Yet another transmission replacement thread!

[General Mcgregor]

Ok so I have opted out of replacing just my main shaft with the trans in the truck (refer to thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/58936-transmission-problem.html) Yesterday I was lucky enough to buy a good used 3053A for $150.00 BUCKS!! (thank you craigslist ) It does however need a gasket set and some pto studs, the gaskets are on the way to my house now and I figure I will just use the studs off the old transmission. However having never done this before I just wanted to get a few questions answerd first.
1. How difficult will it be to move the transmission back out of the bell housing if I am using the 'across the door' static overhead lift method?
2. This may sound like a rookie question, Does the clutch or any of it's components slide out WITH the transmission or does the entire assembely stay inside the engine bell housing?
3. If the trans is going to be out anyway should I replace the clutch? I know it had been done a couple years before I bought it and I know it is going to depend on it's condition upon inspection but I just wanted to see if it was the rule of thumb or anything.
4. Will a broomstick/dowel/whatever work as well as a clutch alignment tool or should I look to grab one of those? I'm not even sure of the correct process of aligning my clutch so some advice on that would be a big help!
5. There seems to be a read adhesive or putty gasket material between my engine bellhousing and the trans bellhousing, What is it? Do I need it? And where can I get it?

Thats it for now I guess, I will post pics of the entire swap when I begin as a thank you to all who respond to this post. I hope it will help others with the dreaded task as well! Feel free to post your own pics and proceedures.

 

[mckeeranger]

It's just like a pickup truck, just much bigger and heavier.

1. I used an engine hoist through the passenger door method, but a bar through the open windshield and back window will work. I wouldn't do it across the doors, it might be too much weight. Honestly, I don't know.
2. The clutch and pressure plate will stay on the flywheel when you pull out the transmission.
3. I usually replace the clutch when I have a transmission out, but if it's pretty new, you might wait to see what it looks like.
4. Believe it or not, I usually just eyeball it, sitting on the ground looking into it. A dowel of the right diameter will work well. Again, it's just like any other truck, just bigger.
5. I think there is a gasket between the bell housing and the engine, it's been almost a year since I had our out. I know there was one between the bell housing and the transmission. It keeps out water when deep fording. If you see a red sealer, it's probably just off the shelf from a parts store.

Another note: It's a good idea to replace the self locking nuts on the short drive shaft between the transmission and transfer case. They sometimes tend to vibrate loose. Don't use the nylock nuts, use the crimped steel.

I've added pics of the transmission and engine bell housings. There was not a gasket between them on ours.

 

[JDToumanian]

You're just wanting to swap out transmissions, right? Then if the clutch is known to be low mileage / new, I would just swap out the transmissions and not mess with anything else. You won't take the clutch, flywheel, or bell-housing apart at all, and you won't need a clutch plate aligning tool since you won't unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel. The transmission will pull right out, lower it to the ground, raise the new one up and guide it in. Piece of cake, a 2-hour job at most.

Jon

 

[Heavysteven]

Just thinking but what the rear engine seal? I don't know for sure but I if I understand it this would be a good time to replace.

Need a new thread "while the trans is out". Maybe a list of things that should be done since you have gone that far.

Good luck on your install be safe when moving around weight.

 

[General Mcgregor]

You're just wanting to swap out transmissions, right? Then if the clutch is known to be low mileage / new, I would just swap out the transmissions and not mess with anything else. You won't take the clutch, flywheel, or bell-housing apart at all, and you won't need a clutch plate aligning tool since you won't unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel. The transmission will pull right out, lower it to the ground, raise the new one up and guide it in. Piece of cake, a 2-hour job at most.

Jon

Yes just the transmission is being replaced, So there is no need for clutch alignment in this case? So the clutch and pressure plate stay where they are upon trans removal?

 

[JDToumanian]

Yes that's correct. You can see in mckeeranger's pics above that the clutch and pressure plate stay attached to the flywheel, so they won't need to be lined up again. The transmission has the throwout bearing and it's carrier and shaft attached. You may want to replace the throwout bearing, but if it was done when the clutch was replaced, it's probably still good. You can just move it over to the new transmission if it doesn't have a new or good used one.

As for the rear main seal.... Personally, if I was just swapping out the transmission, I wouldn't replace the seal. If I was replacing the clutch (with the accompanying flywheel turning), I would. Why remove the good clutch and flywheel just to replace a non-leaking seal? Seems like a lot of extra work, the transmission can be removed so easily if the seal should go at a later date.

