XM757 details

[cranetruck]

Thanks for the heads up on that, guess the corrugated feature collects sand and dirt, which does the wearing.

 

[WillWagner]

Even w/o the dirt, the loom will wear thru wiring and metal parts it it not secured or the wires aren't wrapped with electrical tape. I'll take pictures when I see it. On busses and such that have copper lines, we just P clip the lines to each other. No chafing that way.

 

[cranetruck]

Right or wrong, I have seem the plastic loom used on the FMTV trucks near the rear composite lights. The image below is from the engine compartment, which I havn't seen in real life, but the manual indicates that they are used. TM 9-2320-392-10-1

 

[red devils dude]

hey Bjorn love the new project

 

[wideload]

xm757 in scrapyard

Here is a picture of somthing similar in a scrapyard in Holland i took last year, is it a 757? The place is Reomie near Nimegen.

 

[maddawg308]

RE: xm757 in scrapyard

Sad to see such a cool MV as the 757 being used as a parts wagon in a junkyard. Wish the rig was in USA somewhere, be a lot easier than trying to bring it back over here from Holland.

 

[cranetruck]

That's the M656, my first choice since it actually "swims" when everything is up to par. Equipped with a watertight cargo bay and pressurized door seals. It comes complete with bilge pumps!
Here are two more images.

 

[cranetruck]

See, it floats.

 

[cranetruck]

Beautiful day here, clear skies, calm and room temp outside.

Removed the #6 injector for inspection a while ago, here are the images:
Note that it's a single hole injector.

Image #3 shows how easily the filter elements are replaced from the top.

 

[WillWagner]

Well....did you make smoke yet????

 

[maddawg308]

I believe he wants it to run, WITHOUT smoking up a lot.

 

[cranetruck]

Don't have the fuel system ready yet, need the fuel pump to get rid of the air in the lines.
I have cranked it several times with fuel supply and return in a gallon jug of fuel, but have trouble bleeding the system this way.
Since I don't have a fuel tank, I'm thinking about plumbing it to the deuce fuel tank just to get it started.

The low air buzzer disable switch comes in handy when the engine is cranking for periods of time.

Finally got the fuel shut-off solenoid working today.

 

[WillWagner]

But smoke is a good thing. That means it runs! No fuel tank is a problem. Will the tank from the 656 work? Shipping might not be too bad if there isn't any in the USA.

 

[JDToumanian]

Bjorn, if you can't wait for the fuel pump, there is a cheap and easy way to bleed air from those fuel lines that I learned from the fellas in the 2-stroke Detroit Diesel forum I'm on... Use a rubber fuel primer bulb from an outboard motor fuel tank for a boat. They are available at WalMart on the cheap, just put it on the input side and squeeze the bulb until you get a clear stream of fuel returning to your jug from the return side. Fire that sucker up!

Jon

 

[cranetruck]

Hmmm..Jon, I tried it again today, but it didn't come to life.
Used a small electric fuel pump to bleed the lines, perhaps it created a problem by not having
the capacity to supply the amount of fuel needed when I was cranking the engine. The return flow was minimal,
nowhere near the 2 qts/minute I see from a regular pump.
Maybe I'd be better off without the small pump after the lines are bled... I'll try that tomorrow.
Also, plumbed in the final fuel filter today using 3/8" nylon tubing (#11), as suggested by Robert Miller.

 

[JDToumanian]

Hi Bjorn,
I know they say the multifuel engines self prime well, but my truck had not run in many years when I bought it, and to prevent having to crank the engine excessively I loosened the metal lines at the injectors with a tubing wrench. It took only a few seconds of cranking before I could see fuel spraying in the air... I tightened the fittings and the engine started instantly as it has ever since. If getting the injector pump primed is proving troublesome for you this could be a simple solution, or a way to narrow down what the problem is.

Regards,
Jon

 

[cranetruck]

Good suggestion Jon, will do it first thing tomorrow. Weather permitting, of course, we don't live in the desert.

 

[cranetruck]

Used the small electric transfer pump to fill and prime the system. The filters were bled and all set to go.
I removed the pump from the circuit to let the IP suck fuel directly from the jug.

Cranking it resulted in nothing, no fire.
Checked #6 injector feed line by loosening it, but there was no fuel when the engine was cranked, so I need to trouble shoot the IP before anything else will happen.
It's in a tight spot, really no access from the side at all, had one heck of a time installing the cut-off solenoid and now it has to come off again along with the FDC so that I can check the action of the fuel control rod....

Have to work on my Isuzu Trooper for a few days, so the 8x8 will have to wait for a while.

 

[cranetruck]

Cleaned off the area around the hydraulic head, including removing the oil filter canisters and #3 and #5 injector lines, to gain access to the center plug on the hydraulic head.
Removed the plug.
As suggested by David Doyle, I placed a small steel rod in the opening on the plunger and cranked the engine. The rod only moved an 1/8 of an inch, if that much.
A couple of light taps on the rod seemed to loosen it.
Cranked it gain and noticed a definite movement up and down, perhaps a 1/4 inch or more.
I compared the movement with an IP on my work bench and it appears to be all right now.

I'm replacing the coolant hose behind the oil canisters and replacing a broken plastic fuel return line this afterrnoon, so it probably wont be until tomorrow before I try to fire the engine up. Man, sometimes it's nice to find something wrong!

 

[Recovry4x4]

Bjorn, gonna try to light it up today? Please let us know as soon as its lit!