96m1083
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- Wake Forest NC
Rotated 4 out of 6 tires, put the new ones on the front, replaced CTIS ECU with new one, fueled up
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Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
sweet..... double Alaskan. Love it.Added a camper to the M-1082 trailer. Now have a 'guest bedroom"
RE: the 531, diesel likes to be at a high load.... they work forever like that. I would build a quiet box for it and use the 531. Will sip less fuel and love its job. The 803a is under taxed ..... easier to coke up engine being under taxed and shorten its lifeAndy and I installed my Coleman Roughneck Low Profile 13.5 BTU air conditioner. It’s running off my MEP-803A…..plenty of back-up power . We did run it off the MEP-531 for a while, it ran it at 75% load, the 531 is noisy. It’s nice to have AC. This was the easiest and cheapest way for me to achieve AC. The Coleman was mid $800 range shipped to me…….already had the generators.
RE: the 531, diesel likes to be at a high load.... they work forever like that. I would build a quiet box for it and use the 531. Will sip less fuel and love its job. The 803a is under taxed ..... easier to coke up engine being under taxed and shorten its life
lot of threads and video's in many places on making sound boxes for generators. Would help to mount it as far back as possible on truck as well. Considering it will only really be used when driving.... should be able to push air into sound box pretty easy.. Install fan for idoling; maybe via thermostat inside sound box?I need to figure out how to quiet the 531 down......a lot, or hook up a clothes dryer to the 803 to put a load on it.
This is worthy of its own thread. Curious what weld technique / process you plan to use for adding additional length to your chassis. Example why splice instead of just adding to back end of chassis?I committed an atrocity and cut and welded my frame rails...
View attachment 739772
This is prep for a 22ft box body that is going on it.
much congrats..... bet that is such a relief.After a year of electrical tracing, leaking fuel hoses, terminal cleaning, transmission work and replacing various parts I finally got my m1078 to start for the first time. Final issue was that someone had put a jumper on the 24v load and the 24v battery terminals on the load battery control device. After I took that off it started on the first push of the start button.
That is a ground. I had it off to clean it and replace the bolt and washer that was holding it down. I don't know if this jumper wire is what did all the damage to my truck but something blew up the transmission controller and took 2 solenoids in the transmission with it.What is the loose cable end on the left?
Well the labeling leads me to believe that is the polarity protection device. Diodes in an aluminum heatsync that only allow current to flow one direction. The only reason to bypass it would be if you suspected the diode was bad.That is a ground. I had it off to clean it and replace the bolt and washer that was holding it down. I don't know if this jumper wire is what did all the damage to my truck but something blew up the transmission controller and took 2 solenoids in the transmission with it.