What have you done to your JEEP today

[JEB]

that strata blue is going to look sharp (I love strata blue MVs).
there is a famous strata blue M38A1 that has been on hte cover of the KW catalog a time or two.... from what I read on the guys build thread he had a special mix of strata blue made which really pops.

I've seen it on a recent KW catalog cover.
It helped give me the idea to do one that way.
I have since found online a story by the owner of that Jeep.
he admitted it was a custom color in a shade he liked (brighter) and not military correct.
Plus, I'm doing it the markings of my dad's MATS Wing back when my '55 A1 was new...and I was a baby.

Strata blue is a tough nut to crack..but
old photos (of unknown quality) only go so far.
no two people seem to agree about it.
So far , I like the PPG mix.data

UPDA TE: See added photo of test colors on my Strata Blue thread.

 

[Maverick1701]

this weekend a buddy came over and we got some work done on the jeep.
We adjusted the intake valves (haven't don't exhaust yet) and they were set to SUPER tight.....now set to the proper 0.018in. I hear much more of that "clattery" valve noise while driving now but it runs MUCH MUCH better.

I did a longer drive and played around the neighborhood (about 45min). Unfortunately, I'm still experiencing carbon fouling on #3 and #4. Right when I returned home, the motor died.....due to the fouling (after I cleaned off the plugs, it ran great again):


However, 1 looks like it's running lean:


2 looks normal-ish:


I'm not sure why 1 would be running lean and 3/4 are running rich enough to foul the plugs. Any ideas from the group?
I'm going to try running anti-foulers on 3/4 and see what happens...but that doesn't help my lean issue on #1.

Next work day I'm going to replace the coolant temp sending unit, thermostat, and t-stat gasket. The temp sending unit finally arrived. It was backordered from KW for about a month.

 

[DeetFreek]

Is the #1 intake valve opening enough to get the full charge in? Like, is it possibly hanging up or worst case, bad lobe. I can't think of much that would let the other three run rich (sounds like carb needs backed off a little) while one is lean.

 

[Maverick1701]

Friday afternoon a buddy came by and we tore into the jeep to fix a few issues (hard start, flooding, funky idle, and a few odds and ends).
We re-adjusted the valves (correctly this time) which brought everything back into spec. Originally we adjusted them hot, however the sticker right there on the valve cover says "check cold" and lists the appropriate measurements for intake & exhaust. Somehow we missed the "check cold" part of that message the last time we adjusted them.

We then tore into the carb to see why it was flooding. We discovered another bone-headed mistake. the last time I had the carb apart, I apparently installed the float 180* out (so there was no "stop" when the float dropped. Surprisingly it ran like this....just not well). We flipped around the float, and adjusted it properly. It's amazing how that one little measurement of the float level has such a HUGE impact on the running of the vehicle.

We also locked down the distributor as far down as we could (still haven't re-clocked the oil pump but that's on the to-do list).
With those issues fixed the jeep runs better than it ever has. I'm still tracking down a few vacuum leaks and getting those lined out and I discovered I lost a headlight low-beam....it never ends.

Friday evening, I took the family out for a ride around the neighborhood. Driving them around in the jeep is my happy place. It was a nice time.

 

[Mullaney]

Friday afternoon a buddy came by and we tore into the jeep to fix a few issues (hard start, flooding, funky idle, and a few odds and ends).
We re-adjusted the valves (correctly this time) which brought everything back into spec. Originally we adjusted them hot, however the sticker right there on the valve cover says "check cold" and lists the appropriate measurements for intake & exhaust. Somehow we missed the "check cold" part of that message the last time we adjusted them.

We then tore into the carb to see why it was flooding. We discovered another bone-headed mistake. the last time I had the carb apart, I apparently installed the float 180* out (so there was no "stop" when the float dropped. Surprisingly it ran like this....just not well). We flipped around the float, and adjusted it properly. It's amazing how that one little measurement of the float level has such a HUGE impact on the running of the vehicle.

We also locked down the distributor as far down as we could (still haven't re-clocked the oil pump but that's on the to-do list).
With those issues fixed the jeep runs better than it ever has. I'm still tracking down a few vacuum leaks and getting those lined out and I discovered I lost a headlight low-beam....it never ends.

Friday evening, I took the family out for a ride around the neighborhood. Driving them around in the jeep is my happy place. It was a nice time.

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.
All smiles in that jeep!
That is so neat. Good progress made!

 

[JEB]

The restoration shop is hard at work putting the mechanics back together following cleaning, New seals, restoring or replacing components, overhauling systems, next is the new wiring harness.

He emailed me a couple of weeks ago. The Jerry can bracket on the back had to go. He said it was a flimsy copy and asked me to find a correct (heavy and American made) unit when his initial source (a friend who is a bit of a parts hoarder) did not come through.

