- 1,400
- 1,084
- 113
- Location
- State College, PA
Don't hold your breath!!!
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
- 4,500
- 2,535
- 113
- Location
- East of Edmond, Oklahoma
One of these days I’ll have a trailer like yours.
I only own 3 M101A2’s.
Yep…….someday.
LT67
Well-known member
- 667
- 515
- 93
- Location
- Bowdon, GA
What did I do to my 86' M1008 aka the 
box truck? I threw more money at it
*Ordered a custom programmed ECU and wiring harness from Howell EFI. It should be here this week.
box truck? I threw more money at it*Ordered a custom programmed ECU and wiring harness from Howell EFI. It should be here this week.
Chevyguy27
New member
- 6
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Warner Robins Ga
I have the exact same pulley and belts on my M1028. I haven’t had any belt squeal or had to tighten the belts in over a year, and I drive my truck weekly. Definitely a great upgrade!
- 4,500
- 2,535
- 113
- Location
- East of Edmond, Oklahoma
Installed Anti-Mouse device.
- 888
- 704
- 93
- Location
- Cooperstown NY
So the myth is true; the M1008 is a pussy magnet
Last edited:
- 4,500
- 2,535
- 113
- Location
- East of Edmond, Oklahoma
There were three up there but by the time I got my phone out only that one stayed.
- 1,926
- 1,210
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
Got all the ancillary systems completed on the driver's side of the new drivetrain prior to re-installing the inner & outer fenders next week.
CARC686
Well-known member
- 408
- 704
- 93
- Location
- New Mexico
Please post videos of this thing running when it's complete. This is one of the more impressive machines I've seen in my life.
- 10,882
- 813
- 113
- Location
- Appomattox, VA
Finally got around to tearing into the M1009, I have to have it running better etc. before the Graves Mtn. rally on Labor Day weekend.
Removed all the remaining radio racks and stuff from the back. They will be reinstalled over the wintertime once I get some other interior stuff done. I plan to repaint it and get new floor coverings in there first to replace the (mostly) missing rubber mat and padding.
PO or somebody put a new dash in it, it's gray. I like the fact that it's in great shape. Not diggin' the gray color. I might see if I can dye it burgundy or something to better match the original. Note the vent openings in it, but not the hole and bracket where the VRC switch box needs to mount.
Another project, the stupid riv-nuts. All the bolts are out except three, which are seized to the riv-nuts and the nuts just spin. Who invented these things?
Next weekend - fuel filter system upgrade and draining the 10-yr-old diesel out of the tank. Fun times in 90% humidity...
Removed all the remaining radio racks and stuff from the back. They will be reinstalled over the wintertime once I get some other interior stuff done. I plan to repaint it and get new floor coverings in there first to replace the (mostly) missing rubber mat and padding.
PO or somebody put a new dash in it, it's gray. I like the fact that it's in great shape. Not diggin' the gray color. I might see if I can dye it burgundy or something to better match the original. Note the vent openings in it, but not the hole and bracket where the VRC switch box needs to mount.
Another project, the stupid riv-nuts. All the bolts are out except three, which are seized to the riv-nuts and the nuts just spin. Who invented these things?
Next weekend - fuel filter system upgrade and draining the 10-yr-old diesel out of the tank. Fun times in 90% humidity...
- 4,500
- 2,535
- 113
- Location
- East of Edmond, Oklahoma
They make really good vinyl paint now.
Watched a few YouTube videos about it.
The more expensive ones are worth the price.
Your old diesel will make great weed killer
M1009s are getting really scarce. Yours looks to be worth the effort.
Watched a few YouTube videos about it.
The more expensive ones are worth the price.
Your old diesel will make great weed killer
M1009s are getting really scarce. Yours looks to be worth the effort.
Spence
Member
- 30
- 78
- 18
- Location
- Massachusetts
I worked on getting my M1010 to start. It’s been down since last year and I have spent a lot of time trying to diagnose why it keeps blowing a fuse under the hood.
A previous owner had installed an in-line fuse holder that holds a 30 amp fuse and it pops as soon as I turn the key to “on.”
In diagnosing, I found the starter wires were loose and ended up stripping the threads on the small stud the purple wire goes on. I bought a new solenoid to swap but it is not the same. I can’t get the old solenoid off anyways. Removed the 4 bolts and spent some time pulling it but it only goes as far as it can while the starter gear slides out then stops.
When I got the ambulance, it was converted to 12 volts and was lacking a starter. It also had a ton of extra wiring for EMS lights and siren. The lights and siren were wired in without splicing to the original harness but the original harness had a lot of wires that were butchered, including wire nuts to cap wires. I removed the light
I have the original 24 volt starter, both original alternators, the resistor that mounts on the firewall, etc. The Duvac was missing and is why I speculate it was converted. I also installed a 12 volt Leece Neville alternator on it to get it going. However, I really want to restore the truck to be dependable and have a working cab heater and AC.
