What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Finnegan1008]

Try adding some Power Service in the gray bottle. Don't be afraid to pour it in on the heavy side of recommended rate. Easy to see if it helps!

I’ve been adding opti-lube and I think it’s making a difference in my truck. Seems to start faster and idle smoother.

 

[Another Ahab]

Realized it’s finally time to take off injection pump for a rebuild.

Not looking forward to this………

Getting started.

And you're halfway done

(Somebody's quote, but I can't recall who)

 

[The FLU farm]

Getting started.

And you're halfway done

Been meaning to find out where/why the pump on the M1008 is leaking (other than because the vent line is plugged) for years.

How close to done am I? After all, they say that the first step is to admit that you have a problem. No idea who said that.

 

[Another Ahab]

How close to done am I? After all, they say that the first step is to admit that you have a problem. No idea who said that.

Pretty sure that it was NOT George Armstrong Custer. But that's all I got.

 

[87cr250r]

The hardest part about doing the injection pump is getting the intake manifold bolts out. They're the double ended ones and if the bolt breaks loose before the but does you have to figure out how to get a wrench under th fuel like bracket. I make sure to torque them during assembly and then a light snug on the nut.


Take your fuel lines off in pairs. Don't undo the brackets that between lines.

 

[Tinstar]

Update on my losing power issue.

Drove it yesterday and she starts right up and no issues whatsoever until you need to put your foot into it a bit.
Problem was worse. Not a lot but noticeable.
Exhausting every possible failure point before IP removal.

Is my fuel pump going out?
I cracked the bleed screw and cranked it (pink wire off) and no issues there. Great fuel flow

Used bore scope to check for water in fuel tank and condition of pickup sock.
Everything fine there……

I installed another new wix fuel filter.
Bingo!!

Truck runs normal now and plenty of power, well….., for a CUCV.
Clearly my almost new wix fuel filter that was installed a few months ago was bad.
Why? Didn’t have a clue.

Disassembled the “bad” filter and discovered the issue.
The paper filter element is held into place with some sort of really strong glue.
Some of this glue had somehow gotten out of place and blocked the fuel intake port just ever so slightly.
Don’t know why problem seemed worse, but just a different day’s perception

Random quality failure.
I didn’t take pics unfortunately

Best part!!
I don’t have to take my IP off just yet. !!

This is the first problem I’ve ever had with wix.
I will continue to use them and will probably never have an issue again.

Edit;
I am planning this fall having the pump rebuilt.
I have a complete set of NOS fuel injection lines in case one doesn’t cooperate during removal.

 

[antennaclimber]

I think you should still change out the IP. This way you will know how to do it when the time comes.....

Glad to hear that you found the issue!

 

[Tinstar]

I think you should still change out the IP. This way you will know how to do it when the time comes.....

Glad to hear that you found the issue!

Absolutely agree.
Planning on it this fall.

 

[antennaclimber]

Let me know when you are changing it out, maybe Ill stop by with my lawn chair and supervise.

 

[Tinstar]

Since you’ve done at least 4, not a bad idea!!

 

[Another Ahab]

Update on my losing power issue.

Clearly my almost new wix fuel filter that was installed a few months ago was bad.
Why? Didn’t have a clue.

Disassembled the “bad” filter and discovered the issue.
The paper filter element is held into place with some sort of really strong glue.
Some of this glue had somehow gotten out of place and blocked the fuel intake port just ever so slightly.

Glad for you, Tinstar, that you solved that problem.

Life is good when a problem has a clear-cut resolution. Not always that easy. Good, though, when it is; you know?!

 

[BIGHOSS]

today was a good one for you guys--- some redneck engineering !
the DASHBOARD /DASHPAD
i had replaced the dashpad when i got the truck as some genius glued carpet to the previous dash and no im not vacuuming my dash ,, i clean my truck with a leaf blower!
anyway,,, those shitty clips that mount to the bottom of the dash pad then clip into the skeleton --- suck an entire bag of dicks ..
so i ran hose clamps thru the slots on the bottom of the dash,, lined the clamps up with the holes in the skeleton and then used 6" pieces of 3/8 pex through the clamps sticking through the skeleton ,, and then tightened the hose clamps down... no more bouncy bouncy dash .. there are 26 slices on my hands and arms but the rattles are all gone.