I checked the usual list of online parts houses and bought a NOS Surplus unit.
It was brand new and certainly heavy duty. It has a government bar code stock sticker on the bottom and stamped on it was a 2012 build date.

I gave it a good sanding to get rid of some chips, then have it done proper gray primer...It looks very nice.

I also bought new metal spacers for the holder. I cleaned them, gave them primer, then a coat of the finish color. I'm hoping by doing some of this grunt work, it will help make the paint shop's life easier.

 

[Maverick1701]

I had the chance to give the jeep another drive over the weekend.
Unfortunately, even with the valves set correctly, zero vacuum leaks, carb re-cleaned and checked, and the carb float set pretty close to the correct height of 9/64ths, I'm still fouling plugs (carbon fouling). I've also messed with the idle mixture screw and I hear/see no change in the idle so I've been keeping it at 1.5 turns.
This time all the plugs are all fouled evenly vs last time where 1 was lean, 2 normal, and 3/4 were heavily fouled. I guess that is some improvement *shrug*

Part of the issue may be my constant low rpm operation (so far I've just been putting around the neighborhood). However, if/when I take the jeep off-road I'm going to be operating at low rpms and don't really want to stop every so often during the day to clean spark plugs (and hold up the rest of the group).

Also another strange symptom, the jeep won't start unless I cover the carb intake with my hand (cutting off air). Once I do that, it'll fire up immediately. This would normally tell me I have too much air, which would cause a lean running motor....but as discussed above I am running rich and fouling plugs.

Any ideas on where I should go from here?
Does it sound like the carb needs to be rebuilt again? (last time was about 7 years ago) Maybe move to a hotter plug? (something like a 2246 or 2247 if I can even find them)

 

[DeetFreek]

The YS carb is designed to need vacuum to start since there's no true accelerator pump, I had no clue there is an actual start up procedure for the A1 until I ran across it in the manual. Once warm it isn't always necessary, but that doesn't mean it still needs a little help lol.

Now this is a total guess, but if the main needle & seat are getting worn, excess fuel can get by.

 

[JEB]

Haven't done a photo update for awhile. (Last photo in Post 544).
My M38A1 is being refurbished...all the mechanical components have been checked, re-sealed as necessary, cleaned, painted or for things like brakes, replaced.
Under hood is spotless, it looked first rate...it's easy to see since the grille, good and fenders are off The vehicle.

The body was in excellent shape. The back panel was slightly dented due to the spare tire hitting something while backing up. That area was straighteu, antenna bracket holes filled, and a new correct (heavy duty, not Chinese) Jerry can carrier was fitted.The only rust found was in the fuel tank well.
Upon getting it ready for remedial work, it was found that there was more Bondo than metal, so the well was cut out and replaced.

Now, it's time to replace the wiring harness (had to wait months for it), then prep for Strata Blue paint ...PPG formula...which looked the best to me.
So, some light at the end of the tunnel.

Hey, it's only money.
And with the way car prices are now, it might even pay for itself when sold.

 

[DeetFreek]

Mocked up my spare tire carrier for the C today. Not once, but twice! I made the upper mounting tab the wrong direction which caused a bit of swearing on my end. But, I prevailed and now it's off to a buddy to laser cut the pattern and have it bent before it comes back to me for assembly and studs.


The oops on the right and the correct way on the left.

 

[Maverick1701]

I'm waiting on parts to arrive so I can tear into the jeep this weekend. The wife/kids are out of town for a week or so....so I have some time to really work on the jeep w/out worrying about neglecting family time.

I ordered another new headlight (I think I may have some grounding issues killing my headlights), carb rebuild kit (it's running very rich and I'm sure some of the diaphragms are dead and leaking gas), and exhaust gasket set (I have a leak or two in the exhaust system).
I also need to drain the coolant and replace the temp sending unit.

Once all that is done, hopefully I can better adjust my fuel mixture and hopefully solve the running rich situation (fouling plugs)

 

[Maverick1701]

Got some more work and driving done today. I had plans on installing some parts I had coming in from Kaiser Willys but thanks to fedex it's delayed.....so thanks for that, fedex.

Earlier today I knocked out a few to-do things I had pending while waiting for my package to arrive. I started by blowing out the PCV valve. I suspected it as clogged and yea.......it was clogged with junk and was not functioning properly. I replaced the temp sending unit and still didn't have any reading. So I tested the gauge and it tested bad. When I get back from family vacation I'll have to order a new gauge (KW ships so slowly I don't think it'll make it here before I leave town to join the family).

This evening I took the jeep for a longer drive at slightly higher speeds. It performed great but I think it's still running rich (a carb rebuild kit is one of the items coming in from KW). I did some tinkering with the adjustments and I think some of the diaphragms are leaking fuel into the carb....with the idle adjustment screw turn all the way lean it doesn't even stumble or change idle. New parts should help with that issue.

