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Yes Im Posting ANOTHER Filter Thread!!

cranetruck

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It would mean a lot of work just to gain 2 seconds or so in time to oil pressure. The filter is almost touching the fender as it sits now.
The main reason for this test is to demonstrate improvement in filtration. I'm also monitoring the pressure drop across the filter. I'll keep it installed for 1,000 miles at least. I'm not overly concerned about the "dry starts" when the truck is started several times a week.
 

cranetruck

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Matt, I didn't add any oil, the required volume should be about the same as before, although it will show a bit lower on the dip stick with the new filter staying filled up.
I'll check it tomorrow, but don't plan on adding any even if the level is a little below normal.

Kenny, I may have two hours on it at this time with the new filter, that's all.
 

PWM

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I really like the setup on your truck Bjorn. Today I decided to shorten my heater so I could do a similar oil filter mount in the future if it works out OK. It only took me a couple hours to shorten the heater and put it back together. I went to mock up the heater and noticed I have a different fender than most of the other trucks I have seen. My fender is square and almost touches the steering column, the others are angled down to the frame. Now I have to find a different spot for the remote filter. The square fender does make a nice place to step when opening and closing the hood, so shortening the heater was not a total waste of time.

Pete
 

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cranetruck

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Pete, D-man's single filter assy requires about 18 inches of vertical space with clearance to change it and all.

You should have space for a bypass filter on the flat forward of the heater. It won't help time-to-oil pressure, but it will improve oil filtration and will not upset the original design goals of the oiling system on the mil spec multi engine.
 

houdel

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Re the heater cut down - If you are going to do all that work to cut down the heater to provide space for the remote filters, why not just do what has been suggested in previous posts and relocate the heater box INSIDE the cab? It couldn't be that much more work, and for those of us in the frigid north should improve heater performance, as that sheet metal box must be losing quite a bit of heat to the outdoors. Having the box inside the cab would mean that otherwise "lost" heat would instead go towards warming up the cab, not to mention completely freeing up the left fender for whatever you want to put there, and gaining better access to the fuel injection pump!
 

PWM

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Bjorn thanks for all the information you share with us. It will be a lot easier to check locations when I actually have the filter and base. I like the idea of easier filter changes, and better filtration. I have been under the hood of my truck a million times. I have worked on a couple of my friends trucks, not to mention all the trucks I was around in the military, and never noticed my fender was different. Lee I have read the post about putting the heater in the cab. For some reason I like the heater on the fender, I don’t know why. The shorter box should be easier to fit under the dash, if I changed my mind. Now that it is warmer it is hard to get motivated to finish installing the heater.

Pete.
 

cranetruck

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At least in Virginia and South, the heater is rarily needed. After 1/2 hour on the road, the firewall gets hot enough to heat the crew compartment (even with my bikini top). It comes in handy for defrosting the windshield, that's about the extent of my usage.
If you are running hot, it may also help lower the engine op temp a degree or two.
 

dmetalmiki

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Phew

It took me forever to read the filter saga!..and still could not work out what was intended/acheived..(mebbe old age). SO, you want good start up pressure? SIMPLE..a 24 volt gear pump. (ex fork truck or pallet truck) ONE pipe from sump. One Pipe to (any) filter housing. Wire up through a 24Volt solenoid. Whalla! INSTANT GOOD perssure on fire up. See my VIDS on SS. Or Utube. Good luck.
 
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