 

[patracy]

I went last night to Dacula from where I live and back in the CUCV. Picked up a big block and 4l80e with the crane. I took my time getting there and back and simply let it cruse at 2800rpm. Ended up pulling 14.5mpg! I'm really gonna have to see about swapping in one of the 4l80s into it and my HMMWV.

 

[Tinstar]

M1008A1

Had what initially I thought was a dying starter.
Acted and definitely sounded like it.
Voltage showed good.
Hawker battery’s.

Fast forward a few weeks (I do not drive it daily anymore) and issue still getting worse.
Spare starter ready to be installed.

Went to start it to move inside and replace starter, but this time, the voltage showed just a touch low.
Using a meter and load tester discovered that the rear battery was at 11.2 voltage.

Constant charge of 10A voltage was applied for about 3 days.
(Edit: Initial charge of 2A was used for about 12 hours. Then up to the 10A setting.)

Then using a NOCO 5A smart charger for another two brought it back to full charge.

Charge is holding just fine and truck starts great.
New starter not needed.
Also rotated the battery’s front to back.

I assumed (I know, I know) that the battery’s were fine just by looking at the voltmeter and a digital voltmeter in the 12v supply port.
I was complacent and frankly lazy by not immediately checking with a load tester and DMM when the issue first started.

Have a NOCO 5A dual battery charger installed so now truck is plugged in when not in use.

I was lucky and saved the very expensive Hawker battery.

Lesson learned

 

[Mainsail]

Ever since I've owned the M1109, so 14 years or so, about three or four times a year:

Turn the key, hear the bendix fire, then bog down like it cannot turn the engine.
Release the spring tension on the key back to RUN, then reengage and it starts normally.

It happened too infrequently to worry about, and always started normally on the second attempt.

Now that I have it listed for sale that's all it does. I hear the bendix pop and it very slowly cranks, but unlike a low battery condition it keeps right on cranking slowly.... cranking.... a little faster... little faster .... then fast enough to almost start.... almost a full minute of this and it'll finally start. I'm sure it's abusive to the starter.

I haven't been driving it much so I'm wondering if the starter brushes are corroded and need a good clean?

I'll load test both batteries today first.

 

[Mullaney]

Ever since I've owned the M1109, so 14 years or so, about three or four times a year:

Turn the key, hear the bendix fire, then bog down like it cannot turn the engine.
Release the spring tension on the key back to RUN, then reengage and it starts normally.

It happened too infrequently to worry about, and always started normally on the second attempt.

Now that I have it listed for sale that's all it does. I hear the bendix pop and it very slowly cranks, but unlike a low battery condition it keeps right on cranking slowly.... cranking.... a little faster... little faster .... then fast enough to almost start.... almost a full minute of this and it'll finally start. I'm sure it's abusive to the starter.

I haven't been driving it much so I'm wondering if the starter brushes are corroded and need a good clean?

I'll load test both batteries today first.

.
I'm guessing you have the back end support for the starter?
I mean you've been at it for 14 years, so surely you have that installed?

 

[Mainsail]

.
I'm guessing you have the back end support for the starter?
I mean you've been at it for 14 years, so surely you have that installed?

I honestly never looked, despite all the drama about it. The truck never failed to start so I figured it must be there, or it wasn't really necessary.

 

[The FLU farm]

M1008A1

Constant charge of 10A voltage was applied for about 3 days.
Then using a NOCO 5A smart charger for another two brought it back to full charge.

Ideally you should charge with only a few amps for a couple of days, then up the amperage.

Of course, most smart chargers/maintainers won't activate when the voltage is too low, but can be tricked into charging by hooking up a good battery in parallel for 15-20 minutes.

 

[Tinstar]

Ideally you should charge with only a few amps for a couple of days, then up the amperage.

Of course, most smart chargers/maintainers won't activate when the voltage is too low, but can be tricked into charging by hooking up a good battery in parallel for 15-20 minutes.

I watched a Hawker rep on YouTube explaining how to bring one back.
I did use a lower amperage for a bit then the 10A setting for the longest time of charge.
Battery was very warm but never really hot during the charge. You could keep your hand on it.
I know it wasn't per the manual but it worked.

I’m now ready if I have to ever do it again.

 

[Another Ahab]

I watched a Hawker rep on YouTube explaining how to bring one back.

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