Who's running dynamic tire balancing beads?

[Ronmar]

Thanks, since I have no experience with the CTIS system yet, I'm a little in the dark in understanding what you posted. I assume the filters are inboard of the pipe you mention and not on the end where it would prevent anything from entering it?

They are where the tire side hose(smaller hose) connects to the wheel valve... they are fit in the port on the wheel valve where the hose attaches...

 

[Awesomeness]

Thanks, since I have no experience with the CTIS system yet, I'm a little in the dark in understanding what you posted. I assume the filters are inboard of the pipe you mention and not on the end where it would prevent anything from entering it?

The filters are in the wheel valves (bolted near the lugs), and are upstream of the inlet stem to the tire.

If you haven't seen/driven the truck yet, your assumption that wheel balance is a limiting factor may be incorrect. Most people do not have any kind of balancing done to their tires, even when they modified the truck to drive at higher speeds.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I found that a half gallon of anti-freeze in each tire worked well for me. I tried one quart (32oz) and that wasn't sufficient. I don't have any issue with the CTIS once the anti-freeze worked it's way past the bead lock. I had my rims powder coated and mounted the new tires myself. The balance seemed fine till I mounted the CTIS components and then I had a bit of vibration around 45 MPH and then again around 65 MPH. 64 oz of anti-freeze solved those issues.

 

[Ronmar]

I found that a half gallon of anti-freeze in each tire worked well for me. I tried one quart (32oz) and that wasn't sufficient. I don't have any issue with the CTIS once the anti-freeze worked it's way past the bead lock. I had my rims powder coated and mounted the new tires myself. The balance seemed fine till I mounted the CTIS components and then I had a bit of vibration around 45 MPH and then again around 65 MPH. 64 oz of anti-freeze solved those issues.

I have seen a few reports of people running antifreeze, and it just disappeared over time. not sure how that works…

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I have seen a few reports of people running antifreeze, and it just disappeared over time. not sure how that works…

Immediately after I added it I did get some that wanted to come back out the valve stem but once it went down into the tire proper past the bead locks I haven't had any signs of it. Not sure exactly how that would be possible. I have run my truck through a full cycle from sand to highway with it just sitting in the driveway and no signs of liquid or vapors that I could detect.

Here's a video done after many years of running antifreeze for balancing.

 

[GCecchetto]

The filters are in the wheel valves (bolted near the lugs), and are upstream of the inlet stem to the tire.

If you haven't seen/driven the truck yet, your assumption that wheel balance is a limiting factor may be incorrect. Most people do not have any kind of balancing done to their tires, even when they modified the truck to drive at higher speeds.

I certainly hope you are correct and it runs down the freeway smooth as a baby’s bottom because it’s a long way from Maryland to California

 

[aw113sgte]

I was looking into this a bit, ethelyene glycol is not a great choice as it's freezing point is relatively high (would freeze in my WI weather ). Propylene glycol has a much lower freeze point. Also it's non toxic.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I was looking into this a bit, ethelyene glycol is not a great choice as it's freezing point is relatively high (would freeze in my WI weather ). Propylene glycol has a much lower freeze point. Also it's non toxic.

You mix it with water - 25% water to 75% EG is enough.... Freezing point is about negative 50 degrees F or lower.

 

[aw113sgte]

You mix it with water - 25% water to 75% EG is enough.... Freezing point is about negative 50 degrees F or lower.

That introduces the variable of evaporation of the water though.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

That introduces the variable of evaporation of the water though.

Not going to happen in a mostly sealed tire. The air inside the tire can only hold so much water vapor and once it's saturated to it's dew point evaporation stops. There is some exchange over time as you inflate and deflate but it's not going to be much.

 

[aw113sgte]

Not going to happen in a mostly sealed tire. The air inside the tire can only hold so much water vapor and once it's saturated to it's dew point evaporation stops. There is some exchange over time as you inflate and deflate but it's not going to be much.

Totally agree, although with CTIS that introduces air exchange.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Totally agree, although with CTIS that introduces air exchange.

It does but unless you have a leaking tire or are using it all the time, there's not much air exchange. For most of us the tires stay in highway mode 98% of the time.

