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Why is my headlight fuse melting?

doghead

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Excellent!

So, lets fix that horn circuit issue next.

I suggest we simply eliminate the diode and the suppressor. Then see if the horn works.

The suppressor is near the horn(behind the grille, simply unplug it and plug the wire directly onto the horn.

The diode, you need to identify your horn relay, then untape the socket and cut the diode out with cutters.
 

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bp m1009

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awesome. i will definitely bypass both the diode and suppressor this weekend, there is no use for them anymore. Dumb question, can i remove my grille to get to the horn with the brush guard still on? i forget
 

Warthog

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Yes to the grill removal. Remove the headlight trim and then the grill.
 

scottladdy

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Be careful when removing the grill. There are delicate mounting tabs that often break. If you can get someone to assist that usually works best.
 

firefox

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If the diode can be verified as working by checking when the BO switch is engaged,
then is it still a good idea to remove or bypass it?
Bruce
 

cpf240

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I believe that the purpose of the diodes on the back of the various relays is to absorb the voltage produced in the relays coil when the relay is released, preventing this voltage "spike" from causing interference in the radio equipment. I doubt they are there on a civi CUCV equivalent vehicle. I'd say it is safe to remove them.
 

scottladdy

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I believe that the purpose of the diodes on the back of the various relays is to absorb the voltage produced in the relays coil when the relay is released, preventing this voltage "spike" from causing interference in the radio equipment. I doubt they are there on a civi CUCV equivalent vehicle. I'd say it is safe to remove them.
FYI, the replacement horn relay I obtained from NAPA has a diode built into it. Snipped the failed diode out and replaced the relay. All is well for 8 months now.
 

scottladdy

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Sometimes the issue with horn's not working is up in the steering wheel/column. There are a number of parts in there that are known to corrode or break.

Try some simple tests.

To see if the horn actually works, use a jumper wire from the battery to various connections in the horn circuit starting with the horn itself. At the same time, you can have soldier "B" press the horn in the cab while checking for voltage at the connection you are working on.

You can work back from the horn, or forward from the fuse box. In this case I would probably work backwards because I would start by knowing whether or not I have a good horn.
 

chesapeake

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I am in the process of taking out the suppressor and diode. I have already removed the suppressor, but not the diode. Trying to get to it from the floorboard is a pain. As far as cutting the diode out, do I need to splice the wires back together or I can I just cut the diode out and tape the loose end?
 

bp m1009

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I am in the process of taking out the suppressor and diode. I have already removed the suppressor, but not the diode. Trying to get to it from the floorboard is a pain. As far as cutting the diode out, do I need to splice the wires back together or I can I just cut the diode out and tape the loose end?
I was actually wondering this myself. I just cut the diode out yesterday. And left the ends there. Im kind of assuming you need to splice it back together but i was hoping that i didnt have to cause theres no room and the wire ends are so short.

My horn still doesnt work after removing the suppressor and diode, i think its the horn switch in the steering wheel.
 
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