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Yet another transmission replacement thread!

mudguppy

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Yeah jwaller but I want to make sure the front driveshaft dosen't interfere with the removal ...
J's correct - i just did a removal and the driveshaft can stay.

also, you don't have to unbolt the winch drive shaft - just let it pull out of the slip yoke. then pull/replace the PTO with flange and yoke assy still attched to the PTO flange. re-align during final transmission alignment. or, take it off once on the ground and reinstall once trans/PTO is back in.
 
980
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Location
Dover, New Hampshire
J's correct - i just did a removal and the driveshaft can stay.

also, you don't have to unbolt the winch drive shaft - just let it pull out of the slip yoke. then pull/replace the PTO with flange and yoke assy still attched to the PTO flange. re-align during final transmission alignment. or, take it off once on the ground and reinstall once trans/PTO is back in.
Could I do the same thing with the front half of the output shaft? That would make my life alot easier!
 

mudguppy

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Could I do the same thing with the front half of the output shaft? That would make my life alot easier!



no, for two reasons:
  1. the jack shaft has a 'dust seal' that is under the 'dust cap' - this cap is what you see screwed onto the threaded end of the slip yoke. this dust cap and seal arrangement uses a clip to keep the splines of the yoke shaft from damaging the dust seal. this clip, along with the dust cap, will prevent the yoke shaft (small end) from being pulled out of the slip yoke (large end) with the dust cap still screwed onto the yoke.
  2. you could unscrew the dust cap from the slip yoke; this will permit pulling the yoke shaft out of the yoke. however, you will not have room to actually pull the yoke shaft out of the yoke while still attached to the transmission - the yoke shaft will need to be able to slide at least 2.5" in order to be pulled out of the yoke. with the transmission in the way, you won't be able to do this. also, the amount of travel that this slip gives you (~1"-ish) will not be anywhere near the amount that you will need to slide the transmission rearward for extraction.
 
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steelandcanvas

Well-known member
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Location
Southwestern Idaho
Another note: It's a good idea to replace the self locking nuts on the short drive shaft between the transmission and transfer case. They sometimes tend to vibrate loose. Don't use the nylock nuts, use the crimped steel.
Good thread, lots of good info for a task I might be doing soon. Thanks to all who posted. I have a question though, what is the problem with using ny-lock nuts, as opposed to using crimped steel?
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
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Location
Southwestern Idaho
Originally Posted by mckeeranger
Another note: It's a good idea to replace the self locking nuts on the short drive shaft between the transmission and transfer case. They sometimes tend to vibrate loose. Don't use the nylock nuts, use the crimped steel.

What is the problem with using ny-lock nuts, as opposed to using crimped steel?
 

mckeeranger

Member
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Location
Eastern Kentucky
I have a question though, what is the problem with using ny-lock nuts, as opposed to using crimped steel?
I admit to being a parakeet and repeating what I have heard. There was a thread here about a year ago where someone warned not to use ny-locks for this specific application.

It was proven true for me when I had a new set of ny-locks work loose on a backhoe drive shaft at around 200 hours of use. I knew they were torqued properly, because I had done it myself. I learned my lesson and replaced them with the crimped steel lock nuts. It's been over 300 hours and they are still tight.

I may look for that old post sometime. If I find it, I'll link it here.
 

wb1895

Member
876
16
18
Location
Lexington NC
I just pulled the tranny out of my deuce last week. Another piece of advise, put a furniture dolly or small piece of plywood where your transmission will land on the ground. Hook a strap to the plywood so, when the tranny is out all you have to do is pull it out from under the truck.
 
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