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The motor mounts for the early 6.2L engines (up through '83, I believe) are the same as the 5.7L/350ci gasser motor mounts. Our CUCVs use these smaller mounts. Later 6.2L's (possibly '84 onward) use a larger mount, closer to the 7.4L/454ci mounts.

Any contact info for this company?

Anyone have an online source for the rubber seal on the OE-style, brass valve stems? Nearest truck stop with a decent parts supply house is ~150 miles round trip, so I'm good with paying shipping costs.

Good call! Mine looked metal at first, but further inspection shows you are spot-on.

There's no plastic on my bracket or the attached rod... Perhaps the seller broke the end/clip on the TV cable, rather than the bracket? I'll let other 700R4 veterans confirm.

Yessir! There's a few of us in town, but not all are members (or active members) here on SteelSoldiers.

Welcome, from 7 miles down the highway! :D

The lower ratio in 1st-gear is also a perk.

Type: M725, Ambulance Serial: 11340 Registration: 3F2497 NSN: 2310009216369 Purchase Location: Private-party sale in NM Unit Markings: None visible Thank you again, CARNAC!

I think all of the above posts are good advice. I'll be installing an engine block heater in my M1008 soon, and plan on doing exactly what Jeremy and Bruce are describing: drain the coolant from the radiator, then fill the radiator with distilled water, circulate, drain the radiator again...

To piggyback on this idea, I replaced mine with the following from McMaster-Carr: Viton O-Rings, 10mm Inside Diameter, 2.5mm Width

The transmission currently mounted to my M1008 has an ear broken off in a similar manner. As was mentioned above, I'd just use a suitable washer on that bolt when you reinstall it... Replace the transmission later.

Wayne's looks like a HMMWV engine bracket... Thoughts?

Interesting! I thought they'd be similar/same to the civilian J-code models, but there I go assume'ing... :oops: After looking over my truck and parts engine, I agree, and think that the bracket could probably be made flat between the mounting holes for CUCV engines.

I'd be interested in a single unit as soon as they're available, pending the status of my piggy bank. IMO, I'd stick to copying the civilian design, as that is what properly fits the CUCVs.

I've towed a U-Haul car hauler loaded with two M116A2E1 trailers on a pintle riser plate from Barstow, CA to central New Mexico with no ill effects or damage to the riser... Hitch was installed on a 3rd-generation Toyota 4Runner, so your receiver can't get much lower than mine! :D I highly...

I believe these are 3/8" NPT, judging by the ~0.66x" OD of the threads.

Here's some cell phone photos I snapped a few minutes ago. First photo is overall length of the oil dipstick. I measured end-to-add as ~1-3/4", and end-to-full as ~2-7/16", give or take 1/32" of accuracy. ...

I was wondering who picked those up... How bad is the rust on the M1008? Looked like a good pair of trucks, either way. [thumbzup]

The feed wire to the brake light switch is an 18-gauge orange wire (Circuit-140) and goes directly from the brake light switch to the fuse block position labeled "Stop Lights" in the diagram that I've attached below. From there it becomes a 12-gauge orange wire (Circuit-914) and heads up to the...