What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[ratspawn]

I like the look, both the lift and the tires. What lift kit did you use...easy/hard, etc.? We always need "details"...or at least it really helps me I know. Thanks

Twlinks , yes of course man. My bad. I can’t really say how easy it was because I had it done. By 4Wheel Parts. They were good guys, and I can recommend, at least in my area. It is a ProComp 2.5” stage I lift – new leafs in the front, blocks in the rear, and new shocks (ES3000) all the way around (I deliberately left the boots off the shocks). Plus all the U-bolts, brackets and other hardware of course. I had it done because I am in the middle of a move and don’t have anything resembling a shop at either location, but I got under there and saw what they did and it is very straightforward. With the right jacks you, a buddy and a six pack, could knock something like this out in a Sunday afternoon with a football game going on in the background. I’ll attach a couple pics of the underside. Raw components were $480, if you want to do it yourself, which I think you can. After install, alignment, tax and whatever other crap I think it was $938 OTD for the lift.

The tires were not cheap. I didn’t get in on a sale or anything like that, pretty much full-bore retail. They were just under $1,300 OTD. So, > $2,000 for this little project, which is more than I paid for the **** truck! $2K is real money for a guy like me but I really wanted the suspension and tires squared away before I started dragging around that trailer I’m going to go get (M116A3 chassis). The front passenger leaf was shot, it leaned heavily, and the tires were all mismatched, out of balance, dry-rotted, worbaly, and just generally crap. After this investment though all future projects will be DIY and on a budget. Which is again why i am thankful for this site.

To the poster above, thank you for the heads up on the Nitto’s and their propensity to hydroplane. I will approach standing water accordingly. I once wrecked a beautiful ’67 Mustang due to hydroplaning. Do not want.

 

[twlinks]

ratspawn, thanks for the details and the pics.

 

[319]

Slipped cardboard beneath the motor to catch the oil dripping from the rear main seal. Crap!!! Bought the seal and sealant, going to tackle it this week.

 

[hillbillygmc]

Cut out some rot on the tailgait and welded in fresh sheet metal. Tomorrow's bondo and paint of the tailgait should be the last bit of body work that I'll have to do.

 

[06TBSS]

Last weekend I picked it up from local shop, got a 14FF done, 8 lug stuff all around, Already had new tires on 15" so I went cheapo route w $74 Bart super truckers from Summit 15/10", regeared truck to 3:73 F/R. FR is locked but rear is still open(cheap cant complain)

rear 10bolt is of course the silliest thing on these trucks. Mine lasted maybee 1200 freeway miles w 35's before the single pinion bearing wallowed out and the guts tore themselves apart. Now im in the 3 pinion bearing club w 10.5 ring gear and we can move on w some rig mods above the axles.

 

[hillbillygmc]

Went outside and took these pics. That's all I did today. Almost completed. I may feel almost sad when it's finished.

 

[txmytx_catahoula]

Just about have my water pump replaced. WHY does this have to be a PITA??? Passenger side alt. removed, power steering pump removed, and that little tiny hose connection on the top so I can the LAST bolt out! REALLY??? Bout done!

 

[CAVman]

Had the inside bedlined. Makes it really nice.

 

[I_Publius]

I am curious about your bed lining. Did you do it yourself or did you have somebody do it?

 

[CAVman]

I had someone do it. I lack time or skill

 

[K9Vic]

On my CUCV Suburban clone that is a 6.2L diesel I was trying to tighten the power steering belt and I broke it. I must of missed a bolt or it was not loose enough and when I moved he pump it broke the seal on the case where the two sides come together. So I have it out and waiting for the part to arrive as it had to be ordered.

I also have a fuel leak on the filter base that I am changing out to a spin on filter and have everything ready to swap out with a Stanadyne system. I also think the fuel leak is why my mileage was so bad.

So work on my M1009 is delayed while I fix the Suburban.

 

[K9Vic]

I am curious about your bed lining. Did you do it yourself or did you have somebody do it?

When you get your M1009 done and are interested in bed lining the inside I have a guy here in Hurst that I used for that. He has lined two vehicles for me now, a M1009 and Suburban and they look great. Perfect level of the lining and no over spray. The price is not cheap compared to a bed liner as he has to mask everything and that cost more labor. But when you look at the cost of a floor pad from LMC for like a Suburban, it is cost not much more. You should be able to get a M1009 done for $400-$500 depending on how much pre-work you do and bare metal is fine, do not prime or paint it.

 

[I_Publius]

So, I'm assuming I need to get the interior sanded down to the bare metal and then have him do it. What about the outside? I'm thinking about getting crazy and doing that, at some point, as well. I know..I know...not original, but it sure sounds cool!!

 

[K9Vic]

So, I'm assuming I need to get the interior sanded down to the bare metal and then have him do it. What about the outside? I'm thinking about getting crazy and doing that, at some point, as well. I know..I know...not original, but it sure sounds cool!!

No it does not have to be bare metal, just that if you sand it down to clean rust and other stuff leaving the bare metal left is fine. For where there is current paint all you need to do is scuff it down to clean up any dirt and such. The surface just needs to be rough to hold the liner without any clear coating, wax, etc. When he does a bed he scuffs it down and sprays the liner. He uses Bullet Liner that is just as good if not equal to LineX.

 

[86m1028]

So, I'm assuming I need to get the interior sanded down to the bare metal and then have him do it. What about the outside? I'm thinking about getting crazy and doing that, at some point, as well. I know..I know...not original, but it sure sounds cool!!

Did you get it running ?
I never heard back from you.

 

[JSF01]

I was changing the oil when I noticed this plugged rubber hose that at the bottom was partially broken. it's held in place by the same bolt as the upper radiator hose. Does any one know what it is suppose to be for, and if it is something that is fine being plugged? Edit* I am not sure if that's exactly a plug, the tip is a plastic cap so it might be some sort of regulator

 

[Warthog]

Front axle vent. They put it up high so hopefully water wouldn't get inside the axle. There is one above the fuel tank for the rear axle and also one for the transmission and transfer case.

You should really get that fixed. TM 9-2320-289-34P has some great pictures of how they are setup.

 

[JSF01]

I already a temp fix for it, I cut of the bottom and reattached it, since there was enough hose on that line.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

I installed the Doghead relay in the 1028, and changed out a faulty headlight dimmer switch on the column. Also since it has a jerry can holder on each side of the bed near the tailgate you could not fold down the back 2 troop seats, so I changed out the legs on those for the shorter size ones.

 

[FatBuddhaBoo]

Painted the interior portion and window seal region of the doors Behr 383 Green. Removed old driver side wing vent that I broke several weeks ago and installed new one from the local junk yard; still have to install the lock assembly in the window, but having a heck of a time getting the slip pin out. Installed all new window seals on both cab doors, including the wing vents...what a pain these were!

Also scored a replacement glove box that had a good plastic hinge and the under side plastic trim for the steering column, which will be installed tomorrow.