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If you read carefully, you'll realize Doghead is being funny...
I don't think you can do this on a TH400. The only transmissions I know this works on are old Chrysler Torqueflights with the oil pump on the output shaft. Then the transmission is making pressure which will spin the torque...
I think he's talking about the reducer box between the transmission gear and speedo cable dying. I'd say the cable is binding, but rather than replace the box again, I'd ditch it and get the proper transmission gears and replace them. That box is only so the military needed to carry only one...
The hub itself probably doesn't need to be replaced since it's just a big chunk of iron that holds the bearings. They're quite spendy and don't wear so I wouldn't bother with that expense. The lockouts are probably ok if they work, just give them a good cleaning.
You've nailed everything on...
Not completely true. His insurance company owes you a 'like replacement' of your vehicle. That means similar condition, mileage, and options list, or a check for the value of same. They cannot give you just any 1984 Blazer, or 'Blue Book' value for one.
This is why I always recommend that...
Overthinking it. The ECM controls the governor attached to the throttle. No electronic controls of the engine directly.
I have the TMs for the 1031 SECM. PM me with your email and I'll send them to you.
Later,
Joe
Ok, since there's a lot of chatter here, I'll give you my reasoning and it doesn't matter how old the batteries are.
If your voltage is 24 at the GPR with it open, then you are getting proper voltage from the batteries.
If your voltage is 12 at the glow plugs with the GPR closed, the resistor...
Ok, you're chasing a problem that might be a problem, might not.
Have you checked the cold advance on the pump, and the temp sensor for the cold advance on the passenger cylinder head? If those aren't working, you're going to be making blue/black smoke and poor idle until it gets some heat...
Sounds like the circuit breaker in the headlight switch failed. Common problem. Grab another from any parts store.
If that doesn't work, check the dimmer switch on the column. Might want to click it a couple of times first and see if it stuck between modes.
Later,
Joe
Yes, check your tank return, but I'll bet your tank select switch is either gummed up between positions or plugged. Try bypassing it with a piece of hose as a temp fix.
The starter relay was not necessary on civilian trucks because it is only there to isolate the 24V solenoid from the 12V system. You can bypass it completely on a 12V conversion by connecting the lead from the key to the lead to the starter (Purple and purple/white IIRC)
The entire assembly, the fittings point a different direction.
The actual hoses are different too I think, it's just the end that bolts to the bed that's the same (I think). Again, pull the left and right fillers off the gas truck and see if they're the same. If they are, then you can use the...
My 1985 Chevy dealer parts manual shows only two part numbers for the tanks, a 16 gal and a 20 gal. No separate part number for left and right or gas and diesel. The only thing that's different is the fuel level sensor. These are gas and diesel in addition to side specific.
I am trying to...