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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Mogman

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The GEP18002668 plugs went in today after yesterday's no-start.

The left (easy) side was low drama with only one slightly swollen.

Right side was a nightmare. The first one (working rear to front from the doghouse) was ugly. I couldn't pull it out and it was looking like I was going to need to borrow an extraction tool. I moved to the next one and it didn't want to come out immediately, but did after some coaxing. The next one (the hardest to reach) was the same as the previous. The most forward right side one came out without drama.

Going back to the aft one I wiggled and pried and finally got it out.

The new ones started the truck easily.

The one standing proud is a new one for comparison. The swollen ones were the ones I got from Erik's.

View attachment 887256
The GEP plug is smaller on the end, looks like a great idea as even if it swells a little bit as the other ones did it still should come out OK!!
 

OBX

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The flexible rubber shrouds left and right of the cooling stack (in conjunction with a third rubber shroud attached to the hood) are (I believe) there to help fresh air be channeled directly through the hood grill with protective screen. The shrouds also minimize surrounding airborne debris in wheel wells being drawn directly onto the stack, bypassing screening. Of course, I could be entirely wrong in that assumption.
On my Humvee, I found both shrouds completely collapsed. To maintain them in a more vertical position so the shrouds contact the hood, I drilled a small hole near the top of each existing bracket and used 10-24x1/2” fasteners to secure the shrouds to each bracket. Works fine. I cleaned the original shrouds and sprayed them with flat black. They look like new.

6F565692-C5EE-47E5-81B3-CDD841114602.jpeg03632D59-905C-4F2A-ABF9-E617E8BC65AA.jpeg65200466-BD0B-473B-BE6C-529D1C9BA3B7.jpegE936B2B6-207B-46A2-BF6C-95E0E7DB2C42.jpeg
 
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HUMMER H1

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M1165A1

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Well finally mounted the new GT Cepek tires on the M1152A1. Took her for a spin, which is more-or-less the first time she's been out. The tires that came from the auction put new meaning to the term "bald" and I couldn't risk them on the snow.

It's a beautiful truck and I love it - BUT wow the driver's seat is cramped compared to my 1165. Not ideal for a 6'4" guy.
 

MarkM

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Don't have a HMMWV yet, have a M939A2, yet wife is now wanting one and never driven one for daily driver to work. I know stay away from the 6.2's (M998 and thereabouts).
Me on the other hand drove M1097's and M998 while in the service. We have 40 plus miles of rock/clay road in most diverse weather you can think of with terrain so steep the M939A2 will spin the tires with a traction block on snow/ice with front axle locked in. Someone on another forum said I was nuts and to get a solid axle truck or 4Runner instead. Just needs to get to work and home safely in temperatures 40 below zero to 115 degrees.

And just why should one "stay away" from the M998s???

Mark
 

MarkM

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And you think the later models are "fast" ? I would love to have a turbo along with a least a four speed but oh well. The GM v8 diesels are a poor engine to begin with as time has told. The Cummins 6 cylinder offerings is a far superior engine but a rather costly conversion for the HMMWV. I have other toys to go fast and I don't need to get anywhere that fast with the HMMWV.

EEnjoy what you have.

Mark
 

Ajax MD

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I have a minor fuel drip when the fuel tank is over half full. It appears to be coming from the 3 lines that go to the top of the tank. I think they may be chafed.

I've just about got the fuel tank removed. This is the older style with the shaft line disc brake. The manual does not say to do it but do I need to remove the drive shaft or will the tank rotate around it and drop out?

Also, in the modern era to people use any type of RTV goop in a tube to seal the panel at the top of the tank or are we still using gaskets?
 

OBX

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E0E407F4-0FC8-4819-90B9-9D0C8A8F20D0.jpeg1D7F9CCB-B827-4DFA-A4E3-32F83BECDB25.jpegContinuing conversion of my M1152A1 (2 seats) to M1165A1ish (4 seats). Covered rear tunnel area with 3/4” rubber mat, over 3/4” plywood, over 1/2” solid foam insulation, over Dynamat. Trimmed with 2” aluminum angle.
 
I have charged the batteries as the cold weather here (nothing like you guys in the States) its been below 0°C for over a week and the truck has been in the shade all that time.
I tried to fix my temp gauge, it goes up to max after about 2 min of running time but the engine definately isn't hot in that time. I think it's a grounding issue on the gauge or sensor.
And turned the driver side hood catch around as it had been mounted around the wrong way.
Not much but kept me busy for a short time.
Oh and I got my indicators working.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Nope I don't think they are fast and don't want to go fast, I have a memory in my head where I stuck the M998 in a firefight in what would a M1097 would of drove straight through due to lack of power. Was very steep terrain and it didn't have the power to climb through a washout in the road in the city and we got pinned down pretty good.
Believe me if I wanted to go fast I wouldn't have bought the M939A2 and would of went with a Peterbilt.
the 6.2-6.5NA is more than capable off road, m998’s are 7700 GVW so the suspension is very forgiving, your m1097 is a shelter truck and has/had non-variable rate fixed springs…not ideal unless loaded to the hilt.
the 3 speed is as reliable as it’s going to get, an A2 adds in the electronic run transmission And 10.3gvw chassis…if the A2 was MAK equipped? You will need new non-armor springs. IMO….the A2 upgrades are significant enough to be my go to, if it’s EOW sh*t? An old 3 speed is the ticket.
 
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