I got back to the shop and tried to see where my leaks were coming from....front/back of trans, and timing cover it looks like. Tomorrow I'm going to pull it out into the street and pressure wash out a lot of trash/dirt/oily mud that has built up between the drivetrain and skid plates. Hopefully I'll be able to see my leaks better (not that I have plans to fix them at the moment).

I opened the top of the trans to take a look a the fluid level, fluid quality, and check out my gears. The gears all look great. the fluid was a little chocolate milkshake-y with metal flakes. So I drained the fluid and refilled with new. I left the floor section off so I can blast crud from the top of the trans when I pressure wash it.

Tomorrow maybe my package will arrive and I can rebuild the carb, replace my leaky exhaust gasket, and replace the dead headlight.

 

[DeetFreek]

Snagged a horn, no mounting bracket, so let's make one! Of course I realize after all this that I don't even have a horn rod in the column.

 

[Maverick1701]

Of course I realize after all this that I don't even have a horn rod in the column.

Are you going to try and find a horn rod or just wire it up to a push-button switch? Also nice fab work! it turned out GREAT

 

[DeetFreek]

Are you going to try and find a horn rod or just wire it up to a push-button switch? Also nice fab work! it turned out GREAT

Thanks! I guess I learned a little something from factory life lol. Not sure about the horn yet, parts are out there, whether or not I want to pay for them remains to be seen lol. I have a foot controlled push button on my '53 because that horn rod is froze inside the steering tube so either way I'll get it hooked up.

 

[Maverick1701]

I've been out of town for about a month so my jeep work had been on hold.
Well I'm finally back in town and was able to get some work and driving time on the jeep.

First I tackled a few jobs I've had pending for my shop.
I've been using a folding table as a makeshift workbench...it worked just okay but not great. I finally bought one of those 72in adjustable workbenches from Sams Club and WOW I'm impressed. 10/10. I also found a company on ebay that sells old willys/jeep sales banners and picked up one of those. They are great quality and it looks sharp inside the shop.
I also picked up two fans which rest perfectly on the horizontal steel support bars in the corners of my building. They are a live-saver in this 100*+ texas panhandle heat. When the shop was built last year I had those corner plugs controlled by a switch so I can turn the fans on/off when needed.

fans/banner/bench:


My next jeep job is going to be a carb rebuild. I'm not 100% confident on this job so I'm still researching the process.....hopefully it isn't too difficult. bench work area:


Over the weekend my family went for another jeep drive. I had the trans tunnel still uninstalled from my last round of maintenance projects. I realized may need to get some cheap floormats. Temps in the trans area and floor area reached between 120-145 degrees. It's a bit toasty on these hot west texas evenings.
Now part of this was a result of our low-speed driving around the field (obviously higher-speed operation would be cooler as air flows through/around the vehicle). Another issue with the engine bay heat was my fuel boiling in my clear plastic fuel filter. The vehicle ran well w/out any issues so maybe this started occurring after I stopped and the vehicle sat with zero airflow? It's something I'll need to keep an eye on in the future.



After the drive I noticed some oil leaking on my vacuum/fuel pump. It's a new rebuild from midwest military so I'm not sure why it's leaking...maybe the oil is coming from somewhere else and just settling on the pump? I haven't had a chance to really look at it yet.

 

[Another Ahab]

They are great quality and it looks sharp inside the shop.

That shop is looking real sharp, for sure, Maverick1701!

What are the wall panels (with the loose film) shown on that inside shot of the shop, are those insulated panels of some kind?

 

[Tracer]

I found this Prestolite M38A1 distributor at the MVCC Spring meet last April. The seller was asking $15.00 so I purchased it for a spare. The distributor was as you see it except the cover was on. I had some free time, so I thought I'd open it up and take a look at the internals. When I removed the new cap much to my surprise it looks to have been converted to a point less ignition. Does anyone have any experience with this type of ignition system on the M38A1?

 

[Another Ahab]

Does anyone have any experience with this type of ignition system on the M38A1?
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I got nothing, But hope somebody here knows something for you, Tracer.

The cost on that item seems plenty reasonable (you know, IF you can use it)...

And if you can't then that's a giant $15 Bummer.

 

[Maverick1701]

I found this Prestolite M38A1 distributor at the MVCC Spring meet last April. The seller was asking $15.00 so I purchased it for a spare. The distributor was as you see it except the cover was on. I had some free time, so I thought I'd open it up and take a look at the internals. When I removed the new cap much to my surprise it looks to have been converted to a point less ignition. Does anyone have any experience with this type of ignition system on the M38A1?
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that pointless system is NICE. It's an upgrade I'm going to do on mine once I get it running right. They are dead reliable from all the reviews I see online.