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Wilson Electric Alternator - Field Report
I just replaced the drivers side alternator in my M1008A1, err, sort of.
Back story
At some point in it's life, the drivers side alternator was replaced with a brand new (as in a few years newer than original) alt. Correct part number, but clearly a much newer casting. Then, it looks like the alt was hacked up a bit. It worked OK though.
Last Fall I took it apart to freshen it with parts from CUCV Electric. Well, I knew something was up when I looked at the rotor winding. It clearly had been overheated (over current) at some point. Not having the time to deal with it then I decided to button it back up. Hey, the brushes were barely worn. I figured I could go with it until it got warmer in the Spring and I could figure out what to do to it then.
Well, my cousin Murphy said no to my plans. One night on the way home from a troop meeting I heard a pop, headlights dimmed, and Gen 1 light came on all bright and shiney like. I took the alternator apart to find the rotor was now open. Clearly, the over current she suffered in the past had taken it's toll.
So, instead of buying a new rotor for about $120 (cheapest I could find). I decided to pick up a Wilson. Refurbed in Mexico. Heeding the concerns I read here about them not being properly rebuilt, isolated ground and all, my plan was to scavenge the good bits from the Wilson and rebuild the original. Success on this front.
What did I find out about the Wilson?
Well, when I got it apart, it was clear that this was more of a refresh than a rebuild, and certainly not a re-manufacture. It was tested and had a cert in the box that "proved" it was good. But, corners were cut.
The good
New bearings
Clean housing (mostly)
New battery and "r" terminals
New brushes (but one of them was cracked near the tip)
It was isolated ground, sort of.
New hardware (mostly) was used
Nice packaging
The OK (functional but re-used components)
Voltage Reg
Diode Trio
Rectifier (made in China sticker)
Capacitor
Brush Holder
Stator (expected this)
Rotor (expected this, out of a cadi and has an SAE thread, but aside from that appears identical to the original)
Front Housing helicoiled to SAE equivalent (not a bad job, and they provided a bolt, but would have been better if made metric as original)
The Bad
Insulating washers for the rectifier weren't "right". The correct pieces are fairly flush, these were a little too thick.
The negative terminal is now a large head screw. It should be OK, but clearly a lower cost option than the "proper" negative terminal.
The insulator for the negative terminal is a hodge podge of fiber washers (not correct thickness as noted above) and a small section of vinyl tubing for the through case insulator.
So, I think the Wilson alternator would work. But given the fact that some of the more failure prone items weren't replaced, coupled with the improvised hardware, I'm not sure about longevity. Would I buy one again given my circumstances? Sure. Got it mail order for about $150. I have a lot of spare parts now, and my drivers side alt is functioning just fine again. Overall I spent less going this route than if I had replaced the failed parts with new. And, since I did the re-build, I am certain of the job.
I hope this helps others.
The short answer is, not quite. Circuits inside the alternator will allow some current to flow to ground that will be picked up by your meter depending on the polarity of the ohmmeter. Plus, you really have to open it up to put the fan and pulley on the rotor shaft properly as they don't come provided, so you might as well poke around and make sure physically.
I just replaced the drivers side alternator in my M1008A1, err, sort of.
Back story
At some point in it's life, the drivers side alternator was replaced with a brand new (as in a few years newer than original) alt. Correct part number, but clearly a much newer casting. Then, it looks like the alt was hacked up a bit. It worked OK though.
Last Fall I took it apart to freshen it with parts from CUCV Electric. Well, I knew something was up when I looked at the rotor winding. It clearly had been overheated (over current) at some point. Not having the time to deal with it then I decided to button it back up. Hey, the brushes were barely worn. I figured I could go with it until it got warmer in the Spring and I could figure out what to do to it then.
Well, my cousin Murphy said no to my plans. One night on the way home from a troop meeting I heard a pop, headlights dimmed, and Gen 1 light came on all bright and shiney like. I took the alternator apart to find the rotor was now open. Clearly, the over current she suffered in the past had taken it's toll.
So, instead of buying a new rotor for about $120 (cheapest I could find). I decided to pick up a Wilson. Refurbed in Mexico. Heeding the concerns I read here about them not being properly rebuilt, isolated ground and all, my plan was to scavenge the good bits from the Wilson and rebuild the original. Success on this front.
What did I find out about the Wilson?
Well, when I got it apart, it was clear that this was more of a refresh than a rebuild, and certainly not a re-manufacture. It was tested and had a cert in the box that "proved" it was good. But, corners were cut.
The good
New bearings
Clean housing (mostly)
New battery and "r" terminals
New brushes (but one of them was cracked near the tip)
It was isolated ground, sort of.
New hardware (mostly) was used
Nice packaging
The OK (functional but re-used components)
Voltage Reg
Diode Trio
Rectifier (made in China sticker)
Capacitor
Brush Holder
Stator (expected this)
Rotor (expected this, out of a cadi and has an SAE thread, but aside from that appears identical to the original)
Front Housing helicoiled to SAE equivalent (not a bad job, and they provided a bolt, but would have been better if made metric as original)
The Bad
Insulating washers for the rectifier weren't "right". The correct pieces are fairly flush, these were a little too thick.
The negative terminal is now a large head screw. It should be OK, but clearly a lower cost option than the "proper" negative terminal.
The insulator for the negative terminal is a hodge podge of fiber washers (not correct thickness as noted above) and a small section of vinyl tubing for the through case insulator.
So, I think the Wilson alternator would work. But given the fact that some of the more failure prone items weren't replaced, coupled with the improvised hardware, I'm not sure about longevity. Would I buy one again given my circumstances? Sure. Got it mail order for about $150. I have a lot of spare parts now, and my drivers side alt is functioning just fine again. Overall I spent less going this route than if I had replaced the failed parts with new. And, since I did the re-build, I am certain of the job.
I hope this helps others.
![IMG_0082[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/284/284191-e185d5ca41e24604e9bc600f2d4433a8.jpg "IMG_0082[1].jpg")
![IMG_0083[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/284/284192-a0b5d8486c0b8ad48e944ab44d1a87f4.jpg "IMG_0083[1].jpg")
