• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What the Heck is Going On with this Speedometer???

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I can’t get this speedometer working for the life of me!

I have a CUCV M1009. Late last year I had the speedometer cable (provided by the previous owner) and the nylon gear in the transfer case north replaced, because the speedometer wasn’t working when we purchased it.

A month or so ago it stopped working. I purchased a used speedometer adapter from a very helpful guy on here. It’s still not working! In fact I installed the replacement and drove it 20 feet and then checked it. The needle got stuck into the transfer case end. What the?

One thing to note is it does work if I place the speedometer cable into the transfer case. It’s however not accurate. The cable end spins easily and so does, the nylon gear seems good still as well.

I’ve noticed (with both adapters) that the cable doesn’t go completely into the adapter. There is a small gap (see pic). Could it be the position of the adapter? I put it all back as I found it.

Any ideas, maybe the cable is wrong/damaged? Maybe the end of the cable is too long?

Thank you in advance. This thing is becoming a real stumper!











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Is that a vehicle specific speedometer cable? Or is it a non OEM generic replacement. If it is I think you are onto something. With a grinder I would grind a small section off the end and get that cable to fit snugly into the adapter. That is the answer I am sure. If it works it is fixed. But if that is as easy as that I would be all over it. Good Luck Report back. Use care so you do not unravel the cable while grinding. A smooth grinder stone would be best. Possibly bench mounted grinder. 1631094565036.png
Good Luck please report back. I thought hard about the issue.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Is that a vehicle specific speedometer cable? Or is it a non OEM generic replacement. If it is I think you are onto something. With a grinder I would grind a small section off the end and get that cable to fit snugly into the adapter. That is the answer I am sure. If it works it is fixed. But if that is as easy as that I would be all over it. Good Luck Report back. Use care so you do not unravel the cable while grinding. A smooth grinder stone would be best. Possibly bench mounted grinder. View attachment 844550
Good Luck please report back. I thought hard about the issue.
There he is! That’s a great idea! I don’t know if it’s a generic cable, since the previous owner purchased it. I don’t have a bench grinder, maybe if I used my Dremel?

This might be a silly thought/question. I can’t pick up the slack by pulling it from the opposite side a tad? Maybe I’m wrong and you can’t do that.

I suppose purchasing the proper cable is another option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
There he is! That’s a great idea! I don’t know if it’s a generic cable, since the previous owner purchased it. I don’t have a bench grinder, maybe if I used my Dremel?

This might be a silly thought/question. I can’t pick up the slack by pulling it from the opposite side a tad? Maybe I’m wrong and you can’t do that.

I suppose purchasing the proper cable is another option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This looks legit (only if I have to purchase a new one).

GM Genuine Parts 88959481 Speedometer Cable https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C9QRCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1CB63BN1T4BPVBP24S07

I ordered this and I will compare the ends of the two cables. I’d like to see if they’re different lengths or exactly the same.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I wrapped the male end going into the plastic gear of one of mine with aluminum foil and it has been spot on working every time for the last 10 years now. Just throwing something else into the pot.
Hello! The male end, does it go into the adapter or did you put straight into the transfer case?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I would remove the speedometer cable from under the dash and try and hook the adapter to the cable while it is disconnected. Then if it goes together just snap the cable on the back of the speedometer. It's worth a try at this point.
I will try that, it just might work! I’ll report back. Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,275
1,796
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I have the adaptor installed so it was the male end of the adaptor box into the plastic gear.

I second the recommendation to pull the casing from the back of the speedometer while working at the transfer case. If nothing else you will be able to see once you stuff the male end of the cable into the adaptor box if your cable is just too short at the speedometer.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I have the adaptor installed so it was the male end of the adaptor box into the plastic gear.

I second the recommendation to pull the casing from the back of the speedometer while working at the transfer case. If nothing else you will be able to see once you stuff the male end of the cable into the adaptor box if your cable is just too short at the speedometer.
Will do! Thank you for the advice! I’m hoping to get to it this weekend. But first some lights to fix! :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I would remove the speedometer cable from under the dash and try and hook the adapter to the cable while it is disconnected. Then if it goes together just snap the cable on the back of the speedometer. It's worth a try at this point.
I received the new speedo cable today. I haven’t taken out of the box to compare it to the one currently installed. But I can say off hand I think it’s a bit shorter. I’ll update soon!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I received the new speedo cable today. I haven’t taken out of the box to compare it to the one currently installed. But I can say off hand I think it’s a bit shorter. I’ll update soon!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I compared the two cables and the one installed is definitely longer than the new one. Pic below. I placed the end of the new cable into the adapter and there’s no longer a gap.

I’ll still pull on the dashboard cable side first. I read that you don’t have to take the dashboard apart to access it. You just reach back there and Unclick it. Is that true? How exactly do you do that?

Thank you again!!





 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,275
1,796
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Just reach up behind the dash. Follow the cable to the back of the speedometer. You can feel a plastic latch/catch on the side of it that holds it to the speedometer. Once you feel it, you will understand how it comes apart.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,773
19,884
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I compared the two cables and the one installed is definitely longer than the new one. Pic below. I placed the end of the new cable into the adapter and there’s no longer a gap.

