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Simple job got harder
Was checking my battery connections due to some odd behavior of my alternator gauge during cold statup. It would cycle between yellow, red and green during the after glow. It would even push hard past the red to the right on the dial, which concerned me! It only happened a few times though. Recent issue.
Checked the battery disconnect, it was tight and doing fine. Then noticed the positive cables on the inner firewall were loose. The nut looked odd, so I took it off. Turns out that it was the wrong threads, and the insides of the nut (pictured on top/right) were nearly smooth and the threads on the post were badly damaged as well. No wonder it wouldn't stay tight!
So a simple remove/clean/retighten turned into recutting the threads on the post to a slightly smaller diameter and finding a nut to match in my tubs of odds and ends. Ended up cutting the threads to M18x1.75 (if I recall correctly). Since the post is brass, it made cutting threads much easier, which is good since it would have been a long hard job to take it off. The back of the post is very hard to get to and it's got plenty of cables bolted (tightly, I checked) to it. Due to the tight space I could not get a standards die holder in, so I used a vise grip to hold the die. Would not have worked with a steel post I bet.
So, cut the new threads and cleaned everything up and put it all together. Then cleaned the other connections (most were clean since I installed new batteries only a year ago) and sprayed all with battery post protector.
I'll do a cold startup this afternoon and observe the gauge to see if the issue is past. I hope so!
Bulldogger
![IMG_0135[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/465/465449-74ef9872a6b9c0e51cbd25a0ec6bcd1d.jpg "IMG_0135[1].jpg")
Was checking my battery connections due to some odd behavior of my alternator gauge during cold statup. It would cycle between yellow, red and green during the after glow. It would even push hard past the red to the right on the dial, which concerned me! It only happened a few times though. Recent issue.
Checked the battery disconnect, it was tight and doing fine. Then noticed the positive cables on the inner firewall were loose. The nut looked odd, so I took it off. Turns out that it was the wrong threads, and the insides of the nut (pictured on top/right) were nearly smooth and the threads on the post were badly damaged as well. No wonder it wouldn't stay tight!
So a simple remove/clean/retighten turned into recutting the threads on the post to a slightly smaller diameter and finding a nut to match in my tubs of odds and ends. Ended up cutting the threads to M18x1.75 (if I recall correctly). Since the post is brass, it made cutting threads much easier, which is good since it would have been a long hard job to take it off. The back of the post is very hard to get to and it's got plenty of cables bolted (tightly, I checked) to it. Due to the tight space I could not get a standards die holder in, so I used a vise grip to hold the die. Would not have worked with a steel post I bet.
So, cut the new threads and cleaned everything up and put it all together. Then cleaned the other connections (most were clean since I installed new batteries only a year ago) and sprayed all with battery post protector.
I'll do a cold startup this afternoon and observe the gauge to see if the issue is past. I hope so!
Bulldogger
![us-radio-aufkleber-fur-rt-246-rt-524[2].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/465/465454-1882b49b2cfd90c4de86bb91400d862a.jpg "us-radio-aufkleber-fur-rt-246-rt-524[2].jpg")