Jon

 

[roger-wilco-66]

Just out of interest, when the clutch is exposed like on the picture above, can it be measured somehow to determine its wear status?
Maybe this would help in deciding if its time to replace it now or later on.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[mckeeranger]

Just out of interest, when the clutch is exposed like on the picture above, can it be measured somehow to determine its wear status?
Maybe this would help in deciding if its time to replace it now or later on.

Not really.

You could probably take a small inspection mirror and see if there is "meat" left on the disk, but it wouldn't show you much.

To do a proper inspection, you would need to take the pressure plate off. Honestly, it only takes about 15-20 minutes to take it out and put it back in.

I don't know how old our is. I know the KSP didn't replace it when they owned the truck, so it's at least 8 years old but looked good. I just reused it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

AL(kaiserjeeps) was swapping his clutch and ask for measurements. JunkyardWarsCrusher measured the new clutch from a clutch kit he bought at MVPA nationals and measured one that we had that was used. The used one was thicker than the new one. If it isn't slipping, don't swap it out!

 

[General Mcgregor]

Hey mckeeranger, would you happen to know the dimensions of those self locking nuts as well as the best place to get them?

 

[Crazyguyla]

you can use the input shaft off the "bad" transmission as an alignment tool for the clutch.

 

[tsstout]

the nuts on the drive shaft are 1/2" by 20 grade 8

1/2"-20 Yellow Zinc Finish Grade 9 Top Lock Nut | Fastenal

 

[General Mcgregor]

Ok so Here is the progress so far:
All of the tunnel pieces have been removed and so has the shifter.
My HiLift jack is my overhead 'gantry'
I went out to my local general store and bought a generic 1 ton chain hoist for $30.00
Also got two 2' lengths of industrial grade chain and one screw type high capacity carabiner
And a tube of RTV sealant and gasket maker

Got home and assembled my 'crane' The top of the HiLift jack goes out the driver's side window. The bottom goes against the rear of the cab where the rear piece of the hardtop meets the cab itself. The shape and size of the HiLift base allows for even weight distribition an makes the bar just about level with the front window frame. Wrapped one 2' length of chain around the bar and connected it to itself with the carabiner. (This should allow me to move the hoist back and fourth along the bar using a crowbar.) The top hook of the hoist is connected to the chain on the bar. The second length of chain is bolted diagonally across the transmission cover plate allowing enough slack for the chain to be held 6 inches above the shifter stud. By doing this I can move the hook of the hoist to different links of the chan to keep it level.

Thats it for now, I guess you can say these are my safety measures. Next up: disconnecting the pto and front axle shafts, removing the output shaft, remove bellhousing bolts. Hope to have the trans out by Friday if I'm not too busy.

The replacement tranny sits patiently waiting on a cart under the truck.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

Thanks for the pictures.

 

[jwaller]

there is no need to remove the front axle shafts or output shaft.
if you have a pto then disconnect the shaft from it, you can remove the pto when it's on the ground.

simply remove short shaft, top cover and unbolt trans from the motor. should take no more than 15min.

 

[General Mcgregor]

there is no need to remove the front axle shafts or output shaft.
if you have a pto then disconnect the shaft from it, you can remove the pto when it's on the ground.

simply remove short shaft, top cover and unbolt trans from the motor. should take no more than 15min.

Yeah jwaller but I want to make sure the front driveshaft dosen't interfere with the removal (sorry if I said axleshafts lol), and my plan was to remove the pto when it was on the ground anyway. But are you telling me it is possible to leave the output shaft in the truck?

 

[General Mcgregor]

Waiting on the new gaskets for the replacement trans.
It's been sitting dry in a barn for a few years, does anyone have any recommendations for a good re-break-in proceedure?

I plan on blasting the inside with 120psi to get rid of any and all small fragments of metal/dust.
Then I was going to fill it with gear oil once installed and with the transfer in neutral run it through the gears at a mid range rpm... any thoughts?

 

[jwaller]

But are you telling me it is possible to leave the output shaft in the truck?

leave the front driveshaft in place. it doesn't need to come out.

on the install of your new trans, I'd remove the drain plug and with the top cover off spray it down with carb cleaner. hose it down and then once it's in the truck, fill with the proper 50wt motor oil before installing the top cover.

Yes 50wt motor oil is what spicer recommends for the trans. 80-90 is too heavy.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

Yes 50wt motor oil is what spicer recommends for the trans. 80-90 is too heavy.[/QUOTE]




Looks like I need to drain my tranny.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Looks like I need to drain my tranny.[/QUOTE]
Yeah it's a good thing or I would have used 80-90 too!
Thanks jwaller!