My plan is to remake the original wiring harness, install the 24 volt stuff, and enjoy it as it should be. I am on the fence about whether to buy a duvac or find something that would be equivalent. I know the duvac is a common problem, so I have to figure out how I can support the
A previous owner had installed an in-line fuse holder that holds a 30 amp fuse and it pops as soon as I turn the key to “on.”
In diagnosing, I found the starter wires were loose and ended up stripping the threads on the small stud the purple wire goes on. I bought a new solenoid to swap but it is not the same. I can’t get the old solenoid off anyways. Removed the 4 bolts and spent some time pulling it but it only goes as far as it can while the starter gear slides out then stops.
When I got the ambulance, it was converted to 12 volts and was lacking a starter. It also had a ton of extra wiring for EMS lights and siren. The lights and siren were wired in without splicing to the original harness but the original harness had a lot of wires that were butchered, including wire nuts to cap wires. I removed the light
I have the original 24 volt starter, both original alternators, the resistor that mounts on the firewall, etc. The Duvac was missing and is why I speculate it was converted. I also installed a 12 volt Leece Neville alternator on it to get it going. However, I really want to restore the truck to be dependable and have a working cab heater and AC.
My plan is to remake the original wiring harness, install the 24 volt stuff, and enjoy it as it should be. I am on the fence about whether to buy a duvac or find something that would be equivalent. I know the duvac is a common problem, so I have to figure out how I can support the
Spence
Member
- 30
- 78
- 18
- Location
- Massachusetts
Rivnuts that spin are a drag. I assume getting to the back to hold them with a vice grip isn’t possible? If not, it might be worthwhile to tack them with a welder to keep them captive and remove the bolts or drill them out. If you have a welder handy or know someone who does.
- 1,926
- 1,210
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
You can take a small die grinder and remove the outer lip of the spinning rivnuts and then simply push it inwards to expose the hole. Then just install a new Rivnut in the same hole. So easy a Cave Man can do it.
- 1,926
- 1,210
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
Got the intercooler mounted and partially plumbed. I used a Hayden #1268 with a BTU cooling capacity of 31,200.
- 1,926
- 1,210
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
Finished installing the main parts of the Supercharger. The intercooler is an ambient pressure closed coolant system. The switch-operated 24v pump will mount on the driver's side inner fender and circulate 9.7 gallons-per-minute of 50/50 Prestone through the heat exchanger in the intake and the Hayden #1268 intercooler in the grille. More details in my rebuild thread.
- 10,882
- 813
- 113
- Location
- Appomattox, VA
Spent the morning removing the batteries for the fuel filter upgrade, vacuuming and cleaning out the top of the intake manifold and the space between the radiator and the grille that had accumulated a lot of squirrel nuts and bird nest junk from it's hiberation at my former location. Must've been 20 pounds of pine needles and leaves jammed in there. The radiator should breathe better now.
Found these two loose connections, one looks like a vacuum line not connected to anything, center rear of the engine. Other is a wiring connection driver's side against the firewall. Anyone know off the top of their heads what they need to be connected to?
Also scraped off the front bumper markings, I'll need to get some stencils now. There are some other obliterated markings underneath them, but the last owners were:
101 ABN 101 AVN BN HQ10
First block is 101st Airborne. Last block of letters is a little confusing, as there is a 101st Combat Aviation Brigade, not a Battalion, so not sure the discrepancy. Headquarters truck #10. The unit structure I only see the current organization, so maybe someone familiar with the 101st structure from the 1990s when this truck was last in service, if you can chime in I appreciate it.
Found these two loose connections, one looks like a vacuum line not connected to anything, center rear of the engine. Other is a wiring connection driver's side against the firewall. Anyone know off the top of their heads what they need to be connected to?
Also scraped off the front bumper markings, I'll need to get some stencils now. There are some other obliterated markings underneath them, but the last owners were:
101 ABN 101 AVN BN HQ10
First block is 101st Airborne. Last block of letters is a little confusing, as there is a 101st Combat Aviation Brigade, not a Battalion, so not sure the discrepancy. Headquarters truck #10. The unit structure I only see the current organization, so maybe someone familiar with the 101st structure from the 1990s when this truck was last in service, if you can chime in I appreciate it.
Attachments
- 398
- 652
- 93
- Location
- Inverness, Florida
The vacuum line goes to the VRV on the Injector pump. Lower position. This provides vacuum to the transmission modulator for shifting. The single wire connector goes nowhere, it ends on the other side of the firewall in another connector. I have not researched it but may have to do with either the arctic package or the M1010 ambulance. I have the same wire on my M1031.
- 1,926
- 1,210
- 113
- Location
- Paris KY
Mounted a Carter P4600HP 12v electric fuel pump on the frame at the rear of the cab. The pump will flow 50 gallons per hour at 4.5-8 psi. It will be ignition/relay wired. Also installed a HENKYO R12T 10 micron filter between the dual tank valve and the pump. The R12T also has a water trap in case of bad fuel from street pumps, and a handy drain knob which can be operated with gloves on. I mounted the R12T on the cross-member at the rear of the cab to provide a straight-through route for the forthcoming 3" exhaust. More details in my rebuild thread.
