Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
You also really should download the TMs and read the schematics, just guessing as you go is a good way to spend allot more money.
That large "red" wire goes to the 28V output terminal on the alt itself.
It is perfectly normal for the trans light to be on when the engine is not running but the...
As I said earlier it is common to see a higher ohm reading such as you are getting from pin A to the B+ terminal, 3 ohms is close enough.
The measurement from A to D is also close enough, what do you get when you touch the red and black meter leads together? I would suspect it will not be zero...
Yes, take mrfarb advice as there are allot of chicom knock off parts out there for the HMMWV, some look very convincing and all chicom electrical parts are crap.
If you are reading 25V then the alt is not making anything, that is just the battery voltage.
99% of the time it is a regulator, the alternators are RARELY the problem, but of course you want to troubleshoot before spending money, throwing parts at a problem is never the answer.
You should have...
Welcome to the SS forums, yep that is TOO high, it is normal to see 0V on the 14V tap unless it is connected to the 12V connection on the batteries.
Here is the troubleshooting guide.
There are two 12V feeds to the TCM, one is hot all the time and the other is supplied by the relay, and yes that relay has a 24V coil to switch the 12V
Most need ALLOT of help, they are for the most part junk with some potential, expect to spend as much to get one fully operational as the original cost and then feel very lucky if it doesn't.