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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

cucvrus

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GunnyM1009 said:
Pulled the leaky heater core out. Looks to be the original so I'm going to have it rebuilt. I hear horror stories about the aluminum ones all the time. Also discovered an entire wife beater/under shirt and a pack of instant coffee in my heater box.
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Just get a new one. I never had any issues with the aluminum ones. If you secure them tight in the heater box and make sure you have the area clean you are golden. Getting a heater core rebuilt is not very cost effective. My personal experience has been that the aluminum ones seem to throw more heat. But using a few tweaks in the brackets and getting the flappers sealed and operational again are the key to success. Be Safe and Keep up the good work. My Mule M1009 had a heater front and back when I first started driving it. I had 3rd row seating. I could dry clothing in the back of that M1009. The rear heater and 3rd row seat were harvested from a diesel Suburban I bought for parts. I wired a switch so the kids could control the heat from the seating area. Also isolate the steel brackets that will make contact with the heater core.
 
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GunnyM1009

GunnyM1009

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Roanoke/Alabama
cucvrus said:
Just get a new one. I never had any issues with the aluminum ones. If you secure them tight in the heater box and make sure you have the area clean you are golden. Getting a heater core rebuilt is not very cost effective. My personal experience has been that the aluminum ones seem to throw more heat. But using a few tweaks in the brackets and getting the flappers sealed and operational again are the key to success. Be Safe and Keep up the good work. My Mule M1009 had a heater front and back when I first started driving it. I had 3rd row seating. I could dry clothing in the back of that M1009. The rear heater and 3rd row seat were harvested from a diesel Suburban I bought for parts. I wired a switch so the kids could control the heat from the seating area. Also isolate the steel brackets that will make contact with the heater core.
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As many of these as you have worked on you have a lot more experience than I do. So I'll take your word on it and give the aluminum ones a go. Appreciate the advice.
 
D

dochunt

New member
3
4
3
Location
New Mexico
Changed all fluids and filters depite it having 32k original miles, installed spartan locker in the dana 60 and all new hub bearings w/new grease.
Greased entire chassis.
Put 4 new mud type tires 235/85/16.
Changed the fan clutch and ordered a rebuild kit for the isolated alternator (duals on this model) because the light is on and it had a battery tender on the rear battery only.
Put on a spare CUCV bumper and grill guard off another CUCV.

Need to change the drivers side motor mount, $9, and probably an hour or less to do.
 
LT67

LT67

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Bowdon, GA
cucvrus said:
Looks like you used a spray can. Did you?
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Yup... we're not trying to win a beauty contest here lol

The door in the pic was white, so I decided to throw a greenish gray primer on it. The driver's side door is from a M1010 and still has the carc green w/camo. Going to leave that one as is...

**the doors that are on the 86 M1008 are civi doors with the yuge towing mirrors..... and the driver's side door is cracked beyond repair. Time to go ahead and get them swapped out.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
LT67 said:
Yup... we're not trying to win a beauty contest here lol

The door in the pic was white, so I decided to throw a greenish gray primer on it. The driver's side door is from a M1010 and still has the carc green w/camo. Going to leave that one as is...

**the doors that are on the 86 M1008 are civi doors with the yuge towing mirrors..... and the driver's side door is cracked beyond repair. Time to go ahead and get them swapped out.
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OK. Do yourself a huge favor. If you have an air compressor. Go to Harbor Freight and buy a paint gun. $20. Now get some water base paint in the OD green. Sand the door lightly and paint it with the pray gun. It covers great and cleans up with water. It lasts a long time and it is simple to repaint with the latex. But don't ever try and paint chemical based paint over the latex. Good Luck. Spray cans can't put out an even fan and they are hard to get coverage. There is about 12 ounces of paint in a spray can and 2-4 ounces go into vapor mist. I am just trying to help. It ends up costing less in the end to do right the first time. Be safe.
 
LT67

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
cucvrus said:
OK. Do yourself a huge favor. If you have an air compressor. Go to Harbor Freight and buy a paint gun. $20. Now get some water base paint in the OD green. Sand the door lightly and paint it with the pray gun. It covers great and cleans up with water. It lasts a long time and it is simple to repaint with the latex. But don't ever try and paint chemical based paint over the latex. Good Luck. Spray cans can't put out an even fan and they are hard to get coverage. There is about 12 ounces of paint in a spray can and 2-4 ounces go into vapor mist. I am just trying to help. It ends up costing less in the end to do right the first time. Be safe.
Click to expand...
It's already fugly, soo.. lol

I have a compressor and I'll keep that in mind, thx for the tip
 

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Rutjes

Rutjes

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Amersfoort, The Netherlands
I've been slowly piecing together parts to swap the 14 Bolt rear axle with a Dana 70HD (dually) to run HMMWV rims without spacers. I might have to scrap that idea.

I had already exchanged the hubs for the 14 Bolt hubs so they don't stick out from the rims and installed disc brake conversion brackets. Today I test fitted the brake calipers I received last week and started taking measurements to figure out what rotors to use or get a weld on mounting flange.

But, then I decided to check the width of the axle like this. It's too wide. 208.5cm where as the widest part of the truck is 202.2cm. The rims will stick out 3,15cm. With tires mounted it will be more. 3cm is allowed at MOT.

Not sure what to do now. I don't like fender flares. Might go back to the 14 Bolt and order a set of disc brake conversion brackets for that.

IMG-20210728-WA0002.jpeg
 
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