Salty dog
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Pictures are cheap and would make the post so much betterOnly just bought it last Sunday, M1009
Changed all the fluids, belts and replaced the broken headlight and tail light.
Attacking the rusted out wheel wells and rocker panels when new parts arrive but until then the small bits of rust here and there.
I have no dash or instrument panel. I have the spedometer (no workie) and the fuel gauge (seems to work, at least it goes down as I test drive around the property.)
New headlight show up in two days, Ill keep that in mind WednesdayPictures are cheap and would make the post so much better![]()
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.While I paitently await the arrival of the new headlight assembly, I decided to attack the rust spots. The major bits (such as wheel wells and rocker panels) will just be replaced in the future.
Wire wheel followed up with 80 grit sandpaper and rust converter to get all the rust out, then bondo and self etching primer followed up with some rustoleum battle rattle.
Not too concerned how the paint job looks as she will be getting covered in Rapor liner down the road.
As a side note, any ideas on how to handle those cracks near the corners? I know Ill have to get the rust inside the tailgate but how should I close those holes...
I'd start with removing the paint around the crack to see how much is crack and how much is rust. My guess is rust then I would grind that crack until you have clean metal, shape another piece of metal same thickness as the hole you created and tack weld it shut being careful not to overheat it (warp). Then cover it with bondo sand and paint.While I paitently await the arrival of the new headlight assembly, I decided to attack the rust spots. The major bits (such as wheel wells and rocker panels) will just be replaced in the future.
Wire wheel followed up with 80 grit sandpaper and rust converter to get all the rust out, then bondo and self etching primer followed up with some rustoleum battle rattle.
Not too concerned how the paint job looks as she will be getting covered in Rapor liner down the road.
As a side note, any ideas on how to handle those cracks near the corners? I know Ill have to get the rust inside the tailgate but how should I close those holes...
Ill probably end up taking it to someone... the more I grind out the rust the more I find stuff like this. The paint is just to keep the fresh metal safe until I figure out if I want to chance fixing it myself, and investing in a MIG.I'd start with removing the paint around the crack to see how much is crack and how much is rust. My guess is rust then I would grind that crack until you have clean metal, shape another piece of metal same thickness as the hole you created and tack weld it shut being careful not to overheat it (warp). Then cover it with bondo sand and paint.
Invest in the welder, plenty of youtube on how to use it well. Body work is expensive and no guarantee it was done right. Plus a welder can be used for so much more.Ill probably end up taking it to someone... the more I grind out the rust the more I find stuff like this. The paint is just to keep the fresh metal safe until I figure out if I want to chance fixing it myself, and investing in a MIG.
On the bright side, I have a drain to easily hose out the interior lol
Remove the glove compartment, screws on the bottom of the hinge. Disconnect the draft door cables and heater hoses. Then remove the nuts on the firewall (4 IIRC).Windshield fogging up on defrost.... slight coolant smell.....
Might be time to have a look at the heater core.
How much work is involved in getting at that thing? Are new cores even available?
Ordered the core just now. NAPA has it for $50 and RockAuto has it for $42. I was going to go NAPA since they're local but their projected delivery date was later; so why spend more?Remove the glove compartment, screws on the bottom of the hinge. Disconnect the draft door cables and heater hoses. Then remove the nuts on the firewall (4 IIRC).
There is a screw joining the heater box to defrost plenum, remove this and the box should come out. If you have the M8 alarm bracket, it may need to be removed.
Clean it out good, use high temperature HVAC foam tape to seal the new core, replacement cores can leak air.
I've taken pics on the sealing the new cores so all the air goes through the fins. I had replaced the seal on my RV rooftop AC and had leftover foam sealing materials. Plus I always have aluminum foil tape.Ordered the core just now. NAPA has it for $50 and RockAuto has it for $42. I was going to go NAPA since they're local but their projected delivery date was later; so why spend more?
I love the smell of those! Best interior everI installed king ranch rear bench seats in my M1031. I used the original seat bottom as a base to mount the Ford seats.View attachment 844157
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