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I was able to get to it from the bottom with some little wire snipsThat is the best news all day. Thank you. Now I just have to figure out how to get to it. So you have a preferred method to get to it easily. I have noticed a lot of pictures look like they were take from above
There is no real switch. Just a tab inside the horn button that makes a ground conection.my next question is how do i get the horn switch out? take the wheel off?
Read the -20 TM?my next question is how do i get the horn switch out? take the wheel off?
Thanks for the part #'s and if you feel its better to start a new thread you could if you'd like, doesnt matter to me.No other relay on the truck that is the same.
GM - 25523703
NAPA - HR143 - $9
Orielly's - R636 - $8
Do we need to start a horn issue thread as this one started as a melted headlight fuse?
Nope, your glasses are working well. Good observation!Is it just me, or does it look like your 12v buss is being fed from the 24v buss? I don't see the wire that normally comes off the front battery positive to the rear battery negative dog bone cable that runs to the 12v buss block. In the picture, it appears the ammeter is connected to the 24v buss to the wire leading to the 12v buss....
Do I need to clean my glasses?
What is this headlight relay modification? I am so bad at mechanicle issues, i feel like i wouldn't be able to do it anyway.Why not just do the headlight relay modification, which solves the immediate problem, and fixes and upgrades an obvious design flaw? Anybody who knows much about automotive electrical wiring will tell you that the CUCV headlight circuit is a poor design and set up for inevitable failure.
I ended up replacing my whole fuse block and doing the headlight relay modification. That not only fixed my melted headlight fuse problems, but cured a few other electrical gremlins, that up to then we had not been able to fix.
What do you mean put two new lugs in?If the plastic is melting that means that heat is being generated AT the fuse. That means there is a slight resistance in the contact surface of the fuse when it is plugged in. There should be close to zero Ohms of resistance across the connector when the fuse is plugged in.
THESE NUMBERS ARE EXAMPLES TO SHOW THE HEAT ACROSS A RESISTANCE. (I know they may not match the CUCV.)
Say a normal contact has .1 Ohms resistance.
P=I^2 x R = 9 Watts at say 30A when the lights are on = no problem
Say the same contact has 5 Ohms.
30Ax30A x 5 Ohms = 4,500Watts = problem
Your mileage may vary but it is because there is heat being generated at the fuse. I just watched this happen with my own two eyes 10 days ago working on wife's car. Headlight not working. Corrosion had increased the resistance of the headlight bulb connector and with the lights on I watched the wire that was showing start glowing red as it melted the connector. New bulb and cut the connector off and put two new lugs on fixed it.
What is this headlight relay modification? I am so bad at mechanicle issues, i feel like i wouldn't be able to do it anyway.
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