Working On The M561 Gama Goat

[mkcoen]

Mike,I know absolutely nothing about rebuilding diesel engines. Could I get by with a standard overhaul kit just to replace the liners and o-rings and keep the original water passage inserts? I really don't want to have to replace the engine but if overhaul kits aren't available not sure what options will work.

 

[Gamagoat1]

Mike,I know absolutely nothing about rebuilding diesel engines. Could I get by with a standard overhaul kit just to replace the liners and o-rings and keep the original water passage inserts? I really don't want to have to replace the engine but if overhaul kits aren't available not sure what options will work.

Sure. The special silicone and tubes were for help in preventing erosion at the deck of the aluminum block. The gasket kits come with normal o rings for this purpose. I do not think you'll run it enough to cause erosion if you keep your cooling system clean.

Pulling these engines is not a big deal. Pull the doghouse and seperate the linkage and jackshaft. Take the bolts out of the lower transmission steady mount. Disconnect the electric connector at the block under the alt. disconnect the line to the air cleaner sensor that is under the aircleaner housing, remove the mount bolts and lift it out. The real difficulty is getting to the front (rear) motor mount bolts. The engine comes out as a complete "Powerpack." Radiator transmission, everything. It's easier to work on outside the Goat. Takes about 1 1/2 hours to complete without rushing.

Just make sure when you order the kit that they know you are buying for the aluminum block.
By the way, the t stat is a special t stat. There are two circuits it controls. When the engine is cold the bypass circuit is open and the main flow circuit is closed. When opp. temp. is reached the bypass circuit closes as the main opens.. The number to look for is 3038144 which is a 170 degree opening temp. Iv'e included a pic of the right T stat.

 

[mkcoen]

View attachment 575612

Just make sure when you order the kit that they know you are buying for the aluminum block.
By the way, the t stat is a special t stat. There are two circuits it controls. When the engine is cold the bypass circuit is open and the main flow circuit is closed. When opp. temp. is reached the bypass circuit closes as the main opens.. The number to look for is 3038144 which is a 170 degree opening temp. Iv'e included a pic of the right T stat.

m38inmaine found the correct thermostat for me I just didn't want to spend nearly $90 for it. Running the NAPA one kept the temp right at 180 even sitting idling in 90 degree heat.

 

[Gamagoat1]

Sounds like it's working but I'd be a little concerned that the by-pass is still open and, that much, fluid is not circulating through the radiator. In the pic. you can see the second valve for the by-pass.(Little disc on the right) ,

Also, before you order a rebuild kit, check the block for cracks around the liners. Pull them first, or have whoever you get to rebuild it check.

I just rebuilt mine because I couldn't keep it cool. I live at 7000 ft. which has a lot to do with it but when the head was pulled I found little cracks radiating away from #1 exhaust valve set. Fun. Seems that there were a lot of problems with the original head and they( Detroit) began specking the head for the turbo charged 353. Same, but much harder and tolerant of high temps.

Would love to turbo my Goat but that cast iron block will not bolt in.

 

[Another Ahab]

Mike,I know absolutely nothing about rebuilding diesel engines. Could I get by with a standard overhaul kit just to replace the liners and o-rings and keep the original water passage inserts? I really don't want to have to replace the engine but if overhaul kits aren't available not sure what options will work.

It's likely a real good thing that you didn't know what you were getting into with your Goat purchase, mkcoen; and of course you didn't want this much adventure with your project.

This is no consolation for you I'm sure, but you couldn't have written a better script.

But please rest assured that your thread has now almost a monumental appeal for us armchair fans on the sidelines; on the edge of our seats for the next episodes. Because of you and your project I have learned to love the Goat.

We (well me anyway), are rooting for you throughout 100%.

 

[TexAndy]

bump... goat aid needed

 

[Another Ahab]

bump... goat aid needed

Is that a cry for assistance, a Mayday?

