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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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wayne pick

wayne pick

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I upgraded the 12v bus today with a Blue Sea 100 Amp marine grade bus bar, Pn # 2304. Plastic cover pn # 2713. I will be installing an ST blade remote fuse block pn#5025 to eliminate the need for in-line fuses for accesories. I will post a build thread on this if there is any interest in it.
 

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jets1959

jets1959

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Lakewood, WA
wayne pick said:
I upgraded the 12v bus today with a Blue Sea 100 Amp marine grade bus bar, Pn # 2304. Plastic cover pn # 2713. I will be installing an ST blade remote fuse block pn#5025 to eliminate the need for in-line fuses for accesories. I will post a build thread on this if there is any interest in it.
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I am interested in a build thread on this!:grd:
 
twlinks

twlinks

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Well, I took my new title to the court house yesterday to get tags. I had asked a lady there last week about inspections and she told me I wouldn't need one on a military vehicle. I doubted that, but thought I'd give it a shot anyway. Yesterday, they said she was wrong and any vehicle coming from another state would require an inspection, so I'll get that done next week on one of the few days/hours they are open. Here in Kansas, all they do is a VIN# inspection, no safety or smog crap here to deal with at least. :grin:
 
panama

panama

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allenhill - that is BAD @$$! the obvious question would be...where did you get that!?! But I have a feeling Napa don't stock those. More details would be nice, however!
 
allenhillview

allenhillview

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panama said:
allenhill - that is BAD @$$! the obvious question would be...where did you get that!?! But I have a feeling Napa don't stock those. More details would be nice, however!
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I ordered panel from RV supplier in Indiana- 60.00, included switches, 8 circuit blade fuse w/lid (100amp) he was real nice to me, he even included the fuses,.

I just sent in a little drawing on paper, he did the rest, included all wiring.

I took a shoe box and a pair of scissors and made a templet, the back is open, the top is only 1" deep, then laid a pre-cut piece of large inner tube down inside to cover what I didn't want to show but yet service someday in distant future.

The panel is even lit via LED bar in green tint as part of assembly.

The finished console is just a piece sheet metal 24 gauge with pop rivets with bent over feet allowance in lay out, vel cro for attachment to floor (some movement for kicking on exit, entry, slip up you know, hasn't happened yet.

Allowed for seat adjustment min. and max.

Brought in 4 gauge from front battery, ground and positive, under seat through drain holes, weather proofed with original plug with center drilled out, loomed all, used stereo guys 60amp fuse(close to battery as possible you'll burn down) and that nice wire they have.

Didn't do all accessories at one time but added over a years time and money allowed. One wire hook up on most all accessories most grounds were at frame. I used upper end switches so has to not need relays, except brake controller (circuit breaker) That rear 12v is for brake away battery on trailers, or anything at rear 12v, it is in plug back there. 12v-Front is in place (used bracket cut templet) of that diagnostic plug in cab who needs that? unplugged in engine bay and sealed with its own coupler (wires removed) caulk strip in between the two.

All took time but that panel was as I said 60.00 Thanks for the thumbs up.
 
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jets1959

jets1959

Member
594
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Lakewood, WA
allenhillview said:
I ordered panel from RV supplier in Indiana- 60.00, included switches, 8 circuit blade fuse w/lid (100amp) he was real nice to me, he even included the fuses,.

I just sent in a little drawing on paper, he did the rest, included all wiring.

I took a shoe box and a pair of scissors and made a templet, the back is open, the top is only 1" deep, then laid a pre-cut piece of large inner tube down inside to cover what I didn't want to show but yet service someday in distant future.

The panel is even lit via LED bar in green tint as part of assembly.

The finished console is just a piece sheet metal 24 gauge with pop rivets with bent over feet allowance in lay out, vel cro for attachment to floor (some movement for kicking on exit, entry, slip up you know, hasn't happened yet.

Allowed for seat adjustment min. and max.

Brought in 4 gauge from front battery, ground and positive, under seat through drain holes, weather proofed with original plug with center drilled out, loomed all, used stereo guys 60amp fuse(close to battery as possible you'll burn down) and that nice wire they have.

Didn't do all accessories at one time but added over a years time and money allowed. One wire hook up on most all accessories most grounds were at frame. I used upper end switches so has to not need relays, except brake controller (circuit breaker) That rear 12v is for brake away battery on trailers, or anything at rear 12v, it is in plug back there. 12v-Front is in place (used bracket cut templet) of that diagnostic plug in cab who needs that? unplugged in engine bay and sealed with its own coupler (wires removed) caulk strip in between the two.

All took time but that panel was as I said 60.00 Thanks for the thumbs up.
Click to expand...
nopicsLOL[thumbzup]
 
bshupe

bshupe

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Mount Vernon, WA
allenhillview said:
jets1959, Here is mine is this form.
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Hey allenhillview: As has properly been said I love the panel. The guy who built it does fine work.

I do have one question though...... whats the point of it? Why do you need a toggle on the side of your seat for all those circuits that should just be on all the time for the most part? Please forgive my ignorance or if this seems cocky, I just dont get it.

Thanks!
 
1ton cucv k5 turbo

1ton cucv k5 turbo

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Castalian Springs, TN
well... this has been on shop floor for days now... Just begging to be installed... But im oncall this weekend, so its anybodys guess if i can get a chance to..


In case your wondering, this is my hydro assist kit from West Texas Offroad. the infamous Redneck Ram.:grd:




Oh and thanks Allenhillview, for the contact info
 

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