What have you done to your JEEP today

[DeetFreek]

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Yep. In the days of old I carried a spare condenser, set of points and a few other things in the glove box of an old 67 Camaro. They bailed me out of a mess more times than one!

So I'm preaching to the choir then!

 

[Maverick1701]

There is a disk under stock coils, don't know what it is. Your coil terminal may not reach distributor cap without the thickness of the disk. Just a guess, perhaps worthless.

I actually went through this issue when I removed the factory coil. That resistor/disk is now internal so the coil is full height. Here are some pics I took back in 2017 when I replaced it:

 

[JEB]

Buying more parts....
Horn switch, stop light switch, radiator cap and just for fun...A new horn cap.

And importantly, I figured out a period correct seatbelt set up for my USAF-marked M38A1. I'm marking it for when it was built (1955), so it was a challenge given the lack of aftermarket seat belts at the time.
They'll look great.

 

[Maverick1701]

My replacement distributor power plug, and condensers FINALLY arrived (I ordered three so I have extra for when they die) today. On my days off I'm going to get it installed and see if my spark situation changes. Hopefully I'll have spark at the plugs now.

 

[Maverick1701]

Well it happened….my jeep FINALLY runs.

On Thursday I swapped out the condenser and replaced the distributor power cable. I needed to clearance the condenser bracket (it rubbed against the distributor shaft) and then I fabricated another little locking tab that holds the distributor plate in place. I buttoned up everything and it fired on starting fluid. After a few tries (fine-tuning my spraying & throttle coordination) I was able to keep it running on starting fluid. Oil pressure looked solid and I had fuel pumping to the carb (out of a little water bottle fuel can I rigged up). I tried it on gas and it just wouldn’t go…so time to open the carb.

On Friday a buddy came over and we tore into the carb. It was clogged shut and filled with old nasty gas, silt, and particulates. We cleaned out all the passages, valves, etc. and slapped it back together. After reinstalling on the jeep we refilled the temporary fuel tank (water bottle) and after a few failures we got it to run on gasoline. Once we got it running more or less reliably we adjusted the generator (had to shim it forward to align with the other pulleys, assembled the cooling system, topped off the oil in the air filter, and installed the belts. I have a radiator cap on the way via napa and it should be good to go.

I don’t think cylinder 1 is firing or possibly only firing intermittently. Using my IR thermometer, 2/3/4 show 360-400* while 1 only shows in the high 200s. I’m going to replace the spark plug wire and see if it changes anything. I dropped the end of that wire on the battery earlier in the week and did some surprise welding…and oh boy…it was a surprise!! I pulled the plug and it was fouled so that may have been the issue as well. I’ll know more when I have time to work on it later this week.

Running video 1:

Running video 2:

 

[DeetFreek]

Always a great feeling to get an old mule running again!

 

[Maverick1701]

Unfortunately, it's been way too cold to have another long day in the shop. We should be warming up again in a few days so I'm going to make a hard push next week to button up everything (or most everything). Since Saturday, I've replaced a headlight, checked (and topped off) fluid levels in both differentials, cleaned out axle vents, and I've been working on getting my vacuum system sorted (I hate vacuum systems).

I don't like messing with brass fittings but it's a necessary evil here. I have the engine-to-vacuum pump lines sorted. I'm finishing with the intake tube-distributor-wiper T-vacuum pipe side of things. I need to make one more connection and it'll be good to go.

I would like to get the Jeep inspected and plated next week. That requires some safety items be fixed. I have some wiper blades on order & I need to figure out why the horn no longer works (the horn rod/button no longer "springs" back when pressed). I'm hoping it's just a stuck horn switch but I can always wire up a temporary horn button for inspection purposes.

On the short-term to-to list is: check fluid in transmission and x-fer case, flush brake system, wrap exhaust downpipe (it runs REALLY close to my front brake line and I'm worried about boiling the brake fluid), and clean out my gas tank before hooking it into the system.

Long-term to-do list includes: buy new exhaust system, install winch plate, install PTO, install PTO winch, buy a rear seat, buy a top.

 

[Maverick1701]

My radiator cap arrived today...only three days late (thanks fedex).

On the way to work I stopped at the parts store and picked-up the last few brass pieces I need to complete my vacuum system. So that will be done and off the to-do list.

I also stopped by the courthouse and completed the registration paperwork with the county tax assessor/collector. I decided to tag it as an antique vehicle (for now) so I could drive and enjoy it ASAP. Also a perk of the antique registration (and classic registration) is the ability to run year-of-manufacture license plates. I have been saving these 1952 plates for years now for this exact occasion. It's nice to finally have them official with the state of TX.

 

[DeetFreek]

I decided to tag it as an antique vehicle (for now) so I could drive and enjoy it ASAP. Also a perk of the antique registration (and classic registration) is the ability to run year-of-manufacture license plates. I have been saving these 1952 plates for years now for this exact occasion. It's nice to finally have them official with the state of TX.

Iowa isn't too much different, we don't have to register as a classic to run year of manufacture though. I just slap the plates on, keep the current plates/registration in the vehicle and I'm golden. I'm still on the lookout for a pair of '52 plates, the set for the '53 I found pretty quickly and weren't in terrible shape, so I left them as is. Only running the rear plate, I don't feel like fabbing up a bracket for the front.

 

[Maverick1701]

So today was an exciting day. After a long long process, it's finally back on the road.