I’ll still pull on the dashboard cable side first. I read that you don’t have to take the dashboard apart to access it. You just reach back there and Unclick it. Is that true? How exactly do you do that?

Thank you again!!





.
AND REMEMBER... You have to latch the speedo cable back in place - just as blind as you were when you removed it.
Seems stupid, but teach your hand to pull it off and put it back several times. Off a little and right back on, off a little more, and back on. Rinse, Lather, Repeat!

I would suggest that you need to be prepared to put the cable back on and try another day if you aren't ready to complete that exercise while your hand and brain are in tune with each other.
 
Last edited:

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
The grinder and cut off wheel are your friend. But you already have the replacement. Have at it. Unbolt the retainers that secure the cable. Don't cut them. I see that a lot. Good Luck.
This all sounds good. I’ll try un-clicking the current cable first. Now I have a New Cable as a back up as well. I’ll have to really be mindful how to get it clicked back in. Thank you for the heads up and input. I’m hoping to get at it tomorrow!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
This all sounds good. I’ll try un-clicking the current cable first. Now I have a New Cable as a back up as well. I’ll have to really be mindful how to get it clicked back in. Thank you for the heads up and input. I’m hoping to get at it tomorrow!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m thinking I should just take the dashboard apart and access the speedometer cable end that way. While I’m at it I can grease the bushing end where the cable goes and check out the overall condition of the dashboard. Maybe clean it up and check the bulbs, etc. I’ve been wanting to see if my Gen 1 bulb is burned out. It hasn’t worked since my mechanic messed with something else in the dash.

Is there anything I should be aware of when taking the dash apart?

Thank you in advance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
If it were me. I would disassemble the cluster from the front and avoid taking that potato chip fragile cluster housing out. Not sure why you would want to remove the cluster to replace the speedometer cable. If you release the friction clip on the back of the speedometer head you can pull the cable housing down and pull the entire cable out of the housing. Grease the present cable or just replace it. Or just replace the entire cable and housing. Very easy. Taking the cluster apart is optional. I just see a lot of extra work. Reach up and remove the Gen 1 bulb from the back side of the cluster. It may just need the contacts cleaned and replace it. Or just wiggle it around and see if you can get it working. Good Luck. That cluster housing is basically jammed in a hole in steel that doesn't fit very well and the danger of breaking fragile dried out plastic is real. Have at it and report back. Good Luck.
To release the speedometer cable push the cable end forward and contact the lock. When the lock is released pull the housing off male end of the speedometer. I hope that helps. Getting it clicked back in as as easy as pushing it back on and making contact with the lock clip.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
If it were me. I would disassemble the cluster from the front and avoid taking that potato chip fragile cluster housing out. Not sure why you would want to remove the cluster to replace the speedometer cable. If you release the friction clip on the back of the speedometer head you can pull the cable housing down and pull the entire cable out of the housing. Grease the present cable or just replace it. Or just replace the entire cable and housing. Very easy. Taking the cluster apart is optional. I just see a lot of extra work. Reach up and remove the Gen 1 bulb from the back side of the cluster. It may just need the contacts cleaned and replace it. Or just wiggle it around and see if you can get it working. Good Luck. That cluster housing is basically jammed in a hole in steel that doesn't fit very well and the danger of breaking fragile dried out plastic is real. Have at it and report back. Good Luck.
To release the speedometer cable push the cable end forward and contact the lock. When the lock is released pull the housing off male end of the speedometer. I hope that helps. Getting it clicked back in as as easy as pushing it back on and making contact with the lock clip.
I am so glad I asked and you answered. I’ll try what you suggested instead. Thank you again sir!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
If it were me. I would disassemble the cluster from the front and avoid taking that potato chip fragile cluster housing out. Not sure why you would want to remove the cluster to replace the speedometer cable. If you release the friction clip on the back of the speedometer head you can pull the cable housing down and pull the entire cable out of the housing. Grease the present cable or just replace it. Or just replace the entire cable and housing. Very easy. Taking the cluster apart is optional. I just see a lot of extra work. Reach up and remove the Gen 1 bulb from the back side of the cluster. It may just need the contacts cleaned and replace it. Or just wiggle it around and see if you can get it working. Good Luck. That cluster housing is basically jammed in a hole in steel that doesn't fit very well and the danger of breaking fragile dried out plastic is real. Have at it and report back. Good Luck.
To release the speedometer cable push the cable end forward and contact the lock. When the lock is released pull the housing off male end of the speedometer. I hope that helps. Getting it clicked back in as as easy as pushing it back on and making contact with the lock clip.
I finally had some free time. I was able to get to the Gen 2 bulb, sure enough it was bad. I replaced it and it’s now working! Is the light above the Gen 2 bulb (not sure what it is) supposed to come on when starting the engine? I replaced that one as well, it doesn’t light up. It did seem awfully dirty, so I wiped off the part that holds the bulb.

I was also able to pull the speedometer cable out from the back of the dash and inspect it. It seems to be the same length on that end as the new cable I bought. I’m thinking I’ll just replace the whole cable and see if that fixes the problem on the adapter assembly side.

Thank you again, I’ll report back. I should have some free time coming up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks