

The grease fittings/zerks on a CUCV are standard thread. NOT Metric. I hope that helps. They are available just about anywhere that sell farming and automotive parts. Even hardware stores have a nice selection. Good Luck. Looks Great.

 

[retro_life]

I’m currently installing the shocks. Check this out

Streamable Video

Watch this video on Streamable.

streamable.com

 

[ezgn]

I’m currently installing the shocks. Check this out

Streamable Video

Watch this video on Streamable.

streamable.com

Wow!! Your truck must have rode like ****