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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

B

B-Dog

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Guruman said:
I think they just needed more sanding before getting plated. But , yes, Some polish would make it shinier.
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Prep makes all the difference with plating. Feel free to post more of your process. I tried the DIY route in the glasses for about 15 mins and all I got was rust. I caved, cheated and bought the copy-cad kit. I feel like it was well worth the investment. But, it's also catch 22. If you're doing a lot of plating or plating big parts, it's probably better to outsource. The plating set-up takes up a lot of space so setting up and tearing down is a process by itself.

After blasting, I run parts over the deburring wheel to polish them or if the part is round and will fit in the lathe; emory cloth & scotch-brite. The difference is night and day compared to blasting alone, especially if you're using an aggressive abrasive.
 
Guruman

Guruman

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B-Dog said:
Prep makes all the difference with plating. Feel free to post more of your process. I tried the DIY route in the glasses for about 15 mins and all I got was rust. I caved, cheated and bought the copy-cad kit. I feel like it was well worth the investment. But, it's also catch 22. If you're doing a lot of plating or plating big parts, it's probably better to outsource. The plating set-up takes up a lot of space so setting up and tearing down is a process by itself.

After blasting, I run parts over the deburring wheel to polish them or if the part is round and will fit in the lathe; emory cloth & scotch-brite. The difference is night and day compared to blasting alone, especially if you're using an aggressive abrasive.
Click to expand...
My process is pretty basic. I started with a solution of vinegar and salt for the electrolyte.

I have a small bench top power supply with variable voltage and amp control.

I just use a plastic tote, like the ones at airport security checkpoints.

I bought some pure nickel bars and chunks from Amazon

I "charged" the electrolyte by running it without a part for several hours. With nickel bars/chunks rigged to both the positive and negative outputs. The solution went from clear to an aquamarine color.

One the solution was prepped, I just attach the negative lead from the power supply to the part I want covered in nickel, and I drop in a bunch of the nickel chunks and bars rigged t attach to the positive lead.

I futz with the voltage and amps to get some off gassing going from the part, and I occasionally move/reorient it around to get better coverage (all of the plating activity will happen I the general direction of the positive lead, so if you don't flip it around one side gets plated and the other side gets nothing).

When it looks good enough, I pull it out, rinse it, wipe it dry, then hit it with a torch for second to evaporate any remaining moisture. Then I give it a light coat of Balistol to hopefully end run around any future corrosion.

For prepping the door pulls, I cleaned them up with the sandblaster, which is using a pretty rough grit. Then I hit them with a hand sander a bit to knock off the high spots. I guess if I was going to do a bunch of this, I'd like to have a couple of belt sanders, and buffing wheels setup to prep the parts much better.
 
Guruman

Guruman

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Thompson Falls, Montana / Muncie, Indiana
B-Dog said:
Prep makes all the difference with plating. Feel free to post more of your process. I tried the DIY route in the glasses for about 15 mins and all I got was rust. I caved, cheated and bought the copy-cad kit. I feel like it was well worth the investment. But, it's also catch 22. If you're doing a lot of plating or plating big parts, it's probably better to outsource. The plating set-up takes up a lot of space so setting up and tearing down is a process by itself.

After blasting, I run parts over the deburring wheel to polish them or if the part is round and will fit in the lathe; emory cloth & scotch-brite. The difference is night and day compared to blasting alone, especially if you're using an aggressive abrasive.
Click to expand...
Doing some research on the copy-cad stuff...

I guess the answer is to first plate the item in copper to get a smooth finish, then hit it with the nickel.
 
serpico760

serpico760

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Godspeed131 said:
Looks good. I need a whole cover kit for mine as well, maybe some day lol. Was your’s from the lots of them sold off gov planet, the past couple of weeks?
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Well sometime hopefully next year my truck will become a camper at that time I will sell the bed and the cover and poles kit, cleaned and folded nicely back in its original crate
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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swiss said:
Worked on the lmtv graveyard all day

troubleshooting new starter
Tire swaps
Ctis troubleshooting
Battery charging
Engine cleaning
Fender replscement

2 steps forward 2 back 😩
View attachment 882643View attachment 882644View attachment 882645View attachment 882646View attachment 882648View attachment 882647
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Definitely looks like a days hard labor to me @swiss ...

Can you tell us anything about what looks like a hydraulic jack on the ground in front of the right tire (or axle) ?
 
swiss

swiss

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Oakwood, Ga
Mullaney said:
.
Definitely looks like a days hard labor to me @swiss ...

Can you tell us anything about what looks like a hydraulic jack on the ground in front of the right tire (or axle) ?
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That @Mullaney is a SPI 15 ton hydraulic jack with height collar and additional riser that will extend 32”

if you can move it in position it will lift it. And you can use as safety stand. Problem is lmtv really does not have good spot to put it in front bumper area
 
serpico760

serpico760

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swiss said:
That @Mullaney is a SPI 15 ton hydraulic jack with height collar and additional riser that will extend 32”

if you can move it in position it will lift it. And you can use as safety stand. Problem is lmtv really does not have good spot to put it in front bumper area
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That's what this Jack is for, I wish I had one but I don'theavy vehicle bumper check.pngfmtv bumper Jack.png
 
serpico760

serpico760

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Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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Corpus Christi Texas
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