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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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allenhillview

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Jonesborough, TN.
Just a few Pics of stereo install, notice corner doesn't hang over, milled piece out for this and raised, moved left.
Seat in most rearward position after box was built THAT was a task with keeping enough air for sub.
Thanks to all who gave advice on wiring,Doghead, etc...IMG_0014.jpgIMG_0041.jpgIMG_0044.jpgIMG_0048.jpgIMG_0040.jpgIMG_0046.jpgIMG_0047.jpg
 

chevyCUCV

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I seized a brake caliper the other day.
I just placed my order from rockauto for the parts. ( cheaper than local place by a lot+ better quality i hope )

Also i took my truck off the road. Whenever i decide to re register it i think i will use antique plates.
 
367
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18
Location
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Originally Posted by 1ton cucv k5 turbo

Noted a few weeks ago..... had an issue with charging system pushing 30+ volts and then nothing....... i had gen1 rebuilt, due to being in a rush to be mission ready, for a trail ride, ( which, fell through at the last minute...) cost me 80something bucks.... Stll pushed 30+ volts. I then went and had Gen2 rebuilt at a different vendor... (cost $25.00 helping out an ole school disabled vet... PRICELESS.. He has a customer for life BTW....) Went ahead and paid him to build me a replacement spare, should be ready in a few days.... System currently still pushing 29-30 volts... Thinking the high dollar rebuild on GEN1 is kinda hot, cranking out a full 15+ volts... ( voltmeter in dash currently sits just a hair in the red, and not in the normal green position..) gonna wait until i have spare in hand and installed to see if it drops it down to the correct 28 volts.



Suggestion:

Check the voltage across the terminals in each battery separately with engine running and dash voltmeter in the red. Report back what you find please.

Sorry for the delay... its been about 3 weeks since i could get back to this... Was finally able to pick up a 3rd ( spare ) alt i had built... swapped it out this past weekend.. and Cha ching... its charging correctly again.. at 28volts.. All is good now with ole Beulah.. took the Alt in question and had it tested... and its a HOT one.. putting out 15.8 volts.... So, its still under warranty... gonna get those idiots in Nashville to fix it..( this will be the 3rd and last time, i have them do any Alt work for me...).


So, now... with a new job change, and some medical stuff coming up... gonna have to hold off on any new upgrades for a bit...
 

Recovry4x4

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GA Mountains
Lets see! Pulled the cluster out of the M1010 today as it had no lights. Got everything cleaned up and she should be OK now. Did put LED bulbs in but they were weak (after dark check) and put 194s back in. Also drilled the back channel bumper for the military trailer plug. Bought a new plug from Eriks and did all the solder connections on that as well. Perhaps tomorrow I can button up the dash and get the trailer plug installed and the wires tapped in. I've also been troubleshooting the side floods on it lately. Problem one was there was no relay under the dash. Quelled that problem and got power to one side but not the other. When I pulled the dash I checked the switches and one flood light switch was bad. Swapped over the switch from the GPFU so should be GTG.
 

Ferroequinologist

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I just fought with putting new brakes, all new hardware, and new oil seal on the driver side of the Hyrailer for about 4 hours... I dinged the seal a little when I was putting it in the drum, so I hope it doesn't start leaking for a long time.

I would have done the other side but it is almost 2300 and I don't feel like dragging out the steam cleaner (I'm doing the brakes and seals on both sides as the pass side was leaking oil bad.) and then fighting with that side as well.
 

Vhyle

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Clarksville, TN
The replacement fuel drainback line just shipped to my door, so now I can put the truck back together this weekend. I'll also be doing trans filter and gasket, glow plugs and fuel filter.
 

mtn man

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81
10
8
Location
Wilkesboro, NC
Did rotor/hubs on front, pads, repacked wheel bearings and calipers last night. Drove the 1009 100 miles to airport this am and thank goodness no issues.
 

2HIJOS2126

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IDAHO FALLS, ID.
I cut up some metal to start building my safari/headache rack...gonna go to a buddys shop tomorrow and start welding it together... I'll post pics of the progress later next week...
 

CARNAC

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What have I done with my CUCV lately?

Well, I killed the electrica system this evening. How's that for good work. REplaced the alternator, hooked up the negative and poof, sparks, smoke from the engine side of the firewall. FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

ryan77

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Cary IL
What have I done with my CUCV lately?

Well, I killed the electrica system this evening. How's that for good work. REplaced the alternator, hooked up the negative and poof, sparks, smoke from the engine side of the firewall. FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Was alcohol involved?????:burn:
 

ryan77

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Finally got the m1009 home from gsa in Tifton GA. Took 3 weeks and 4 different shipping company's but finally got it home. Truck has no brakes and didnt run and its 20 degrees out. Luckily my wife volunteered to steer while i used my van push it in the garage. 2 new batteries and a oil change and she fired up!!pamblazer.jpg
 

SGT LongT

Member
203
23
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Palm Bay, FL
Finally upgraded my fuel filter from the original box type to a spin on filter. I used the FM100 series from Stanadyne that I purchased from thedieselstore.com. For those of you considering a spin on fuel filter upgrade I high recommend this series. The FM100 series is modular with numerous options that include water in fuel sensor, fuel heater, lift pump, and others. The spin on fuel filters are themselves varied for size and micron rating. I chose to put on a hand primer pump that sits on the top of the unit and the clear bowl that screws onto the bottom of the filter for visual water in fuel checks. I ended up having to make a mounting bracket for the fuel filter only because I put the hand pump primer on the unit, otherwise the filter unit would have bolted right into the holes on the fire wall where the original fuel filter bracket is bolted.new and old.jpgmounted.jpg
Parts list from thedieselstore.com: 33642 (housing and filter) STA29575 (150 micron prefilter) STA29899 (clear fuel bowl) STA29578 (hand primer pump)
 

CARNAC

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Some photos of my wonderful work frying my system last night. Am I good or what. I think the alternator was the wrong type or not of the negative ground type. IMG_0977.jpgIMG_0979.jpg
 

ryan77

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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?

Pulled the mold mobile out today to clean it! Nuked it inside and out with bleach and pressure washed it! Next will be body work and paint!ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361731150.193393.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1361731162.573354.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1361731190.905304.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1361731210.525388.jpg
 

CARNAC

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Thanks, even though you did ban me, LOL.

Will have all my alternators rebuild and ensure they use the isolated ground on them.

Hopefully I only fried the two wires leading to the block. I'll replace the one wire leading to the battery. I'll splice, solder and heat shrink the one going down to the wiring harness. I'll have a spare glow plug relay and card on hand and hopefully that will take care of this.

Thanks DH.
 

chief1983

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290
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16
Location
Saint Charles, MO
Would a continuity test between the negative terminal and the alternator housing be sufficient for checking the rebuild before install? Would be a good tip to spread around if so.
 
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