Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

[retro_life]

Alright well… I thought it was going to be all downhill from the flywheel job. I was wrong! Re-installing the transfer case on the ground by myself was really damn tough. I got it done though!

I modified my tranny jack and drilled some holes for 1/4-20 bolts and mounted some 2x4s to it to stand the transfer case up.. the only problem is it was too tall to fit under the truck like that so I had to roll it under on its side and then stand it up on the jack when under the truck.

The tranny jack has wheels so it kept wanting to move around while I was trying to stand the transfer case up and I’ll be honest, I almost dropped the damn thing. With all my might I stopped that from happening and got the transfer case standing up on the jack. After taking a few minutes to rest I jacked it up and got it slipped onto the transmission and bolted in!

I know there’s probably better ways I could’ve done it but I’m over here working with what I got and as a one man show.

A beer will taste very good tonight.

 

[retro_life]

Got her out on the road for a little test drive and she’s running great!

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[cucvrus]

You did it. All I did was talk and watch. Great Job. I still think you have a clean truck. Do you still need the 4WD/Oil light filter? Great Job.

 

[retro_life]

You did it. All I did was talk and watch. Great Job. I still think you have a clean truck. Do you still need the 4WD/Oil light filter? Great Job.

Thanks so much for pushing me to do it myself though. I learned so much and I feel much more confident about my abilities.

Yes if you have a spare filter I’d really appreciate it! I will wait to reassemble the dash so I can pop it in. I went with the full covered clear plastic and I haven’t tried fitting the main bezel over it yet, but if it hits like you said I’m sure I can do a little bit of dremel work to make it fit.


I’m still out cruising and everything’s been going great. Truck is real smooth. I just stopped off to take some pics.

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Thanks so much for everything man

 

[retro_life]

I was just checking under the hood after I got back from cruising and I noticed what appears to be a slight wobble on my crank pulley. Is a little play like that normal? The motor is running really smooth when driving but I'm concerned. How does it look to you guys? Should I replace the balancer?

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I also think I need to tighten up all my belts. They're flapping around a little as you can see in the video. I read that the manual says to tighten them to 67 pounds, but I don't have any gauge for that. How tight should they be by feel?

Also, I was going by this thread here for the proper belts for the truck: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/correct-belts-for-m1008-and-m1009.57290/

But are there any other belt sizes you guys prefer to use instead?

Thanks

 

[cucvrus]

Are you sure it is the harmonic balancer and not the pulley? Easy fix is remove the belts and the pulley and just run it briefly to se what is out of alignment.
As far as the belts go I always drive to the parts store with the tools and the truck and walk in and out and get 1 belt at a time and replace them that I must use a box wrench to get the belt on the alternator pulley. Gives me lots of adjustment and the belt is almost at the complete relaxed adjustment for a long time and no SQUEALING. Do as you wish. Also check the pullies and if they have had squealing belts they could be polished and also pitted with rust. I have solid pullies installed at the alternator shop. I have less issues with belts that way. When they are SQUEALING they are wearing rapidly. If they SQUEAL the need attention. Good Luck. Report back. I seen more bent pulleys then loose harmonic balancers. Last week as a test I had my Son pry and beat on an old 6.2 engine balancer I was scrapping and it hardly di any damage. I am sure we could have broke it loose but we were just there loading scrap and I told him to pry and hit it a couple times. I think you will find the issue. If it is the harmonic balancer so be it. Easy fix and the front seal can be changed at the same time. Back to Harbor Freight for a puller. That easy. Be careful working in that area and I would recommend removal of the fan and fan shroud. Only run it a minute to get a full visual. A run out dial indicator is no needed if you say you can see it now. Good Luck again. This is a cake walk for you at this point.

 

[ezgn]

Good job on repairing your issues. Thanks to all the members lending their support to you. Change the balancer and you will be glad that you did. It is an easy job. CUCVRUS is right, take off the fan and shroud and your golden. Your speedometer bounces at 45 MPG might need a look. If you haven't changed the suspension bushings, that will be another project for you to tackle.

 

[retro_life]

Good job on repairing your issues. Thanks to all the members lending their support to you. Change the balancer and you will be glad that you did. It is an easy job. CUCVRUS is right, take off the fan and shroud and your golden. Your speedometer bounces at 45 MPG might need a look. If you haven't changed the suspension bushings, that will be another project for you to tackle.

The Speedo has always bounced around when over 45-50. I lubed the cable and the mechanism on the back of the gauge and it got a little better but still does it. You think it’s the cable or the gauge? Could it also be the gear in the transfer case? That will get replaced when I install the gear vendors OD in a couple weeks.

 

[retro_life]

Are you sure it is the harmonic balancer and not the pulley? Easy fix is remove the belts and the pulley and just run it briefly to se what is out of alignment.
As far as the belts go I always drive to the parts store with the tools and the truck and walk in and out and get 1 belt at a time and replace them that I must use a box wrench to get the belt on the alternator pulley. Gives me lots of adjustment and the belt is almost at the complete relaxed adjustment for a long time and no SQUEALING. Do as you wish. Also check the pullies and if they have had squealing belts they could be polished and also pitted with rust. I have solid pullies installed at the alternator shop. I have less issues with belts that way. When they are SQUEALING they are wearing rapidly. If they SQUEAL the need attention. Good Luck. Report back. I seen more bent pulleys then loose harmonic balancers. Last week as a test I had my Son pry and beat on an old 6.2 engine balancer I was scrapping and it hardly di any damage. I am sure we could have broke it loose but we were just there loading scrap and I told him to pry and hit it a couple times. I think you will find the issue. If it is the harmonic balancer so be it. Easy fix and the front seal can be changed at the same time. Back to Harbor Freight for a puller. That easy. Be careful working in that area and I would recommend removal of the fan and fan shroud. Only run it a minute to get a full visual. A run out dial indicator is no needed if you say you can see it now. Good Luck again. This is a cake walk for you at this point.

I’m really not sure what part is bad. I don’t have any squealing and the motor seems to run pretty smooth to me. Could just be the pulley I suppose.

I will take off all the belts snd the pulley like you said and have a look. I might as well pull off that power steering bracket and get that fixed too. Any recommendation on the puller tool to use for that?



I’m gonna have to pull the steering wheel too because my high beam switch is broken and my reverse light toggle isn’t turning the back up lights on when I’m in reverse.

I also got the dog head relay. Do you do that mod on your trucks?

Thanks!

 

[cucvrus]

I also got the dog head relay.
That's a fargin trick question. NO I DO NOT. Nein, ich weiß nicht. no, yo no. non je ne le fais pas. нет я не

 

[cucvrus]

The reverse switch is easy. it may just be a slight adjustment that will make the lights light in reverse. Try that. Do you still have the tab that extends into the shift tube from the switch. The CUCV back up lamp switch only has 2 wires from stock. The replacement will have 4 and only 2 are used. All is well.

 

[cucvrus]

A large flat washer cut and welded on that bracket will fix that bracket. Do you have the lower bracket from the lower part of the power steering pump to the block just above the oil pan? Check that out and report back.

Ignore RED 13. I am interested if 10, 2 ,9 ,8, and 7 are in place.

 

[retro_life]

I also got the dog head relay.
That's a fargin trick question. NO I DO NOT. Nein, ich weiß nicht. no, yo no. non je ne le fais pas. нет я не

Good thing I asked you about that before installing it. I noticed all the hype about it is from around 10 years ago and wasn’t sure if it was still recommended. I’d rather not cut my wiring but I wouldn’t mind if it meant the truck would benefit from it. Should I pop in a new GM unit just for good measure?

As far as the power steering bracket goes, I believe it is all in tact except for that tab on the top left. It was being held on by the nut and I still have the piece.

 

[cucvrus]

Get a GOOD welder to do the repair. I would add a bit of ply to that area. Do you have the rear lower bracket. And with new batteries and a new starter you have everything covered on the starter relay. I can't be that lucky to have sailed thru 25 + years with issues only when I have weak batteries and a hard starting truck. I think all is well. I have many trucks out there that I built and maintain that are running the stock system. I mean it's worked for 30+ years. I think they have it covered. I did use a plug and play cube relay but never cut the harness. Never. Nie.

 

[retro_life]

Get a GOOD welder to do the repair. I would add a bit of ply to that area. Do you have the rear lower bracket. And with new batteries and a new starter you have everything covered on the starter relay. I can't be that lucky to have sailed thru 25 + years with issues only when I have weak batteries and a hard starting truck. I think all is well. I have many trucks out there that I built and maintain that are running the stock system. I mean it's worked for 30+ years. I think they have it covered. I did use a plug and play cube relay but never cut the harness. Never. Nie.

Yeah I’ll try to find a good welding shop this time—definitely not that last place.

I’m not sure about the rear lower bracket, but I’m thinking everything should be there because the power steering pump is solid and doesn’t move even with that broken tab at the top. But I’ll have to check on it when I get under the hood. It’s raining right now and I have to make a trip to Napa to return that dog head relay.

I’m getting some nice Group 31 batteries for the truck soon also, so batteries will be good and that starter is freshly rebuilt.

 

[cucvrus]

Generic picture of a Chevrolet truck neutral safety switch. The yellow tab sticks into the shift tub. Unclip your switch from the column and see if that tab is still intact. It may just need clicked a little from one side to the other while the switch is attached to the column. No tools needed. It just snaps in place under the dash at the base of the column inside the cab. only 2 wires on the CUCV models for the reverse lights only.

 

[ezgn]

I did the Dog Head modification 8 years ago. Never had any problem since. I have never heard of any problems that anyone has had with their Dog Head conversion. I have heard of a lot of problems that people have had that have not done the conversion. It is a simple project. Do as you wish. Your changing the belts now is the time to do the 35 year old rubber encased Harmonic Balancer. It is a $107.00 dollar part. Be smart and get it done.

 

[retro_life]

View attachment 839483
Generic picture of a Chevrolet truck neutral safety switch. The yellow tab sticks into the shift tub. Unclip your switch from the column and see if that tab is still intact. It may jst need clicked a little from one side to the other while the switch is attached to the column. No tools needed. t just snaps in place under the dash at the base of the column inside the cab. only 2 wires on the CUCV models for the reverse lights only.

Oh ok great, I thought I’d have to pull everything apart to access that. I’m going to have to pull the wheel for the high beam switch though right? High beams are stuck on and I can’t turn it off. Turn signals work great though.

Tried my window washers for the first time yesterday while I was cruising and they work too. Tripped me out lol. Gonna fill that up with rain X.

 

[cucvrus]

No you don't need to pull the wheel for the hi beam switch. Pull the lower column cover and carefully get up under there and remove the fasteners.
This is what the switch looks like it is on the left side of the column. It is a bit tedious working up there but it can be done. That metal clip on the front side must be removed when you install the switch. It slides on the slots to adjust it to the correct tension of the switch. Good Luck. Have a fan to stay cool and be patient. Very easy job. Good Luck.

 

[Hicks]

View attachment 839483
Generic picture of a Chevrolet truck neutral safety switch. The yellow tab sticks into the shift tub. Unclip your switch from the column and see if that tab is still intact. It may jst need clicked a little from one side to the other while the switch is attached to the column. No tools needed. t just snaps in place under the dash at the base of the column inside the cab. only 2 wires on the CUCV models for the reverse lights only.

I was wondering that myself thanks for saying that