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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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colelkhunter

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added a 101 bed to my 1031. Swapped to a spin on fuel filter. Added 37" swamper SSR radials to my truck with major cutting and NO LIFT. Next on the agenda is custom bumpers front and rear as well as mastercraft seats to replace the factory bench. Coming together
 
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finally, my lazy butt can add something worthwhile to this thread... yesterday, i finally had the time and motivation to change oil and filter(went to full synthetic and K&N filter), fuel filter(although considering a spin on filter conversion next time, scared of those common base leaks starting), and all 8 glowplugs. i didnt know for sure any were bad, but i did know for sure that they were 25 yrs old, and N.E. Ohio winters are way to cold to risk it... the change in the cold starting was amazing! no more cranking n waiting to catch. just go out in the morning and hit the key after WAIT light is out, and shes running... life is gonna be a little easier now... still need to change transfercase and diff fluids, flush tranny and change filter, and flush cooling system, replace hoses, and install the in-hose block heater (in addition to the oilpan heater i put on, but havent used yet)... then comes suspension bushings and lift... i hear alot of differing opinions about using full synthetic oil, but even a remote chance of any extra protection, performance, or fuel economy seems worth the extra $12 bux per oil change...
 

1986Blazerk5

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I had a electric fuel pump installed, solved my problem with the fuel drains back down the line, i would recommend installing one it solves ALOT of problems with the mechanical fuel pump letting fuel drain back and causing the vehicle to be hard to start.
 
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I had a electric fuel pump installed, solved my problem with the fuel drains back down the line, i would recommend installing one it solves ALOT of problems with the mechanical fuel pump letting fuel drain back and causing the vehicle to be hard to start.
Care to do a little writeup of the install in another thread? I've been contemplating doing this as well for the reasons you mention. Could be really helpful for others as well.
 

jeffhuey1n

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replaced glow plugs, much better starting. Used AC Delco 60G plugs. Before the change: turn key, click....slow click....click....slow click, try to start, fail miserably, start all over. New plugs: turn key, power drop for a few seconds, start engine, no problem. Power drain lasts about another 5 seconds then shows in the green.

Almost forgot, the back plug on the passenger side can only be removed from underneath and the 60G plugs have slightly wider electrical connection.
 
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K9Vic

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Almost forgot, the back plug on the passenger side can only be removed from underneath.......
I have replaced glow plugs on 5 CUCV trucks and I remove all of them from above. I have to use a ladder to get over the inside there, but there is no need to get underneath the truck to remove that one. I have also changed the injectors on a M1010 and removed the back passenger one from the top. That was tricky, but did not have any major problems with getting access from the top.


Anyways, glow plugs are a good idea for anyone to change for the winter. Also a manual over ride just in case as you never know if you will need it.
 

motorman

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it has been getting colder down here in the south with morning temps 18 - 22 and it felt like the starting relay was starting to 'stick' a little and i did not want to toast the starter

so yesterday i executed the Doghead satrter relay modification . . . a al Warwag with heat shrink tubing and liquid tape.

seems to start better

thanks gents
 

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The G Man

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roflI have done so much to mine...and barely getting started:

Replaced Trans Pan and changed filter. Pan had permanent drain installed by GL forklift
Replaced doo pushed in with I guess same fork lift
Did rough push out bdy work to last thru winter...Doesn't look that bad after a complete rattle can paint job. Hope to straight body more anf give it a gun paint job next year.
Installed rear sliding glass window
Tinted windows with some old tint had in barn
Added cigarette lighter
Replaced leaking heater core and all coolant hoses
replaced vaccum lines to trans
Installed battery cutoff switch
replaced glowplug relay
installed glowplug bypass switch
replace fan clutch
replaced all belts, oil change and gearboxs serviced
Installed toolbox I fabricated in bed with quick release bolts 3 of them can remove in 5 minutes, used bolts studded thru bed. and have to do is remove nuts from inside box, and install nuts back on studs to keep from messing threads up.

Removed new fiberglass racks from M105 trailer modified them so they fit. Includding bows.
Installed 36 hummer trires
put 2" spacers behind wheels
Also did alot of other little stuff
Install block heater in lower radiator hose. ( Can tell with cold weather we've been having saves alot of wear on starter and glowplugs)

Still have alot to do, hoping to do that great starter relay mod next week.
When get the cash got to do something about Trans: I have no reverve, but goes forward great. Just have to be careful picking parking spots.

Also want to install Solargizer. I still use a DA 2404, at least now I have it down to 3 pages of things I want to do to it.. Its all good and a **** of alot of fun.
 

The G Man

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Would like to say yes. However have not drove it enuff to tell if fuel mileage is going up any. I know the times I have put them on my gas cars and trucks I always got over a mile more per gallon. On my 2009 F-150 it went up 2.1 per gallon. That helps it pay for itself pretty fast
 

jeffhuey1n

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Tested second STE/ICE-R VDM. Op CK Good. Interesting note: If you find one of these incomplete, if I read the manual correctly, you only need the VDM and the W1 cable. all the widgets are already installed in the newer MV's, i.e. CUCV. If you have an M35 or other older MV, you need the widgets. BTW, the second one only had the VDM and a couple cables and a few bits and pieces. Knew what it was and wanted it for parts. Didn't expect an operational VDM, so very happy with buy:D:D
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I have replaced glow plugs on 5 CUCV trucks and I remove all of them from above. I have to use a ladder to get over the inside there, but there is no need to get underneath the truck to remove that one. I have also changed the injectors on a M1010 and removed the back passenger one from the top. That was tricky, but did not have any major problems with getting access from the top.


Anyways, glow plugs are a good idea for anyone to change for the winter. Also a manual over ride just in case as you never know if you will need it.
I'd say that for 99% of the folks, going from the top would be the way to go. Unfortunately I fall into the 1%, both wrists were broken in a fall and no longer move like they should. With the Battery in the way and the odd position required of the wrist, I cannot reach that plug. At 6'6" I don't need a ladder, I need mobility. After 30 minutes of trying, I figured there had to be another way to get at that plug. Nice hole factory made right under that spot on the engine, just reach up and poof, out it came. new one weren't as easy going in, seem to have a hole finding problem:oops:. Got it in, plugged the wire in and she started right up. Made me a happy camper, got the job done despite my imperfections.
 

Cucvnut

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Bought a M1008 today

Came from an airport in Beverly MA

Drove it home 30 Miles with no problems.

Tomorrow it will get new batteries(dead) and all the fluids will be changed.

New glowplugs will follow and the the starter relay.

missing anything major?
check your king pin springs
 
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