 

[mkcoen]

I've been having a lot of troubles with the lights on the trailer used to haul the Goat. Things started going hinky on the way back from the MVPA convention in June and just got worse to the point that everything stopped working. Then I couldn't even use the magnetic lights I have and thought it was the truck as I changed out the tow fuse and the trailer lights still wouldn't work. Found the issue last night. After I changed the fuse it immediately blew again as soon as I plugged the trailer in. Not too happy about this happening on a 6 month old trailer.

 

[m38inmaine]

Looks like it chafed and shorted, brown is your running lights. Replaced many of those wiring harnesses. Glad you found the problem.

 

[Another Ahab]

I've been having a lot of troubles with the lights on the trailer used to haul the Goat. Then I couldn't even use the magnetic lights I have and thought it was the truck as I changed out the tow fuse and the trailer lights still wouldn't work. Found the issue last night.

That right there will do it.

The short is usually at the very opposite end of the wire harness that you trace to locate the d*** thing (or maybe that's only my personal good luck).

How long did it take to find that?

 

[mkcoen]

That right there will do it.

The short is usually at the very opposite end of the wire harness that you trace to locate the d*** thing (or maybe that's only my personal good luck).

How long did it take to find that?

Started at the plug and this was at the right tail light (so the end of the line of course). The trailer manufacturer torch drilled holes going rearward than welded washers on the frame going across the trailer to run the wires through. No relief from chafing at all. Hopefully this will prevent it in the future.

 

[Another Ahab]

That right there will do it.

The short is usually at the very opposite end of the wire harness that you trace to locate the d*** thing (or maybe that's only my personal good luck).

How long did it take to find that?

Started at the plug and this was at the right tail light (so the end of the line of course). The trailer manufacturer torch drilled holes going rearward than welded washers on the frame going across the trailer to run the wires through. No relief from chafing at all. Hopefully this will prevent it in the future.

Good man, mkcoen; so you followed the Rules (as written in Murphy's Text, Volumes 1-10).

I salute you.

Making things easy is always a sure sign you're not doing it right.

 

[Another Ahab]

No relief from chafing at all. Hopefully this will prevent it in the future.
View attachment 580370

That's a slick solution.

I'm not a "sparky" by any stretch, so please excuse my ignorance:

- But what are those terminations on either side of the cable "wrap"?

 

[mkcoen]

That's a slick solution.

I'm not a "sparky" by any stretch, so please excuse my ignorance:

- But what are those terminations on either side of the cable "wrap"?


View attachment 580372

Zip ties to keep the conduit from moving.

 

[Keith_J]

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Detr...etroit-Diesel-Series-53-Service-Manual-01.pdf

I would rule out the head gasket as if leaking, coolant could migrate to cylinders, then out the ports and to the air box slobber tube.

 

[mkcoen]

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Detr...etroit-Diesel-Series-53-Service-Manual-01.pdf

I would rule out the head gasket as if leaking, coolant could migrate to cylinders, then out the ports and to the air box slobber tube.

I'm going to try Tom's suggestion and retorque all the head bolts today to see if that does anything. I'm getting tired of sitting on this and not getting anything done.

Edit: On hold again. Got the valve cover off and discovered my torque wrench only goes to 150 (Goat head is 170-180). Need to see if I can borrow a bigger wrench.

 

[Another Ahab]

I'm going to try Tom's suggestion and retorque all the head bolts today to see if that does anything. I'm getting tired of sitting on this and not getting anything done.

Edit: On hold again. Got the valve cover off and discovered my torque wrench only goes to 150 (Goat head is 170-180). Need to see if I can borrow a bigger wrench.

Isn't that ALWAYS the way!??

The Gods find great laughter in our daily struggles. Crying's no help, so we just got to laugh along with them, you know?

 

[mkcoen]

Well Fate is kicking me in the Goat-nads again. Thought I could borrow an appropriately sized torque wrench but struck out. Then I went to Northern Tool hoping to get a cheap, one use model. All of theirs in 150# plus were sold out (and not cheap). And I'm not paying for a decent wrench that I'll only use once.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

I can check to see if I can find one to borrow before I come next Wednesday if you would like.

 

[mkcoen]

I can check to see if I can find one to borrow before I come next Wednesday if you would like.

If you can, that'd be great!