 

[Gunny 0369]

Old thread, but thought since I had not seen a lot of real-world experience results utilizing the media beads-
Here is what I have found that works very well with my set up-

FMTV 6X6 w Titan steel wheels with rubber Huchingson bead lockers. 395 85 R20 load range L tires, 11,500 lb at 130 psi max
(these are heavier than the G range)
I Average 8K annually.
I Started with:

1. (new) (395 80 R20) Good Year MVTs
2. true the wheels, at LEAST dump your dented or out of round ones. if they are questionable, *tru them by throwing them away and buying new ones.
3. MEDIA -80, grade 440 1/2 in. stainless steel balls totaling 24 ounces *per tire- THIS BALANCES THE TIRES
4. Balance the wheel. the CTIS assembly, nuts, base plate and hoses equal about 2lb 1 oz. offset that weight on the opposite side with weights,
( I used 8 and 10 ounce lead fishing weights, see pictures, two different styles) THIS BALANCES THE WHEEL

On the road, 0 to 40 mph the attached wheel weights kept the low-speed shimmy and bounce from appearing.
Above 40, the media kicks in and smooths the ride out even more.
My test to 65 mph brought me coffee-cup-on-the-dash smoothness. This mod has changed the way this truck rides completely.
** discovered when dismounting and checking takeoffs.
(one wheel was a throw away, the inside rim of a wheel was factory pressed 1/4 off of true. Additionally, I believe a tire had a broken belt or two from off road rocking)

Cost: balance beads/bearings $140.00 (BC Precision dot com) Fishing weights $2.00-$3.00

 

[coachgeo]

...
not seen a lot of real-world experience results utilizing the media beads-
Here is what I have found that works very well with my set up-...

much appreciate input. do you know if these balls are evenly distributed on both sides of the rubber run flat orr ? Have you had them apart recent ? Curious if those bearings beat up/break down the rubber bead flat. Would think their would be rubber dust inside if so. Inside wheel paint? (powder coat?) Is that standing up to the beads ok?

Run flat itself is heavy. would be interesting to see how balanced they are.

 

[Gunny 0369]

much appreciate input. do you know if these balls are evenly distributed on both sides of the rubber run flat orr ? Have you had them apart recent ? Curious if those bearings beat up/break down the rubber bead flat. Would think their would be rubber dust inside if so. Inside wheel paint? (powder coat?) Is that standing up to the beads ok?

Run flat itself is heavy. would be interesting to see how balanced they are.

Hey Coach

The media/balls are only on the tire side of the rubber BEAD locker ring.
The media/balls have not been in long enough for an inspection. I can recheck in 10k or so. I cannot guess what condition the tire and bead locker will be in, but I cannot believe there would be any damage. The balls only flop at low speeds, then over 40 stay relatively static once they reached balance location.
The media/balls have no contact with any Metallic surfaces, this is why I choose the Rubber Hutchingson bead lock rather than the later version steel/rubber bead locker.
As far as the rubber bead lockers being balanced, they are pretty consistent in their construction, unlike the CTIS kitchen sink bolted to the wheel by the Army engineers with a yippity kai yay.

 

[coachgeo]

Hey Coach

The media/balls are only on the tire side of the rubber BEAD locker ring.
The media/balls have not been in long enough for an inspection. I can recheck in 10k or so. I cannot guess what condition the tire and bead locker will be in, but I cannot believe there would be any damage. The balls only flop at low speeds, then over 40 stay relatively static once they reached balance location.
The media/balls have no contact with any Metallic surfaces, this is why I choose the Rubber Hutchingson bead lock rather than the later version steel/rubber bead locker.
As far as the rubber bead lockers being balanced, they are pretty consistent in their construction, unlike the CTIS kitchen sink bolted to the wheel by the Army engineers with a yippity kai yay.

ahhhh... ok... when you said rubber bead lock, my mind went to the big rubber run flat/bead lock combo.

 

[Gunny 0369]

ahhhh... ok... when you said rubber bead lock, my mind went to the big rubber run flat/bead lock combo.

Oh no.
Man, I don’t know if it would be worth trying to balance those things.

 

[Keith Knight]

First time I’ve seen the rubber bead lock. I like it, great work, keep us informed.

 

[GCecchetto]

First time I’ve seen the rubber bead lock. I like it, great work, keep us informed.

Those are the same ones in my wheels. I was told the rubber beadlocks were standard with the aluminum wheels, but from this thread it sounds like they are an older style that has been replaced with the metal one that bolts together.

 

[LMTV89]

I used these on the front wheels of my old mud truck and they worked. I was thinking about calling them to see what size would work on the LMTV https://www.centramatic.com/wheel-balance.rhtml?type=Heavy-Duty