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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Davis Welding

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Colorado
Wow...toooooo cool!
Thank you sir!!


Please: you GOT to keep us posted of the progress. :jumpin:
For sure! I am trying to get it moveable so I can trailer it to the State Patrol for a VIN inspection. They used to come to your house and do them but stopped a week ago.... Always a day late and a dollar short!



dual steer? or just the front?
Just the front. I wanted to 4-wheel steering but I am spending the least amount of money on this as I can.


Thats is super cool! Keep the pics coming!8)
Will do!! I am bad about taking pictures. Here is the window..... ;)

IMG_20160620_192835.jpg
 

brianp454

Member
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Location
Portland, OR
Hey thanks Tracer,
I was not aware that Monroe 66104 is the seat shock absorber and Monroe 34787 is the front shocks.
Please let us know if you find a difference in ride quality or drive quality. Also, I find my seat will sometimes top out and bottom out on rough bounces. Have seriously considered replacing the seat shock or doubling them up to prevent the bottom and top out events.
 

Wolfgang the Gray

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
New River, AZ
This is the torque multiplier wrench I used, one handed removal of all studs, glad I got it!
I got one of these as well before I got my Deuce. Haven't used it on mine, but did help 98G a few months ago remove a wheel he was changing tires on. Pulled the lugs off like they were already loose.
 

Wolfgang the Gray

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New River, AZ
Not exactly difficult or new here, but I put a bumper step on the driver's side of my bumper. It was a take off from a deuce being parted out (same with the shackles that are now my lower ones). All of these were from a big "project" lot of stuff I blasted and had powder coated. I'm not sure I saved any/much money on the bumper step, but I like easy projects that are super rusty and clean up well and basically "save" a part few would have wanted otherwise.

As can be seen though, I think the pin (which was very rust pitted) will need to be replaced as it has a little too much slop and allows the step to sag.
That is neat! I didn't know they folded back (mine doesn't have one).
 

Davis Welding

New member
54
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Location
Colorado
I ended up using the deuce dash and trans/tcase covers in the Plydeuce. It's coming along. I need to have it moveable on the 9th for a VIN inspection. The rear suspension is mostly finished. It is a Peterbilt-style low air leaf set up. Simple, great ride quality and easy of maintenance.

IMG_20160803_110237.jpgIMG_20160803_110245.jpgIMG_20160725_203417.jpg
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I ended up using the deuce dash and trans/tcase covers in the Plydeuce. It's coming along. I need to have it moveable on the 9th for a VIN inspection. The rear suspension is mostly finished. It is a Peterbilt-style low air leaf set up. Simple, great ride quality and easy of maintenance.

View attachment 637397View attachment 637398View attachment 637399
Please give some more info on the rear when you can. I'm considering bobbing my A3 deuce and would like to see your geometry. Is there a panhard link?

I notice you call it a Plyduece instead of a Deuce-mouth!
 
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Another Ahab

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Location
Alexandria, VA
Please give some more info on the rear when you can. I'm considering bobbing my A3 deuce and would like to see your geometry. Is there a panhard link?

I notice you call it a Plyduece instead of a Deuce-mouth!

:grin: There's probably somebody around here who deserves that title ("Deuce-Mouth""), but not sure exactly who is the best candidate.
 

Tracer

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Hey thanks Tracer,
I was not aware that Monroe 66104 is the seat shock absorber and Monroe 34787 is the front shocks.
Please let us know if you find a difference in ride quality or drive quality. Also, I find my seat will sometimes top out and bottom out on rough bounces. Have seriously considered replacing the seat shock or doubling them up to prevent the bottom and top out events.
View attachment 637444 Brian454 if your seat is topping and bottoming out your due for a new shock. Try the Monroe 66104 seat shock, I'm sure it will be an improvement.
 
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Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,619
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Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Hey thanks Tracer,
I was not aware that Monroe 66104 is the seat shock absorber and Monroe 34787 is the front shocks.
Please let us know if you find a difference in ride quality or drive quality. Also, I find my seat will sometimes top out and bottom out on rough bounces. Have seriously considered replacing the seat shock or doubling them up to prevent the bottom and top out events.
DSCF1505.jpgI bought 2 Monroe 34787 gas shocks and they bolted up pretty easy with the only problem being that they come out of the box painted school bus yellow. So I prepped the surface and sprayed them both with Krylon Camouflage OD paint, an improvement. Then I installed the Monroe inner rubber grommets and washers on the shocks, jacked the truck up under the front bumper about 1", (Monroe shocks are a touch longer) then compressed the shocks and installed them. Then I used the original stock grommets and washers on the outboard ends because they are thinner, and because the Monroe grommets and washers when used are so thick there are no threads showing to start the lock nuts. With the stock parts I have 3 threads showing with the lock nuts snugged down. Around here we don't have a lot of rough roads, and my truck never goes off road. So to try the shocks I headed east on Hwy 95 where we have a couple of rail road crossings from the Army Depot. With the Monroe shocks at 45/50 mph I can cross the rail road tracks and it feels like I'm in a commercial truck. With the old shocks I feel like I'm bouncing over them. The Monroe shocks are definitely a ride improvement, and I hope they improve front tire wear. Guys I hope this helps.
 

Wolfgang the Gray

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
New River, AZ
Well, it looks like I have my first wrenching project to do on my Deuce. My pre-start check on my first post-retrieval trip revealed a small fluid leak on the front left wheel. Then yesterday I notice the spot was bigger & the brake fluid level in the reservoir was a bit lower. Not wanting to ignore this & being a bit paranoid about the often discussed total brake failure, I want to fix this before it gets any worse.

For a newby wrencher armed only with enthusiasm & the TM, how would you all rate this task, on a scale of "Easy Breezy" to "You better have some who knows what their doing perform this while you watch & ask questions"?IMAG6528.jpgIMAG6578.jpg
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Where did you get the spark arrested? I wanted to take my Deuce into the mountains & I'd sure like to make sure it isn't a fire hazard to the beautiful pines.
Use google (or ebay) and enter "spark arrestor muffler". Walker says it's Forrest Service approved for horizontal or vertical positions.
 

Wolfgang the Gray

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
318
36
28
Location
New River, AZ
I've never used Lizard Skin, but it sounds like bed-liner. I'm considering using bed liner after some more rust treatment with scraping and red primer.
Mine has bed liner in the cab that M35A2-AZ did. It looks great & while I haven't taken the truck in the wet, I also have bed liner (Rhino Coat) on my Jeep & it is like armor.100_3384.jpgIMAG6469.jpg
 
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