I checked off the last few items on my to-to list....check the fluid in my transmission and x-fer case, buttoned up my vacuum system, wrapped my exhaust, cleaned the gas tank, hooked up the fuel system, and then drive the jeep for the first time in about eight years. I have a few issues I need clean up but it ran and drove mostly well-ish.


I think I have a fuel issue and potentially a timing issue. After reading below and hearing the videos, what do you all think?





Video(s):

Driving around the field next to my neighborhood:

this video shows the idle at the start of my drive. It cleared up a little but I'm thinking I have a few issues to fix to really have it running well

this video shows the exhaust at idle. I still have some popping and minimal backfiring which also leads me to believe I have some issues to work out:

Cylinder 1 temperature still seems low (I swapped out the spark plug cable before running it today)...but maybe it's just showing lower because it's closer to the fan and has good airflow? what are your thoughts on this?


SP1 temp:



SP2/3 temp:



SP4 temp:




I also think I have a fueling issue. The fuel filter I installed between the tank & pump just shows a trickle of fuel....the jeep still ran but I would expect it to flow more than that. How does it look to you all?




At the end of the first drive the jeep died on me but I was able to restart it with starting fluid (no idea why it decided to die).

 

[GopherHill]

Those fuel filters never fill up completely . A sure thing is to check pump output quantity and pressure. The procedure is probably in the -10 manual.
An old Motors manual will do, use CJ5 specs.
Be careful and don't set fire to the jeep.

 

[Maverick1701]

Those fuel filters never fill up completely . A sure thing is to check pump output quantity and pressure. The procedure is probably in the -10 manual.
An old Motors manual will do, use CJ5 specs.
Be careful and don't set fire to the jeep.

Thanks for the tips. I'll give the pump a double check.


Update: After my original post, I went back out to do some more troubleshooting.

I found and fixed a few issues...now the jeep is running GREAT!!!

I apparently had a major leak around the carb mounting gasket. I cranked down on the mounting nuts and that cleared up.
Next I double checked my float level. I had it set at 1/2in and the correct setting per the TMs is 9/64s...so I was way way off. This fixed a ton of my other issues.

Now the jeep purrs perfectly. Once the wife got home, we all went out for a little drive in the alleys behind our house:

 

[GopherHill]

Good going! Glad to hear about progress.

 

[Mullaney]

Thanks for the tips. I'll give the pump a double check.


Update: After my original post, I went back out to do some more troubleshooting.

I found and fixed a few issues...now the jeep is running GREAT!!!

I apparently had a major leak around the carb mounting gasket. I cranked down on the mounting nuts and that cleared up.
Next I double checked my float level. I had it set at 1/2in and the correct setting per the TMs is 9/64s...so I was way way off. This fixed a ton of my other issues.

Now the jeep purrs perfectly. Once the wife got home, we all went out for a little drive in the alleys behind our house:
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And there is a smile on every face in those pictures!
Looks like some really great family time.
Congrats on finding and fixing your troubles!

 

[JEB]

Maverick1701

it does my heart good to see a nice young family spending time together, especially in something so all-American, so universal ....
I do miss Texas!

I hope you and your family enjoy the Jeep for many miles and many years.

 

[Maverick1701]

I need to pick the brains of the group here.
I wanted to verify my understanding based on what I gathered from the TMs regarding re-clocking the oil pump for a timing issue.
Currently, my distributor is bottomed out against the generator and I need to rotate it further "down" for timing purposes. My understanding is I need to move the oil pump one tooth clockwise (NOT counterclockwise) which will allow for more "downward" adjustment of the distributor. Is this correct?

Nothing new today in terms of working on the jeep. I'm waiting on an order from KW to arrive...should be here tomorrow.
I ordered a new thermostat, t-stat gasket, engine temp sensor, and replacement side-view mirror. I'm hoping to get those installed later this week but we will see.... we have house guests for a few days so that may interrupt my jeep fun.

 

[DeetFreek]

I need to pick the brains of the group here.
I wanted to verify my understanding based on what I gathered from the TMs regarding re-clocking the oil pump for a timing issue.
Currently, my distributor is bottomed out against the generator and I need to rotate it further "down" for timing purposes. My understanding is I need to move the oil pump one tooth clockwise which will allow for more "downward" adjustment of the distributor. Is this correct?

Sounds correct to me, in order to get more clockwise rotation, it needs clocked in reverse of that. Each tooth is 30° worth of timing, so unless you're waaaay out, one tooth should be sufficient.

 

[JEB]

While the mechanics are being done, I thought I'd get proactive to figure out the best Strata Blue paint.
So far I have samples from Gillespie and PPG.
LVP comes next week.
There is a noticeable difference in the two.

Also, found a supplier for the military markings decal set.

I want to have it ready for car show season.

 

[Maverick1701]

While the mechanics are being done, I thought I'd get proactive to figure out the best Strata Blue paint.
So far I have samples from Gillespie and PPG.
LVP comes next week.
There is a noticeable difference in the two.

Also, found a supplier for the military markings decal set.

I want to have it ready for car show season.

that strata blue is going to look sharp (I love strata blue MVs).
there is a famous strata blue M38A1 that has been on hte cover of the KW catalog a time or two.... from what I read on the guys build thread he had a special mix of strata blue made which really pops.

 

[DeetFreek]

that strata blue is going to look sharp (I love strata blue MVs).
there is a famous strata blue M38A1 that has been on hte cover of the KW catalog a time or two.... from what I read on the guys build thread he had a special mix of strata blue made which really pops.

It's Timothy Slawson's A1, this pretty example!